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H3 No interior dome lights - random idle jump around

J

Jayson DK

Well-Known Member
Messages
54
Location
Ohio
Hi all,

2006 Hummer H3 3.5L. A couple quick questions.

One, I have no dome lights. None. What so ever. Yes, I just replaced the body control and programmed it. I checked all fuses with a test light, every one under hood is good. The dimmer works. Any ideas?

Two, the idle randomly stumbles from 400rpm to 1100rpm sometimes when I come to a stop. I checked all coils, swapped them, no other engine codes. Ideas?
 
B

Bruces

Well-Known Member
Messages
215
Location
Portland, TN
Make sure you didn’t accidentally depress the dome light override switch just to the left and below the main light switch. It is made to stop the dome lights from coming on

check, clean the mass airflow sensor for the idle. Could also be vacuum leak
 
J

Jayson DK

Well-Known Member
Messages
54
Location
Ohio
Bruces said:
Make sure you didn’t accidentally depress the dome light override switch just to the left and below the main light switch. It is made to stop the dome lights from coming on

check, clean the mass airflow sensor for the idle. Could also be vacuum leak
Click to expand...

Nope. I've hit the dome override like 10 times. Not changing anything. Will check mass airflow sensor. For vacuum leak, I spray starting fluid all around entire engine when running with no change.

alrock said:
No dome lights with either opening any of the doors or with the overhead switches?
Click to expand...

No dome lights with any doors or switches.

4speedfunk said:
Battery cables?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

? To the battery? I have new new terminals on them so I think the connection is good.

powerlifter said:
Throttle body clean, for the idle?
Click to expand...

Just cleaned it less than 6 months ago. Think it can really get that gunked up that quick?
 
Paranormal

Paranormal

Well-Known Member
Messages
128
Location
Suffolk County, New York
Check all your door switches (pins), including your rear hatch. Good luck.
After checking and cleaning your MAF, chech the screens and maybe replace your [FONT=&quot]Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid. Sometimes the screens fall off. I changed this in my truck and have not any more idling issues.[/FONT]
 
Last edited:
Kick'n Dust

Kick'n Dust

Well-Known Member
Messages
62
Location
Dearborn Heights
Sounds like everyone has good suggestions for your dome light concern. Your idling issue sounds a lot like the same problem I had with my 3.5l. Mine would idle rough after coming to a stop while in drive, like at a red light, then stumble a bit taking off when the light turned green. If I put the trans in neutral while at the red light the idle would smooth out. I tracked my problem down to compression loss at the valves. I can't remember if it was intake, exhaust or both. But what you'll need is a leak down tester, a compression test will not work with this diagnosis. Remove all spark plugs, throttle body and the upstream oxygen sensor. Perform the leak down on all cylinders and listen for air leaking past your valves. I've used smoke from a cigarette or the flame of a lighter to help indicate air movement. If you need a shop to help with this then expect to pay 2 hours of labor, it's what I would charge. If I remember correctly it cost me $200 in labor to have a machine shop to install all new valves. I paid for all the valves and valve stem seals separately and don't remember how much that cost me. If you find this is your problem I would suggest replacing the camshaft actuator, because they tend to rattle for 3 to 5 seconds at start-up when they get tired, and the camshaft actuator solenoid valve, because they control oil flow to the actuator and are known to have issues as well. Removing the cylinder head requires a special tool to hold the timing chain tensioner, a finely crafted peice of wood works great. Good luck

Sent from my Coolpad 3622A using Tapatalk
 
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