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H3 So.....I'm confused now

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,561
Location
Arizona
It's a shame to censor help...I tried to help.

MSC, feel free to post any useful, helpful info you may want. In fact, feel free to just copy and paste that helpful info here from that other forum (I am sure that will get you banned over there, so be my guest) but direct links here to there are against forum rules. I already sent you a polite, respectful PM explaining this to you but if you want to be a dick and not have the courtesy of replying to me privately and want to make your violation of forum rules public, have at it and let the chips fall where they may. If you want to keep this private, man up, and reply to my PM AND let's keep this thread on topic. If you have anything to say to me, send me a PM.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapataint
 
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ABNTROOP

HIPPO
Messages
1,985
Location
Vancouver, Wa
movealong.jpg
 

Mb30sdl

Hamster that pokes Bears
Messages
1,588
Location
Raleigh area NC
My opinion bad tstat. I overhauled coolant system on my I5 at~105K. All OEM parts and Davis racing aluminum rad. My temp stays little less that half even on 100+ days. Kept OEM clutch (new clutch) fan, didn't like comments on e-fans plus less thinks to break.
h2 runs 2e-fans OEM with all weight added it runs hotter ~3/4 now.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
My opinion bad tstat. I overhauled coolant system on my I5 at~105K. All OEM parts and Davis racing aluminum rad. My temp stays little less that half even on 100+ days. Kept OEM clutch (new clutch) fan, didn't like comments on e-fans plus less thinks to break.
h2 runs 2e-fans OEM with all weight added it runs hotter ~3/4 now.

ok so I am not ruling out the t stat except that it stays constant in park idling. But I think I may have found my solution, at work tonight I found a fan off of a viper is almost perfect in size to fit the H3. With a couple custom mounts I'll be in business. Plus if it cools a V-10 viper how could it not cool a I-5......
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
ok so I am not ruling out the t stat except that it stays constant in park idling. But I think I may have found my solution, at work tonight I found a fan off of a viper is almost perfect in size to fit the H3. With a couple custom mounts I'll be in business. Plus if it cools a V-10 viper how could it not cool a I-5......

This is your solution:

a4y5udet.jpg


Its an OEM setup, with OEM mounting brackets, has two speeds and controlled by the PCM. However, this only applies to SA H3 Alphas, and when I checked the parts list the dealer has here (In Qatar) which is for the US version I couldn't find it (Another member, Sennin, lives in SA so he may be able to help with part numbers here...)
According to my idiot gauge, temps never go above the halfway. I did run a scanguage and noticed that in 110+ degrees the engine doesn't heat up above 208 except in one case I did a 25 mile run with tires at 10 psi and was continuously climbing sand dunes and driving on aoft sand. Worst it hit was 215 at ambient temps of 110 but the truck cooled down fast.
 
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08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
This is your solution:

a4y5udet.jpg


Its an OEM setup, with OEM mounting brackets, has two speeds and controlled by the PCM. However, this only applies to SA H3 Alphas, and when I checked the parts list the dealer has here (In Qatar) which is for the US version I couldn't find it (Another member, Sennin, lives in SA so he may be able to help with part numbers here...)
According to my idiot gauge, temps never go above the halfway. I did run a scanguage and noticed that in 110+ degrees the engine doesn't heat up above 208 except in one case I did a 25 mile run with tires at 10 psi and was continuously climbing sand dunes and driving on aoft sand. Worst it hit was 215 at ambient temps of 110 but the truck cooled down fast.

That would work but I'm sure it would be costly. I'm going to see about getting the viper fans tomorrow I think.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
My 3.7L runs warmer vs the original thermostat, but it is pretty much exactly 10F more than it was before. The H3 gauge is just super sensitive and I wouldn't rely on it to much vs an actual temp reading.

Also with the way newer radiators are designed you really won't see it "flow". If the upper radiator hose feels warm, but soft when you squeeze it you've got air in the system. That's how mine was until I burped out the bubble. If it is hard to squeeze and hot then I doubt you have an air bubble.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
My 3.7L runs warmer vs the original thermostat, but it is pretty much exactly 10F more than it was before. The H3 gauge is just super sensitive and I wouldn't rely on it to much vs an actual temp reading.

Also with the way newer radiators are designed you really won't see it "flow". If the upper radiator hose feels warm, but soft when you squeeze it you've got air in the system. That's how mine was until I burped out the bubble. If it is hard to squeeze and hot then I doubt you have an air bubble.


nope, its hot and soft so I know I have air. Still thinking about the dual viper fans tho
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yep you've gotta park it nose up as high as you can. The method that worked for me was run it with the cap on, heater on, until it warms up completely. Then let it cool down enough that you can remove the cap, but first grab the upper hose and squeeze it (just don't let the neighbors see you molesting your H3 haha), I did that and I was able to get it to burp a massive air bubble into the overflow tank. Other way would be to take the cap off, start the H3 and squeeze it until it burps out the radiator.

It will also eventually burp itself out depending on how much you drive it, let it cool, drive it, let it cool. Just faster to burp it yourself.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
Yep you've gotta park it nose up as high as you can. The method that worked for me was run it with the cap on, heater on, until it warms up completely. Then let it cool down enough that you can remove the cap, but first grab the upper hose and squeeze it (just don't let the neighbors see you molesting your H3 haha), I did that and I was able to get it to burp a massive air bubble into the overflow tank. Other way would be to take the cap off, start the H3 and squeeze it until it burps out the radiator.

It will also eventually burp itself out depending on how much you drive it, let it cool, drive it, let it cool. Just faster to burp it yourself.


awesome, I drive about 5 miles at a time but it gets up to temp and cools before I drive it again. I'm thinking that darn air pocket is keeping it hotter.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
Got a huge air bubble out of it today, I think I'm going to pull the fan tomorrow and go with the dual fan for the charger/ vipers. The two on there are not moving enough air and that I think is the issue. It runs fine slightly above half without the AC running but when the AC is turned on she gets hot and stays hot. So on to bigger better fans. I will try to get pics and stuff up of the dual fan setup when I can.
 

Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
Ya when you told me how many cfm they were moving that would be my concern. The efans that come from various vendors specifically for the I5 and V8 Hummer and Colorado/Canyon run between 4300 and 4500 cfm. I think ultimately it was a combo of the two (bubble and lack of moving air) that made things so bad. But I know for sure when you get some bigger fans in there you will be a lot better off regardless of bubbles.
Also a good shroud makes a world of difference so the air is moving directly "through" the radiator and not being sucked from around it.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
Ya when you told me how many cfm they were moving that would be my concern. The efans that come from various vendors specifically for the I5 and V8 Hummer and Colorado/Canyon run between 4300 and 4500 cfm. I think ultimately it was a combo of the two (bubble and lack of moving air) that made things so bad. But I know for sure when you get some bigger fans in there you will be a lot better off regardless of bubbles.
Also a good shroud makes a world of difference so the air is moving directly "through" the radiator and not being sucked from around it.


it seems like the set of dual fans from VDO that fits a 05-10 charger and 8-10 Viper work well after some nodding to fit. They have been keeping it from hitting 3/4 on the gauge and that's even with the AC on.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
Picture time!

Right side
temporary_zps9f04ea4d.jpg


lower right
temporary_zps7d100574.jpg


left side ( pre wiring )
temporary_zps30862a1d.jpg


lower left
temporary_zpsa5f762cb.jpg


top
temporary_zps2b9eb798.jpg


I had to remove the top mounts on the shroud, and trim the bottom mounts and it fit perfectly behind the radiaror. The clamps at the top are crude but effective and temporary until I find something better. The included shroud that's built into the fans is almost perfect to fit the 3s radiator core size.

I took her out for a test drive about 10 miles and was running the A/C and didn't get to 3/4, it's staying fairly constant on temps now. Of course it runs cooler with he A/C off but I expected that. The real test will be when I re install the skid plates!
 

kilroy

Well-Known Member
Messages
110
Location
Owosso MI
Ya know that your open K&N isn't really helping matters, without the air box it's probably pulling more warm engine compartment air than the cooler air inside the fender. Might not be enough to hurt anything but cooler intake air gives a denser charge to the motor.
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
Ya know that your open K&N isn't really helping matters, without the air box it's probably pulling more warm engine compartment air than the cooler air inside the fender. Might not be enough to hurt anything but cooler intake air gives a denser charge to the motor.


Not going to disagree with ya, but I have noticed smoother acceleration and the same gas mileage with the current setup. Thanks for the comment though. I have just been to busy to build a box for it.
 

Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
Not going to disagree with ya, but I have noticed smoother acceleration and the same gas mileage with the current setup. Thanks for the comment though. I have just been to busy to build a box for it.

First off it all looks great and with the shroud as is, it should work perfectly!!! Great work!

Second, you can have my k&n "heat shield" that comes with the kits. I modded my stock box which works a lot better than the shield they provide with their cai kits. But its better than nothing!!! :)

Also just a thought you can use the main slave fuse for your pos with your fan so you can tuck your wires up close to your fuse box then in through the back and not have a stray one running right up to the battery. Makes for a cleaner look. Same goes for your "fuse connection" you made. The guy that built mine used a piggy back type fuse set up and plugged the cruise fuse so they both have independant fuse connections but in case either blows it wont harm the other.

As far as doing it yourself it looks really really good!
 
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08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
First off it all looks great and with the shroud as is, it should work perfectly!!! Great work!

Second, you can have my k&n "heat shield" that comes with the kits. I modded my stock box which works a lot better than the shield they provide with their cai kits. But its better than nothing!!! :)

Also just a thought you can use the main slave fuse for your pos with your fan so you can tuck your wires up close to your fuse box then in through the back and not have a stray one running right up to the battery. Makes for a cleaner look. Same goes for your "fuse connection" you made. The guy that built mine used a piggy back type fuse set up and plugged the cruise fuse so they both have independant fuse connections but in case either blows it wont harm the other.

As far as doing it yourself it looks really really good!


Thanks alot for the complements, on the wiring I was just getting it in to make sure it was going to work. I'll work on cleaning it up soon.

How did you modify your factory box if you don't mind me asking? Got any pictures? I still have mine laying around...... Somewhere......
 

Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
Thanks alot for the complements, on the wiring I was just getting it in to make sure it was going to work. I'll work on cleaning it up soon.

How did you modify your factory box if you don't mind me asking? Got any pictures? I still have mine laying around...... Somewhere......

They aren't compliments. You did a great job.

Ya ya bro I will take some pics tomorrow. Do you still have your stock box?
 

08H3I5

Well-Known Member
Messages
104
Location
Oklahoma
They aren't compliments. You did a great job.

Ya ya bro I will take some pics tomorrow. Do you still have your stock box?

Yea I should still have it out in the garage somewhere......

edit: yep it's still laying out under the bench, just checked. Although to not trip the cel I cut the MAF housing out and use it with the K&N filter. Works and flows good without the idiot light coming on. That's just till I get the exhaust done and get the money to get the PCM tuned....
 
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Airborne

Just a regular dude
Messages
294
Location
Utah
nothing wrong with that. In fact... I have the Jet maf sensor so with me tuning I can run higher injector lbs without the pcm compensating for it even though it already is. helps me run slightly richer even with the higher o2 which = more hp.
 
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