H3 long travel

[SuperBuickGuy]

here's the bearing information first - the 2002 Avalanche 1500

Includes Sensor; Tapered Bearing

The Timken SENSOR-PAC bearing is a bolt on wheel bearing package featuring an integral sensing system design to improve performance for anti-lock brake and traction control systems. Design Attributes Features an active sensor capable of sensing down to zero speed. Sensor’s speed information can be used for vehicle dynamics control systems, speed control, speedometer, odometer, trip computer and other purposes. Internally-mounted sensor protects against the elements, which ultimately reduces warranty costs. SENSOR-PAC also utilizes very small sensor-to-target wheel gaps, enabling a much smaller and more cost- effective sensor. Includes an internally-mounted sensor that protects against debris, corrosion, thermal shock, and other hazards that threaten externally-mounted sensors. Designed for superior performance in a minimal space. Timken engineers have packaged the sensor within the bearing without increasing overall dimensions to promote high performance and equal load carrying capacity in a minimum space.

Bolt Circle Diameter	5.5 in.
Flange Diameter	7.035 in.
Flange Offset	1.976 in.
Flange Shape	Modified

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 15111599, 15821079, 15834244, 15834245, 15870575, 15874836

TIMKEN Warranty Information 12 months

now the H3

Includes Sensor; Tapered Bearing; 6 Stud Hub

The Timken SENSOR-PAC bearing is a bolt on wheel bearing package featuring an integral sensing system design to improve performance for anti-lock brake and traction control systems. Design Attributes Features an active sensor capable of sensing down to zero speed. Sensor’s speed information can be used for vehicle dynamics control systems, speed control, speedometer, odometer, trip computer and other purposes. Internally-mounted sensor protects against the elements, which ultimately reduces warranty costs. SENSOR-PAC also utilizes very small sensor-to-target wheel gaps, enabling a much smaller and more cost- effective sensor. Includes an internally-mounted sensor that protects against debris, corrosion, thermal shock, and other hazards that threaten externally-mounted sensors. Designed for superior performance in a minimal space. Timken engineers have packaged the sensor within the bearing without increasing overall dimensions to promote high performance and equal load carrying capacity in a minimum space.

Bolt Circle Diameter	5.5 in.
Flange Diameter	7.059 in.
Flange Offset	1.976 in.
Flange Shape	Modified
Wheel Pilot Diameter	77.81mm

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 10393163, 15102294, 15112382, 15134584, 15233113, 15740291, 15863441, 19209040, FW311, SP550304

TIMKEN Warranty Information 12 months

Honestly, that's pretty close.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

And the hub spline count for both is 33 spline. So even if you had to buy the avalanche hub; the H3 CV half shaft would slip right in.

somewhere in google is a picture of the other company's discontinued knuckle (trailmaster?... can't remember)... and the picture of the avalanche knuckle is identical to it

 

[Cajun_Tiger_Hummer]

Nice, looks like you might be on to something.

 

[poweraidon]

How much is the avalanche kit?


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[benlaud87]

And the hub spline count for both is 33 spline. So even if you had to buy the avalanche hub; the H3 CV half shaft would slip right in.

somewhere in google is a picture of the other company's discontinued knuckle (trailmaster?... can't remember)... and the picture of the avalanche knuckle is identical to it

you mean the tuff country lift kit for the h3?

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

Subscribed, very interested in seeing how this works out

 

[atvspeed4]

Guys I hate to be the one but this 100% will not work. The knuckles matching based on a picture does not tell the whole story. I'll try to outline off the top of my head the reasons this won't work:

Width of frame is different
Mounting points are totally different for lower control arms.
Diff drop is for a aam 8.25 not our diff. The 8.25 is a clamshell design and utilizes totally different mounting.
1500 uses different upper/ lower balljoints and tapers.
There is a write up somewhere where a 1500 wheel hub was temp used on an h3. I believe there was a difference in the center bore of wheels and also 12mm vs 14mm wheel studs. The torsion bar version of the 1500/ avalanche kit did not utilizes a steering rack so I am not sure if the crossmember would clearance our rack.

You would be better off just buying the right kit or working from scratch

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[SuperBuickGuy]

How much is the avalanche kit?


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$900-$1200 less if I can just buy the knuckles.... which may be possible since it's not Rancho.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Guys I hate to be the one but this 100% will not work. The knuckles matching based on a picture does not tell the whole story. I'll try to outline off the top of my head the reasons this won't work:

Width of frame is different
Mounting points are totally different for lower control arms.
Diff drop is for a aam 8.25 not our diff. The 8.25 is a clamshell design and utilizes totally different mounting.
1500 uses different upper/ lower balljoints and tapers.
There is a write up somewhere where a 1500 wheel hub was temp used on an h3. I believe there was a difference in the center bore of wheels and also 12mm vs 14mm wheel studs. The torsion bar version of the 1500/ avalanche kit did not utilizes a steering rack so I am not sure if the crossmember would clearance our rack.

You would be better off just buying the right kit or working from scratch

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So let's answer your concerns:
1) I know it's wider - it's pretty easy to subtract material, a bit harder to stretch it - as for mounting points - again, not a huge deal since you have a great template in the original piece on the Hummer.
2) Rancho is the problem we're working around, they won't sell just the knuckles - so necessity is the mother of this invention (and she's still a whore)
3) the issue with the torsion bar is non existent because I'll use the H3 lower arms.
4) Ball joints, admittedly, is an issue; but it runs dead into another problem I'm already working on solving (non-changeable, non-lube-able ball joints)

This isn't complicated - it's simply dropping everything roughly 2 1/2" from stock. Not moving the upper control arms and rack makes this a better deal
That spindle looks like it maintains the same steering attachment point as stock (so the spindle moves down, the lower control arm moves down, but the rack stays in the same spot and the upper control arm stays in the same spot.

I disagree about working from scratch - I don't have the computer system to figure out the relative dynamic and static loads on the knuckle, but I am adept at mimicking the factory set ups....

Thanks, though, it does give me food for thought... especially the one you didn't mention. The Avalanche doesn't move down the differential, it simply puts spacers behind the CV.... we can't do that on an H3.

 

[jakesz28]

Not moving the rack down will kill tierods and the rack. Just cranking the torsion bars stresses the tierods.

 

[cgalpha08]

Don't you still need a torsion bar relocation kit at the control arms?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Not moving the rack down will kill tierods and the rack. Just cranking the torsion bars stresses the tierods.

the new knuckle, beside lowering the unit bearings (and lifting the truck), the tie-rod end stays in the same place as the stock lift truck - so realistically (and ignoring for a moment the stress of bigger tires), it'd lower the stress on the tie rods because it puts them back to the stock location.

Don't you still need a torsion bar relocation kit at the control arms?

Rancho solves that problem by making a piece that keeps the torsion bars in the same place and allows the lower control arm to move down by slotting in the piece in the original, torsion mount .... alternatively, you could simply lower the torsion bars... though that's kind of disfavored now in most kits

 

[954paulo]

So back to dynasty offroad. What's the word. Did they ever get there hands on an h3 for mock up?


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[amrg]

Long travel would be nice!