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H3T Level or Not Level

TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Well i was wondering if yall can tell if my truck is level or not... Still trying to decide if i wanna go with 35" or lift and go 37"... Still trying to do some studying. My truck already looks level but not sure if it was done when i bought it... What do yall think????
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Tried to give yall some angles!!
 
08SolarFlareH3

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
Already looks leveled. What's it measure from the bottom of the fender to the center of the hub? Factory is about 22.5" and my guess is yours will measure around 23.5-24".


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*edit,
Going to be hard to get an accurate measurement with the E&G fender flares on because they hang down.
 
Last edited:
Portager

Portager

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1,506
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Silverado
I know from experience 35" tires will degrade your acceleration and gas mileage. You'll need a PCM tune to correct the spedometer and restore the shift points. I'm quessing 37" will be much worse for performance and breakage off road.

If you take it off road with 35" tires they will remove the E&G fender flares for you quite quickly.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Portager said:
I know from experience 35" tires will degrade your acceleration and gas mileage. You'll need a PCM tune to correct the spedometer and restore the shift points. I'm quessing 37" will be much worse for performance and breakage off road.

If you take it off road with 35" tires they will remove the E&G fender flares for you quite quickly.
Click to expand...

Isn't there a sponsor who does PCM tunes??
Can i not change my shift points with my superchips programmer?
Last if i lift and just go 35" will i still have the issue with my flares and/or will a 1" body lift help???
 
08SolarFlareH3

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
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2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
As I expected, it's already been leveled. Even 24" is a bit high. Hunner has a thread about slightly trimming the E&G fender flares to help clear 35s off road on full stuff.


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TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
08SolarFlareH3 said:
As I expected, it's already been leveled. Even 24" is a bit high. Hunner has a thread about slightly trimming the E&G fender flares to help clear 35s off road on full stuff.


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Click to expand...

Awesome! Im goin to go look for it now!! Should i drop it lower then 24"? Ride is stiff but doesn't bother me.. Bothers my wife more then me..
 
Hans3T

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
You're definitely sitting leveled. If you go with the lift and 37s, you'll be the first H3T with E&Gs to do it. You may havge to trim, but with another 4", maybe not. Another guy did 37s on a lifted T with no problem if I recall correctly.

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TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Hans3T said:
You're definitely sitting leveled. If you go with the lift and 37s, you'll be the first H3T with E&Gs to do it. You may havge to trim, but with another 4", maybe not. Another guy did 37s on a lifted T with no problem if I recall correctly.

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Click to expand...

Awesome!! Now I'm excited!! I saw u were still having some sagging issues on ur backend.. Ever figure it out??
 
08SolarFlareH3

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
08SolarFlareH3

08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
Hans3T said:
If you go with the lift and 37s, you'll be the first H3T with E&Gs to do it. You may havge to trim, but with another 4", maybe not.
Click to expand...
You got to remember he is going up 4" but he is also going out a MINIMUM of 1.75" (with aftermarket wheels, closer to 3"). With the wheels sitting out farther, there is a better chance of the tires coming into contact with the flares.
 
Portager

Portager

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Silverado
Solar is correct. The key to keeping the E&G's on off road is stock backspace. Mine got ripped off with 305/70R16 (33") wheels and AR wheels with 4.93" backspace. With the 35" wheels and lots of trimming they might stay on. With 1.75" spacers and a 4" lift I don't know, but my money is no.
 
Hans3T

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
08SolarFlareH3 said:
You got to remember he is going up 4" but he is also going out a MINIMUM of 1.75" (with aftermarket wheels, closer to 3"). With the wheels sitting out farther, there is a better chance of the tires coming into contact with the flares.
Click to expand...

Ahhh... Touchee.

Mayhaps 35"s are a better choice if you/we want to keep our flares on.
 
reaper

reaper

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Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
With the Rancho lift you're probably fine with the flares. You really need some kind of flares with the lift because your wheels stick out so freaking far. That's one thing a lot of people hate about the lift, your wheels will now kick up tons of debris on your sides, especially the side windows in the snow. I have 4" flare extensions I put on last winter that really helps out.

With the lift: your tie rod andles are straight across on level ground. With only the tbars cranked: you change those angles pretty dramatically and weaken the front end. If you have the funds, the lift does WONDERS in my non-humble opinion. So glad I lifted mine.

If you do mostly highway driving, I'd stick with 35" tires. But if you get the lift I don't think you'd be sorry you went with 37" tires when you're offroad.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Well i really don't see a difference between Rancho and Tuff Country other than price and bump stops.. I was looking at the tuff country but if yall think the Rancho is going to be better for the flares then i might lean that way and suck it up and pay the price... I would love 37" so thats what im leaning to. Im just going to have to decide about the flares...
 
reaper

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
I think the best way to decide is by looking at another lifted h3... if that's not a possibility, you could call one of us (I have one). We could also take some measurements for you.

If I could do it again, I think I would go for a SOA (spring over axle) during that operation for the rear if you have a competent shop. (See bebe's SOA tech thread... I was just reading it...). I also swapped out the front diff to a locking cast iron one when I was at it and had a shop budget. If you do get the lift, I'd also recommend getting armor under the transmission, the stock lift bars are pretty cheesy and can be replaced with something solid by a good fabricator. (Again, I can send pics if you need... I have a post on this somewhere too.)

If you get the lift... you'll love it. :) Guaranteed.
 
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