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Knew of him from the forums, and had a chance to wheel with him at Badlands years ago. He was a pretty cool guy.

Proved that you don't have to spend all morning detailing to be the most popular ride at Cars and Coffee!

Another option would be trading down to a JL Rubicon (or even a lower trim). Still nice truck but keeping it more modern. I only offer that since you said you are a Jeep guy

Compared to the KO, I agree. I can say the KM is quieter and last longer than a lot of other AT tires I've had over the years. I guess my point is, you're not giving up much by going the KM route.

I don't have direct experience with the KO3, but I have had KM2 and KM3s. The KM3s are such a well engineered tire, if you ever plan on offroading at all, I don't really see the point of even considering the KO3. I'd just go straight to the KM3. Just my opinion.

I always enjoyed this thread, seeing what everyone else was up to with their H3. It kind of died out. I'll try to revive it. Camping this weekend. It rained off and on, so I used the trailer instead of the roof top tent. Still had fun and splashed around in the mud on the trails a little

Just stay away from Dorman. I made that mistake once. I would probably go with the Delphi as well. They were recently acquired by Borg Warner, and I think they are probably one of the best aftermarket parts manufacturers.

My daughter has the H3 right now, so I can't take a picture of it installed, but here is an info page. Bussman, Littlefuse, and dozens of Amazon/eBay vendors have them...

Yes, very easily using an Add-a-Circuit fuse tap. Install it in any keyed fuse position, and run the jumper to the load side of the cig lighter circuit. I did this in my wife's H3 so she could use a GPS speedometer without it being on when not being driven.

Did not remove diff or CVs, but I can confirm over a 2500 mile trip, you will gain exactly 0.0mpg.

I had that years ago and it turned out to be a loose intake manifold. It was frustrating trying to track down, so I wish you luck finding the issue quickly.

Can you cut the plastic away from around the screw and then rebuild it with a spacer and epoxy after you get it out? That's probably what I would try.

They are incandescent. You can solder a new one in.

No. Those bulbs are soldered to the board. I have one out too.

I wouldn't dump any more money in it. If it was a car that you loved or had some other attachments to, then sure. I gather that's probably not your situation so I'd sell it. You put more in it, you're just going to be even more pissed with the next thing that goes wrong. Just my thoughts.

GM temperature gauges have never been linear, at least not one I have ever encountered. As an example, you say 1/2 is 210 on yours. Two of mine, 1/2 is exactly 190. If it's not in the red, don't sweat it.

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PN 11588542

It's called a pinch bolt. I have one at home and will get you the P/N when I get home, however I do not believe it is still available. I have used regular box store bolts, however it seems in my opinion they do not wear as well as OEM. I just replaced them again last month and bought bolts...

If you keep it long enough, you'll probably end up needing a new blower resistor. Right now, Rock Auto has genuine GM resistors for a price that has to be a typo. I ordered a replacement and a couple spares to put on the shelf, and can confirm it is the right part. No idea why it's so cheap...