Did Jiffylube kill my h3?

[Xscorex]

two weeks ago I took my truck to jiffylube to get a full synthetic oil change. Total cost $115. I always change my own oil but recently moved to an apartment and don't have the space to do it myself. After the oil change I drove 2 miles home. The next morning my oil light came on once the engine got warm and I came to a stop. reving the engine made it go away. I put some oil additive in to thicken the oil and that seemed to solve it. Today however my check engine light came on and my engine was idling so rough I thought my engine was going to lock up. A scan of the codes gave m p0017. A search said dirty oil can do this. Im afraid I paid for synthetic and they put in regular.What do you guys think. Going to do an oil change tonight myself

 

[3Hummers]

I assume you checked the oil level. I have seen people check their oil after a Jiffy Lube type oil change only to find that they were a few quarts short. They sometimes don't get the oil pan nut on tight and you get leakage or even worse they airgun it back on crooked and strip your threads. Might also check the filter to see if it is new.

 

[skeptic]

Could be any number of things, but I don't see how filling with regular oil instead of synthetic will throw a dirty oil code. I'm not even sure if there is a dirty oil sensor, the oil life (change oil light) is calculated, not some sensor. That's not to say they didn't screw something up or do something really stupid like put 30W or tranny fluid in the engine, but I seriously doubt your issues are from putting regular non-synthetic oil in.

 

[Xscorex]

The code is actually a camshaft sensor code. A search of the code on this forum says that old or dirty oil can make the engine throw the code. I thought it sounded weird as well. I checked the oil level and its good.

 

[Best4x4]

I just had to replace the oil pressure sensor on my 07 H3. After I replaced the radiator and took it for a test drive the oil light came on along with Oil being displayed on the dash. Found out after removing the oil pressure sensor to replace it that it had internally failed and was leaking oil out of the sensor. Replaced it with a new sensor, and zero nada zip issues after that.

Not sure I would have slapped an "oil" additive like STP Oil Treatment in the freshly changed synthetic oil.

I'm not a fan of the cheap oil filters used at Jiffy Lube. I prefer K&N Oil Filters, Mobil1, or AC Delco. Even when I couldn't change my own oil (also lived at an apartment) I would take my own filter or even oil to the quick lube place. They'd charge me the same as a cheap oil change, but use my oil and filter.

If you're afraid your engine might be full of crap run some Rotella 5w40 oil thru it with a good quality filter. That oil will certainly clean out any crap you have inside your engine, and I'd check out the oil pressure sensor above the oil filter. Unplug it, and if you see oil inside the plug it's gone bad, or if that's okay it could still be bad or clogged. I paid 39.00 for a new one.

 

[alrock]

I would get that code with old oil, and it would go away with an oil change. Never had it appear with an oil change. I'd say I've had it happen three times with old oil and disappear each time.

Take a look at both sensors, make sure there are no leaks with the o-ring and that the wiring looks good. It could be as straightforward as a sensor failing and needing replacement. Each one is a quick fix.

 

[kilroy]

Sorry to hear you got raped on the price like that. Just had the oil changed in mine yesterday at the dealership and only cost about 35.00, I know many are down on the dealerships but that's cheaper than I can do it at home and if there's a problem later they can't dispute the service history.

 

[Xscorex]

Im changing the oil now and it does appear to be oil leaking at the pressure switch. Where can I get a new one? That would explain the oil pressure light but not the p0017 bad camshaft sensor code.

 

[alrock]

I suspect that the switch is a pretty common part and would be stocked both at the dealership and local parts stores. For the price, I might go OEM just to avoid suspect electronics.

While these two items may not appear to be related, if the switch isn't sending the right data for any reason that could perhaps throw off the timing and give you the P0017 code. It's a guess, but I don't think it's unrealistic. Heck, if dirty oil can throw this code then why couldn't a leaking switch cause misread issues?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

What oil did you run before? how many miles are on your rig? what weight oil did they put in?

 

[Xscorex]

I have 135k on it at 30k the dealer did the new heads. I ran 5w30 full synthetic . I just changed it to 10w 30. A full oil change didnt seem to help anything. It runs a little better not much. I guess the oil sending unit is the first step

 

[Best4x4]

I like OEM parts, but I will not use an OEM radiator on any of my H3's (weak design for the way the transmission cooler is sealed to the radiator vs Silla's design). I bought a BWD Brand Oil Pressure Sensor from Oreilly's, and I've used BWD branded parts in the past with zero issues. Cost was 39.00 and it took no time at all to change out.

To make the job easier I'd grab a 1 1/16 deep socket. Then all you have to do is unplug the sensor, slide on the socket and thru the fender just above the frame you can extend your socket wrench out with 2 extensions and quickly remove it. Some oil will come out, but nothing a rag or drip pan can't handle.

I use Penzoil High Mileage 5w30 oil in my H3's (was using Mobil1 in the Alpha, but I change the oil on it at 3K so I just switched back to dino oil).

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have 135k on it at 30k the dealer did the new heads. I ran 5w30 full synthetic . I just changed it to 10w 30. A full oil change didnt seem to help anything. It runs a little better not much. I guess the oil sending unit is the first step

If you used Pennzoil, non-synthetic (don't know about synth), they use lanolin wax as the base of the oil. If you don't change the oil often, the wax adheres and builds up in the motor to the point where it can literal block the oil passages and kill the motor. The quick way to make that murder happen is to use synthetic oil in a poorly-changed Pennzoil motor - it'll loosen the wax build up, then block the small passages (like the ones in the crank). Bad things happen after that.

As you've had the same vehicle since 30k miles and I presume you've always used synthetic... I doubt it's the problem.

Less likely options:
oil pump is going bad (and the do go bad in LS motors because they're not submerged in oil like in the motor they replaced)
broken or plugged oil pickup

Once you change your oil sender - that might help because the motor may go into limp mode if it's bad (or just not stay running)

it's weird when it started, 99% of the time, it's something directly related to the service - though, without seeing/hearing it - it's hard to tell what it might be.

 

[Xscorex]

Well since I changed the oil yesterday with 10w30 mobil 1 full synthetic I have not seen the oil pressure light come on. I did clean my maf sensor which seemed to help some. I went to Oreillys and got an acdelco pressure unit. When I looked at the old one it had oil leaking from it and oil in and on the wiring plug. Im assuming this is not normal. I had them run my codes and still had p0017 and p0300 which is a misfire. It only appears to be mifiring at idle. Ill lwt you know if changing the pressure switch help

 

[Best4x4]

Have u changed your oem plugs? They're only good for 100k. My oil pressure switch failed the exact same way leaking oil thru the sensor.

 

[Xscorex]

Ok put the new oil pressure unit in and reset the computer. No change. Still rough idle and check engine. I havent changed my plugs so I guess thsts the next step. Im running out of ifeas though

 

[Best4x4]

Replace the plugs if they're still OEM and have more than 100K on them, remove the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner, and also clean the MAF sensor.

Do you still have the "oil" light and "oil" being displayed? That's all that sensor is for. For that misfire fault you either have a worn out plug, bad coil, or wiring.

 

[Kelly@PCMofNC]

It's possible it is just a coincidence...have you disconnected the battery and reconnected it to see if it comes back?

 

[Xscorex]

Check oil light is off. Now all I have is the rough idle. Should I change the coils when I change the spark plugs? Could it be a bad camshaft sensor?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

as was said above MAF sensor cleaner should be your next tune.

do you have a K&N air filter? was it recently re-oiled?

 

[Best4x4]

Since it's just the one cylinder with a misfire I'd pull the plug and inspect it, or if you want move over a coil from another cylinder and see if you get the same misfire fault. If it moves to another cylinder then you have a bad coil. If it stays at the same cylinder you could have a bad coil connector. If once you clean the MAF, throttle body, and make sure the old codes are truly gone like Kelly said. Then yeah u could have bad wiring or sensor to the cam sensors.

Just have to eliminate the possibilities. I do know that some code readers don't fully clear out the codes, just depends on the reader, but with the battery disconnected it should dump everything until it resets after a complete drive cycle.

 

[Xscorex]

I already cleaned the MAF but not the throttle body. No change. Im getting 2 misfire codes but it didnt say which cylinders. I guess i needcto find that out.

 

[Best4x4]

P0300 = general misfire faults, P0301/P0302/P0303/P0304/P0305 are your individual cylinder misfire faults.

I removed the OEM plugs on my wife's 07 with 76K, and they looked okay, but I changed them, quick and easy job along with cleaning the throttle body. OEM plugs are designed for replacement at 100K. My idle smoothed out, and my throttle body was pretty nasty! On my 08 Alpha the throttle body was so dirty it was causing a CEL for throttle position out of sync/incorrect voltage/out of range faults. Cleaned it, reset the fault and it's never come back!

My wife's H3 was in great shape when I bought it, but because my wife will be driving it as a D/D I went nuts on everything. New belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner, oil change, spark plugs, water pump, oil pressure sensor, K&N Air Filter, K&N Oil Filter, Oil Change, radiator, thermostat, transmission fluid, transmission filter, front/rear diff fluids, and I fixed the drivers window switch light bulbs. Next on the list are new speakers (all are blown out rattling or dead altogether), and to replace the OEM 550amp weak battery with a Diehard Platinum 930amp battery, and last but not least change out the transfer case fluid. After all that I expect I won't have to be tooling around on her H3 for a good while lol.

 

[Xscorex]

Ok. Got a new set of plugs and Im going to clean the maf and throttle body tomorrow. Ill post again to update on this. I see a lot of posts on this but no real fixes

 

[Hayden]

It only misfires at low rpms, is it random or in any type of pattern? Mine randomly does it and has for a while. Replaced the plugs and it still does it. Im on to replacing coils as they throw codes


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