Search and Rescue H3 Alpha build

[SuperBuickGuy]

ugh, it sounds like I have a wheel bearing (unit bearing) going out.... squeal in a straight line that I can end by turning the wheel, smell of brake pads in the morning, and some interesting wear on the tire.... I guess the bright side is I'll have nearly a brand new suspension under this thing now.

 

[RamRod]

Let me know when you'd like me to send you some money! pay for that wheel bearing lol


Sent from handheld smoke signal device

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

If anyone wonders why it seems to take forever for me to make a drawing and take it 5 miles from my office, I present this evidence as to what happens to my day.

I started noticing a freon smell coming from my H3 - inside - a week or two ago. As I don't have A/C service equipment, I went to my friend's shop who did and he thought it might be the evaporator... ug, $300 ish plus a boatload of labor to install. Roll forward to yesterday, I'm looking where the lines go into the firewall and, because we put dye in the system last time (when I drilled a hole in the condenser) I could see green where the line connected to the evaporator (translation, there's two radiators in an ac system, the one inside is called an evaporator the one outside, in front of the radiator, is called a condenser). I took the H3 to him this morning, and he discharged the system, replaced 2 $2.44 seals, and recharged the system. It seems to be holding fine now... Hopefully this is the end of the saga, the seals looked like there was a leak - but whether it was a defect in the seal or the system was overcharged/overcharging we don't know. It's supposed to be a lot cooler then when the system started having troubles; so perhaps all will be well... crossing fingers.

and a shout out to Mike - he charged me $144.00 to do all that including freon, seals, and the labor...

 

[ffmf2101]

Sounds about as busy as I have been lately...... Work is killing my build lol [emoji15] and don't worry we are patiently awaiting!!

 

[Peep]

Me too, let me know when your ready

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So my AC doesn't work again today, I think that the mechanic only replaced the seals on the engine side of the pressure valve (on the evaporator) - I honestly haven't decided whether or not I want another $150.00 gamble to have him replace the seals on the back side of the pressure valve or simply replace the pressure valve and its attendant seals. I've ordered another evaporator from Rockauto, but that's always a week away for parts, I also ordered the pressure valve and it's supposed to be here Tuesday.

What's worse, my e-mechanic manual doesn't show how to remove the dash - which, according to TonkinOnline's part view, is pretty much a requirement to get it out

Bright side, there's piece of HAM antenna wire still stuck in the console - I'll be able to fix that in this round... 8 hours - that means 16 hours for me to do it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Update on the A/C... so I saw freon (actually, the oil and dye) at the inlet to the cab. So I bought a new expansion valve. We replaced it, and another freon fill as it had emptied itself in 2 days. Mechanic was skeptical, but I insisted and was right... we could clearly see where it vented from the bottom of the valve. But I still have a freon smell... though recently, it's started to smell less but also the AC continues to work - so I have the evaporator core (it's the only thing, else, that can be leaking) and a new heater core (it'd be 100% dumb to not replace that while the entire dash is out). Crossing my fingers that I don't have to do anything... we'll see

In other news, I've had a squeeking from the front that is intermittent and can be cured by swerving a bit; also, I've started having trouble with the truck getting warm - never had trouble before - so Sunday was spent replacing the radiator and unit bearings.

picture of new unit bearing installed


The radiator was a bit dirty, but I think the problem was plugged fins. About the only surprise was the pain in the adz that occurs removing and reinstalling the transmission lines... If I continue to have trouble with heat, I'm going to put a separate cooler for the trans, along with an engine oil cooler. Problem with engine oil coolers is they tend to work too well.

and then yesterday, I noticed a slight miss at idle when it's cold... ugh!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

to complete the story on the A/C - it really was the evaporator, which is silly since there's no wear on it; just faulty manufacturing. Ah well, 7 hours shop labor later and a couple hundred in parts and I have A/C.... just in time for winter! whew, that was close.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Preview of tomorrow's work... after I move the LC off the lift

 

[Hills]

Update on the A/C... so I saw freon (actually, the oil and dye) at the inlet to the cab. So I bought a new expansion valve. We replaced it, and another freon fill as it had emptied itself in 2 days. Mechanic was skeptical, but I insisted and was right... we could clearly see where it vented from the bottom of the valve. But I still have a freon smell... though recently, it's started to smell less but also the AC continues to work - so I have the evaporator core (it's the only thing, else, that can be leaking) and a new heater core (it'd be 100% dumb to not replace that while the entire dash is out). Crossing my fingers that I don't have to do anything... we'll see

In other news, I've had a squeeking from the front that is intermittent and can be cured by swerving a bit; also, I've started having trouble with the truck getting warm - never had trouble before - so Sunday was spent replacing the radiator and unit bearings.

picture of new unit bearing installed


The radiator was a bit dirty, but I think the problem was plugged fins. About the only surprise was the pain in the adz that occurs removing and reinstalling the transmission lines... If I continue to have trouble with heat, I'm going to put a separate cooler for the trans, along with an engine oil cooler. Problem with engine oil coolers is they tend to work too well.

and then yesterday, I noticed a slight miss at idle when it's cold... ugh!

What unit bearings did you get? How much? I need to replace mine.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Rock Auto,

TIMKEN

SP550311

Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly

$ 156.89

$ 0.00

2

$ 313.78

 

[Hills]

Rock Auto,

TIMKEN

SP550311

Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly

$ 156.89

$ 0.00

2

$ 313.78

Wow. That is much cheaper than what the Chevy dealer told me. They wanted 500 per side.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

since you waited for the end of the commercial break, we now continue with our trashing on Rancho
I've said it before, and I'll say it again - mother nature screams when I pound on her


the new shocks are long enough... yet only cost 25% of rancho products


the front is really obscene... see the washers on the rancho shock? that was to get the shock almost long enough for full drop - but you only have 2" of travel... the lower shock is its replacement...


installed


what I didn't get a picture of is I think I need to replace a CV boot at minimum and a CV joint worst case... fortunately, GM build both sides the same, and I have a spare... so I'll wait until it gets noisy or breaks.... though I may need to buy another spare so that I have another fuse... errr, cv joint (they're actually pretty cheap - like $50 cheap)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

put the LED lights back on, hopefully by putting the hot bits out of the engine compartment they last more than 6 months.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

So I have a leaky boot and noise coming from the right front of my H3.. no worries, I'll just order new CV joints (cheap) and install them
Here it is apart, now picture this picture 6 times.


if there is anything good out of this, I do know how to do this swap pretty quickly now.

the leaking one is in the middle


the problem, the APWI joints don't have the same length of slot for the CV joint, so, if you H3 can do full travel, means it will make noise like a ratchet as the balls it the end of the slots....
which means tomorrow I get genuine GM ones delivered, and Sunday I'll go for the magic 7 times and replace the joints.

So what did I learn?
1) it's pretty easy to take it apart, you need a 18 mm wrench, 18 mm socket, 21 mm socket, a 21 mm wrench or a vise grip, a screw driver to pop the abs lines off, a jack and a chain to hold the jack to the frame while you compress the lower a-arm. (all this is from memory as I had this car apart 6 times in 2 days).
2) I'm at 23.75 (max is 24.5 inches) from the centerline of the wheel to the fender - and that is too much for the APWI CV joints
3) Amazon has the best deal on GM CV joints (you know, the ones that work and lasted 120,000 miles) at 190/each
4) I'm saving my driver's side CV for a spare
5) rebuilding CV joints for this cost nearly $1,200
6) pay close attention to how the lines are routed.... otherwise you may be bleeding brakes or finding the abs connection on the back of the metal fender well.:gaah:

 

[RamRod]

Good to know!


Sent from handheld smoke signal device

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

2 day shipping from Amazon, and I have the new, AC Delco joints.... tomorrow and I'll get this thing knocked out - but first, some u pull it action for parts for the '40

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Shiney new parts (woohoo)

There are at least 2 companies that make adapters - Advanced Adapters and Novak. The AA adapter is actually an entire, new bellhousing and costs about $150 more - but it's a new bellhousing.. or the Novak. I went with the Novak for a few reasons... cost, I already had a bellhousing, and interchangeability.... with the Novak system, I can put any bellhousing in front that bolts to the GM 4 bolt set up... heck, I can even do a Ford and just be missing one bolt (yeah, no Fords happening here, but it's an option). Some irreversible modifications have to happen to the transmission though (pictures of that later today)



best of all about my bellhousing, it already has provision for a hydraulic clutch... now, if I only knew what it came from (guess is Chevy truck) as it doesn't appear to be offset like the Camaro



mods needed


​

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

well, did a bit of maintenance

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the rack, I hated the latest lights I had on the rack - they aren't very bright, and they showed signs of water leaking inside them - so it was time to do a few upgrades...

add rails back on to protect the light and get my RTT over the lights


and update the lights... one of the things sorely missing is being able to light up around corners - so my clever way of solving that problem is to turn the rack around... it removes lights from the back - and puts them on the front at a 45* angle. I have lights down below the backup lights; if I need more light, I'll know soon enough and I have a couple ideas for that (such as putting the lights on the pillar. I'd put them back up on top; but they always were in the way when loading stuff on top....



I have another set of the new lights that I might put on as well.... dunno, I think these should be more than enough

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Today's joy was replacing batteries... sigh - I hate having to use goodwill* to get something changed, the batteries may not be the problem; but I took the H3 to them, and we tossed it on the tester... it said marginally bad, then later in the day (they had to order the batteries in) they tested the batteries again, and the machine said they were in great shape... ARGH!!!!! I traded them anyway because it didn't do a load test on the batteries; but only time will tell whether or not that was the problem. Those batteries were 9 months old.

*I try to be a good customer and only bring stuff back that is clearly defective

 

[Hills]

the rack, I hated the latest lights I had on the rack - they aren't very bright, and they showed signs of water leaking inside them - so it was time to do a few upgrades...

add rails back on to protect the light and get my RTT over the lights


and update the lights... one of the things sorely missing is being able to light up around corners - so my clever way of solving that problem is to turn the rack around... it removes lights from the back - and puts them on the front at a 45* angle. I have lights down below the backup lights; if I need more light, I'll know soon enough and I have a couple ideas for that (such as putting the lights on the pillar. I'd put them back up on top; but they always were in the way when loading stuff on top....



I have another set of the new lights that I might put on as well.... dunno, I think these should be more than enough

I like it! Once I finish my lightbar, I need to get on my corner lights. Which ones did you go with? I was thinking rigid duallys for the rack.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the lights I get tend to be cheaper - I've not really found that rigid lights are worth the expense

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

back to the rack... I've come down with whatever the flu/cold-du-jour is; so I was moving pretty slowly



Buick helped, the paradox is if I started the car he's in, he'd head for the hills.
but it makes a good dog house


so there it is, I'm not impressed with the light output, but it's 100% better than what was on there before... so there could be an upgrade...
​

 

[derian06]

back to the rack... I've come down with whatever the flu/cold-du-jour is; so I was moving pretty slowly



Buick helped, the paradox is if I started the car he's in, he'd head for the hills.
but it makes a good dog house


so there it is, I'm not impressed with the light output, but it's 100% better than what was on there before... so there could be an upgrade...
​

How did you mount the roofrack?