Performance, HP and MPG upgrades

[06 H3]

5.13s aren't available for the front but they are for the rear. So a solid axle is necessary for that or a custom ifs centersection like bebe. Atvspeed4 is currently taking a 10 bolt rear (similar to the H3 rear axle) and chopping it up and trying to do a bolt in application for the front. The concept is like bebes minus all the custom work of a arms sub frames steering racks etc.

The idea is great and I'm interested. The goal is to bolt in like a stock aam7 would that all of us average joes are currently running. The pros is regear and stronger front diff due to a bigger ring gear and less issues with deflection and movement the stock one sees.

 

[H32NV]

what is the approximate cost of the rear end gears, and any idea on the total cost of doing the front end with a bolt-in unit?

 

[06 H3]

The cost of rear end gears are only a couple hundred bucks. Gears really aren't too expensive. IIRC, my brother spent 300 bucks on quality gears for front and rear combined on his JK. The installation is what makes it expensive. Many avoid installation themselves because if your backlash is off a hair and I mean tenths of an inch you can do damage to the diff and gears. I did the installation once with my buddy who is a mechanic and had the tools. He taught me and its not bad. I would do it again if I owned the tools. I disassembled my brothers gears and hauled the axle to the shop and had a guy install them, it was 200-300 bucks. A good deal IMO is 1k for front and rear gears installed out the door everything included.

The diff up front would probably be around 2-3k which in reality isn't bad for a custom built axle! I mean the POS axles we have cost 1200-1800 for a cast iron one with a locker. For a bit more you will never have to worry about destroying them they way we do now. Then you can add RCV half shafts to really have a complete beefed up front axle assembly.

You can do them slowly to save money. Like running the beefed up front diff with 4.56s for a while then get 5.13s front and rear later.

Right now atvspeed4s axle build is still in the works who knows what challenges and problems may come up but ill be optimistic and say it will work lol

 

[rsc]

The cost of rear end gears are only a couple hundred bucks. Gears really aren't too expensive. IIRC, my brother spent 300 bucks on quality gears for front and rear combined on his JK. The installation is what makes it expensive. Many avoid installation themselves because if your backlash is off a hair and I mean tenths of an inch you can do damage to the diff and gears. I did the installation once with my buddy who is a mechanic and had the tools. He taught me and its not bad. I would do it again if I owned the tools. I disassembled my brothers gears and hauled the axle to the shop and had a guy install them, it was 200-300 bucks. A good deal IMO is 1k for front and rear gears installed out the door everything included.

The diff up front would probably be around 2-3k which in reality isn't bad for a custom built axle! I mean the POS axles we have cost 1200-1800 for a cast iron one with a locker. For a bit more you will never have to worry about destroying them they way we do now. Then you can add RCV half shafts to really have a complete beefed up front axle assembly.

You can do them slowly to save money. Like running the beefed up front diff with 4.56s for a while then get 5.13s front and rear later.

Right now atvspeed4s axle build is still in the works who knows what challenges and problems may come up but ill be optimistic and say it will work lol

I like the future mods listed in your signature. I would love to run 37's with 5.13 gears on a stronger front axle. I just don't want to buy new tires in a couple of months and not have an upgrade show up for the front leaving me stuck with huge tires I can't use on the highway. I don't think a PCM tune, eFan and header will quite be the same performance-wise as regearing alone (and I'll probably do those anyway after doing the gears! )

 

[06 H3]

thanks, I am trying to stay as stock as possible or hummer related as possible. I did the spring over using stock H3 springs to stay hummer related, great flex and clearance. The front end is all factory with the rancho kit. Now I want to do the front diff upgrade with H3 shafts but use the RCV upgraded shafts or the H2 shafts like bebe. which keeps it hummer. I wanted to do the diff upgrade myself but I dont have the machines or a shop to do them for me.

The regear is worth its weight in gold, It can make up for the lack of power and more importantly put the engine back in its powerband and lessen the stress on the motor and trans. I would of done a regear a long time ago if we had that option.

I think clearance and strength is the biggest issue with the H3. The spring over is amazing and so is the rancho kit. Now if I beef up the front end and get a locker and work on getting a tad more flex in the front I think this setup will kick ass (it already does even without the 4:1)

 

[Ron46]

I have two questions regarding the gears, what are the gear ratios of non adventure h3s (2009) and what would happen if you ran 2 different sets of gears? If a lot of people would be interested, what about trying to get a bunch of 5.13s for the front manufactured from a machine shop, it might be too far out of reach.

 

[06 H3]

There is no difference from adv and non adv gears in the differentials, the only difference is the transfer case gearing.

You can't run two different gear ratios because your drivetrain will literally blow up well not blow up but be destroyed because the front is working differently then the rear. The 5.13s can be made or possibly not. 4speed said it isn't possible from an engineering standpoint as there isn't enough teeth on such a small ring gear but the Toyota 7.5 in ring gear has a 5.29 gear available so it may be possible but the higher gear numerically the weaker the ring and pinion are and then you increase the chance of damage. The bigger the ring gear the less you need to worry about going to higher numerical ratios

 

[4speedfunk]

Re-gearing an H3 (other than 4.10s or 4.56s) is a major undertaking. There are plenty of options for the rear diff...its been around for 30 years or so. But, the front diff is very small and a relative new-comer, and there is not really any options for re-gearing it (other than what the factory offers). Since both axles need to have matching gear ratios, the lack of front axle gearing options is what the real problem is. Even if lower gears were available for the front axle, I would not recommend them do to the very small ring gear diameter and the hefty 5500lb anchor it needs to move. I'm running 5.13s and 37" tires but, this requires a complete front axle swap. I chose a solid axle from a 70s-era chevy truck, and like the stock H3 rear axle...there are plenty of gearing options available for it. Unfortunately...this type of swap is neither cheap or easy compared to a simple gear change.

As far as performance? I will flat-out destroy a stock 5-cyl H3 in a drag race. Its hard to describe the difference lower gears make...but they basically put the RPM range of the motor back to where it needs to be. The 5-cyl likes to rev and it doesn't have much low-end grunt, so gearing is more critical than it is on traditional V8-powered trucks. Not only is cruising RPM raised back close to stock...but the shift points come fast and hard. Most of us run 35" tires and they really make the 5-cyl. struggle, especially on the highway. Its not the weight or the width of the tires...its the larger diameter that is reducing your effective gear ratio. Its amazing how much we H3 owners get used to lugging around our H3's with big tires. We bolt em on, and we're so impressed with the extra ground clearance and aggressive looks...that over time we just get used to it. But if you want a reminder to see what you're missing...just bolt your stock tires back on! Usually it hits you like sledge-hammer how much power those big tires are costing you! Ultimately...the goal is to get all the benefits of larger tires, without sacrificing the power & torque it takes to drive them. And unfortunately for the H3...there are no options to do this without dropping $5000 to $10,000 for an axle swap. So for now...you're stuck with a Cold-Air Intake, a computer tune, and maybe a header/exhaust system. BTW I would never attempt to add a super or turbo charger to a GM 5-cylinder...that's just silly.

As far as MPG upgrade? I'll just pretend I didn't see that.

 

[machineguneddie]

I have to say that with all my upgrades...
K&N filter & pipe but modded and used original air box
Resonator delete
Pulstar plugs
Super Sparkz
pcmforless tune

The only performance I can report is speed and power. I think my milage actually went down a bit. I guess I don't mind I like power better than milage.
Now let me tell you, when I use premium gas I get both more power and better fuel milage. So I use it whenever I can. Hopefully gas prices stay down and keep going that way.

Its nice having an I5 with balls




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[4speedfunk]

I'm running an AirDoc, Fram Filter, PCM4Less tune also. All good mods. I wouldn't say it has "balls" however. Its more like maybe half of one ball.

 

[JonBishop]

I have to say that with all my upgrades...
K&N filter & pipe but modded and used original air box
Resonator delete
Pulstar plugs
Super Sparkz
pcmforless tune

The only performance I can report is speed and power. I think my milage actually went down a bit. I guess I don't mind I like power better than milage.
Now let me tell you, when I use premium gas I get both more power and better fuel milage. So I use it whenever I can. Hopefully gas prices stay down and keep going that way.

Its nice having an I5 with balls




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Using Tapatalk 2

when you did the resonator delete, did u notice a difference?... im thinking bout doing it, but dont know where it is for one... and dont know if itll help at all....

 

[H32NV]

when you did the resonator delete, did u notice a difference?... im thinking bout doing it, but dont know where it is for one... and dont know if itll help at all....

X2


And, has anyone reported back with actual Dyno numbers to support these mods? I assume that they are all good for something, but we all know that "advertised" HP gains are typically overstated. It'd be nice to know apples-to-apples you know?

 

[telemike]

I think reprogramming shift shift points makes a big difference

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[machineguneddie]

I did the res delete and K&N filter and pipe at the same time plus cleaned the throttle body so no single thing stood out but the increased HP and the awesome sound from the K&N filter before I 'replaced their partition with my original air box.
The resonator is that big ugly black thing that sits ontop of your engine with the air hose going in one side and a short one coming out the other going into the throttle body. I just replaced it with a piece of PVC and some big ass rubber connectors and hose clamps. I painted it black and threaded a brass nipple into the back side of it for the vacuum hose that went into the resonator and now it looks like another K&N part.
(It doesn't sound as cool with the original air box back in it)



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[H32NV]

Just did the Pulstar upgrade and took my H3 out mudding in Jerome, AZ for the weekend. I can say that I actually notice a few HP gain, my trip back up the steep hill to flagstaff on I-17 went smoother than it usually does. This may be because my Delco iridium plugs had about 40k on them, and the new Pulstar's are just that... new. We'll see what it looks like over time, but I'm seeing a lot of comments on Amazon with people complaining about the Pulstar's degradation in performance after about 8,000miles. $0.02.

 

[TheGunnyRet]

Castrol Edge 5w30 Synthetic Oil
S+B Universal Filter: FL ID 3.5,
Top OD 5.25, Element Height 8,
End Cap: SS PS, Blue Oil, 8ply
R1137
Fitch Fuel Cayalyst P/N F3624
BRISK # LOR19LGS

I get 20mpg on a good long trip at 68-70 mph on cruise control. My Avg is 17 mpg.Its just hard to get a Brick to go thru the air efficiently.
When I had my H3T Alpha I got 15 mpg around town and 20 on a trip.

 

[JonBishop]

im changing out my spark plugs in about a month, you notice any differnce with those brisk plugs?... im runnning the pulsters right now and am pretty satisfied with them....

 

[TheGunnyRet]

im changing out my spark plugs in about a month, you notice any differnce with those brisk plugs?... im runnning the pulsters right now and am pretty satisfied with them....

I got the Brisk because they're silver core plugs like Beru, iridium has a higher resistance to current flow, copper and silver are the best conductors. Can't say I feel a seat of the pants thing with the H3 due to the type vehicle/engine, just slightly better mpg. Now on a V8 you might notice a difference.

 

[Michro]

Soo after spending a few minutes reading this thread, I will be picking up some Pulstar plugs and taking out my TBS. Thanks everyone. PCM upgrade is on the wish list.

 

[nelly27281]

Its nice having an I5 with balls

Best one... completely agree...

 

[nelly27281]

I'm running an AirDoc, Fram Filter, PCM4Less tune also. All good mods. I wouldn't say it has "balls" however. Its more like maybe half of one ball.

:lmfao:

 

[TheGunnyRet]

Did the research on the Pulstar or at least what is written in the digital world, and as I noted iridium and nickel have a higher resistance. I still can’t see the capacitance action of storing that amount of energy for that blink of a period. E3 has a perfected technology as well but don’t have any plugs for the H3/I5. You have Torque Master Sparkplugs which are similar to the Brisk. I had a set made a long long time ago for my Suzuki Sprint 3cyl turbo. A good old set of copper core Autolites do good job too. As always its buyer preference, but I have never felt any seat of the pants results with just plugs, just numbers in MPG and Dyno results. If you could upgrade the Coil Pack with the plugs you might get that seat of the pant results.

 

[chad]

How are the Bosch spark plugs? I got 40 bucks to spend at autozone and figure new plugs wouldn't be bad. I got 80k miles on it now, is it a good time to replace them or do they got more life?

 

[TheGunnyRet]

Bosch are good, I have used them before both the 2 and 4 electrode. Don't forget the antiseize compound.

 

[chad]

Is 80k miles time for new plugs and should I get the two or four electrode?