Rear driveshaft replacement

[rascole]

Looking to add a spare rear driveshaft after the last rip to Sand Hollow. 2 different rigs had rear shaft issues and each had a spare, back on the trial in no time. This prompted me to get a spare. After a phone call and a generic quote of @$750, I searched around. Fort Wayne Clutch & driveline has 2 replacements, standard and HD. It uses the non-greaseable Spicer U joint, I would prefer greaseable but not fully educated on pros and cons. I would go with the HD for $470 but want to know who has had experience with them.

2006-2010 HUMMER H3 H3X HEAVY DUTY REAR PROPELLER DRIVESHAFT ASSEMBLY – SKU# 25824022_HDSTL3​

 

[cgalpha08]

I've always heard non greaseable is better since it does not have the channels for the grease, it is therefore inherently stronger vs the greaseable one.

 

[rascole]

I've read that, some argue that a regularly greased joint will last longer. Non greased joint will wear eventually then needs to be replaced instead of rebuilt for less $. I don't know, hoping to spark some good conversation from H4O family. Interweb has opinions everywhere.

 

[06 H3]

100% non greaseable. The cavity for grease makes them quite a bit weaker. OEM is non greaseable and it lasted how long?

I’d see if you can find just a 32 spline slip and then have a shaft made from Tom woods. Would probably be cheaper

 

[Jeepwalker]

Definitely non-greasable for strength. For longevity, the non-greasables should last as long at you own it. I've had/seen many vehicles go 150k and beyond 200k miles on original non-greasable U-joints. (incl my H3!).

One the major issues with 'greasable' joints (U-joints/suspension joints), owner's overlook is incompatible greases. Here's the scenario: A guy takes his rig to get oil changed, or some work done on it, and before he knows it, or even if he asked not, the shop tech injects whatever grease they buy into the joints. Next time our off-roader takes his rig to another shop and they put a few pumps of THEIR different grease in it, ...and so on till there are how many different greases in the joint. Greases contain a few different soap bases (carriers) and some, when mixed become runny, lose their lubricity and lead to accelerated wear. Maybe you've seen greases become watery when mixed??

In the industrial manufacturing world where manufacturing machines and production downtime cost 10's of thousands of dollars ever 15 min, the maintenance procedure is to ONLY ever use the same grease on machines, and never cross streams. That's the recommended practice by bearing companies too. Anyway, auto manufacturers can save unnecessary wear (and a few pennies) by eliminating zerks. If it's only ever you lubing your joints, and you always buy the same product, you're in great shape. But for strength, as you indicate, the solid should be a bit stronger. You can always pop off the end caps from the U-joint and put a daub of grease in them (test for compatibility before hand).

Note: It's a little different with non-greasable ball joints and tie-rod ends. There...the mfgr uses a highly polished ball at the end of the tapered stud, which is pressed into a teflon, or other plastic-lined joint. Along with a bit of grease. So it's different technology than how old-school greasable ball joints used to be. That's how the H3 upper ball joints and tie rod ends are. With these, water intrusion is the enemy (which can rust the ball stud and tear up the teflon), and age ...grease drying out.

 

[rascole]

100% non greaseable. The cavity for grease makes them quite a bit weaker. OEM is non greaseable and it lasted how long?

I’d see if you can find just a 32 spline slip and then have a shaft made from Tom woods. Would probably be cheaper

Glad you chimed in, you know more than most on weak points. I do some water crossings but avoid mud like the plague. The Fort Wayne is reasonably priced, wondering if anyone has dealt with them before.

 

[CaseyS]

To me the u joint is the fuse. It would fail first before the driveshaft. What was the nature of the driveshaft failures? Did they twist the yokes beyond repair?

 

[06 H3]

To me the u joint is the fuse. It would fail first before the driveshaft. What was the nature of the driveshaft failures? Did they twist the yokes beyond repair?

I’ve broke a few driveshaft u joints and I usually try to avoid the driveshaft being a fuse.

I try to avoid any fuses in the system. That hasn’t worked out for me LOL.

When a u joint lets go it usually is bad. Your driveshaft is a projectile and can cause a fuel tank to leak, pop a hole in the floor, wipe out a trans pan, etc.

The yokes grenade themselves with the u joint. I’d prefer a shaft to go in the axle before a driveshaft even though a driveshaft is an easier repair if nothing else breaks with it.

Here’s an example of when my rear, t case end, u joint let go.

Good as new, put seam sealer around the edges inside and outside

 

[alrock]

One of those driveshafts that failed was likely measured a bit too long.

And yeah, I think we all benefit from Chris's mistakes experience.

 

[cgalpha08]

Glad you chimed in, you know more than most on weak points. I do some water crossings but avoid mud like the plague. The Fort Wayne is reasonably priced, wondering if anyone has dealt with them before.

I have dealt with them on my old daily driver, no complaints/issues. I also know Josh and Geno run or have run shafts from them before as well.

Is your rear shaft a custom length with the spring over?

 

[Jeepwalker]

That raises the questions....what's the situation on your front driveshaft? And Front Diff (Rascole)? Do you have the cast iron diff?

Those might be your next weakest links to ponder over.

 

[rascole]

I have dealt with them on my old daily driver, no complaints/issues. I also know Josh and Geno run or have run shafts from them before as well.

Is your rear shaft a custom length with the spring over?

U joints were replaced after SOA, thought I was going to have to lengthen it but after new springs settled it is fine.

 

[rascole]

That raises the questions....what's the situation on your front driveshaft? And Front Diff (Rascole)? Do you have the cast iron diff?

Those might be your next weakest links to ponder over.

Front is D44 with custom shaft with THORparts adapter.

 

[rascole]

I’ve broke a few driveshaft u joints and I usually try to avoid the driveshaft being a fuse.

I try to avoid any fuses in the system. That hasn’t worked out for me LOL.

When a u joint lets go it usually is bad. Your driveshaft is a projectile and can cause a fuel tank to leak, pop a hole in the floor, wipe out a trans pan, etc.

The yokes grenade themselves with the u joint. I’d prefer a shaft to go in the axle before a driveshaft even though a driveshaft is an easier repair if nothing else breaks with it.

Here’s an example of when my rear, t case end, u joint let go.

View attachment 32994View attachment 32995View attachment 32996View attachment 32997 View attachment 32998
View attachment 32999
Good as new, put seam sealer around the edges inside and outside

How often do you replace the greaseless joints.

 

[Happy Hummer]

With all the calcium chloride and brine solution, salt on SE WI roads, way more than I would like. Replacing ujoints seems to be a pretty standard fair for my H3 and Jeep XJ every couple seasons. I've given up and just purchase a complete replacement for each location. On the H3 I took the front one and rebuilt it this last time and got a back up all greased and ready to go. Its in a box on the shelf in the basement. For my Jeep XJ I just toss em and get replacement ones for a couple C notes.

The freaking chemicals have destroyed so much stuff form winter snow removal the past few years. Then again it is what I do for a living so my vehicle's see a lot of use.
But I do not run spreaders or sprayers of any kind. Its the municipalities that just heap it on Lol!

 

[Nikal]

Glad you chimed in, you know more than most on weak points. I do some water crossings but avoid mud like the plague. The Fort Wayne is reasonably priced, wondering if anyone has dealt with them before.

I purchased a front driveshaft with u-joint & cv and was happy with their customer service, how quick they shipped and the price. Btw one of the guys working there drives a H3.

 

[06 H3]

How often do you replace the greaseless joints.

Every few years not because they are worn but as a precaution. The one that ended up breaking was probably 7 years old.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I replace mine when they fail (which has never happened on my DD's) or become worn, dry or fluted... which on some of my DD vehicles with over 200k miles has been never. A guy can always pop off the driveshaft at the diff, remove a cap and inspect the U-joint trunion, and make a good call from how it looks.

But sometimes they do become dry or worn, and I try to use Spicer U-joints, but I've used PDQ, NAPA and some others over the yrs. But mostly the better quality Spicer/Dana's. Off-roading puts a different strain on them. You can usually tell by articulating them what their condition is.