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Feel like an idiot

telemike

Hummer Enthusiast
Messages
466
Location
Greensboro, NC
First driving H3 to work. Stop for gas. Get back in and it won't start. Not sure how, but somehow I triggered the anti-theft system and eventually I did get it to start but I have no idea what I did to trigger it or fix it.

How does this passkey thing work and how did I lock myself out?


:emb:
 

MTUH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
315
Location
Plymouth, MI
Pass lock is common in the H3 unfortunately. And is seems to real its ugly head more often as things get colder. Long and short of is the part the key goes in wears out over time and you need to replace the ignition module. Of course this also means you need access to a Tech 2 and the internet to program it to your truck.

Or deal with it and wait 15 minutes for the system to reset and then drive off.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Mine does it after every 15 or so key cycles. I open the door, turn the key into the on position, and wait until the passlock light stop flashing on the DIC, then I return the key to the off position and start her back up (usually about 10 minutes). It just did it to me yesterday morning.

No way to bypass it that I know of. From the research I have done it gets more frequent until it stops working altogether and you have to replace the module. Many manufacturers have the same problem, Ford, Chrysler etc.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Cool - didn't see that. Here is an article for the NewRockies page you linked too:

[h=1]What You NEED To Know About GM Passkey Security Systems[/h]
Back in 1986 GM introduced the factory security systems, also known as immobilizers. In doing so, they were planting an expensive time-bomb in each and every one of the affected vehicles. Given the impact of those systems in the years since the systems were introduced, it’s not really clear whether the intention was really to provide additional security, or to generate a new revenue stream for GM parts manufacturers and dealerships.
[h=2]GM PASSKey goes by many names[/h] Over the years, GM has come up with a number of catchy names for these systems:

  • Vehicle Anti-Theft System (VATS)
  • Personal Anti-theft Security System (PASSkey). To be precise, PASSkey I, PASSkey II, and – count them – PASSkey III.
  • PASSlock. After all, what good is a key without a lock?
[h=2]The disabling effect of GM PASSkey Systems[/h] In spite of the efforts to make the systems, generally known in the industry as PASSkey Systems, sound effective and ever more advanced, they are really all pretty much the same.


It doesn’t really matter if the vehicle’s PASSkey System is controlled by a resistor in the key, by the Theft Deterrent Module (TDM), or by the Body Control Module (BDM).


One of the key attributes that all the GM PASSkey Security Systems share is that they systematically end up immobilizing cars, alright, making it impossible for their owners to start them!



Yes, the many versions may all look different, but they are all based on the same simple idea – so simple, in fact, that you could argue it’s not a suitable foundation for building a true security system.


Most importantly, they all end up immobilizing the host vehicle permanently once it’s about 7 years old. And in all cases, your friendly dealer will ask at least $1,000 to fix the problem – which will invariably strike again after a few more years.


So why are affected owners reluctant to purchase an aftermarket solution through a small shop, at a much lower price? Possibly because these are “security” systems, and they can only get the care and reserve they deserve only from a GM dealership?


The more fortunate owners may think, my vehicle is worth much more than $1,000, and I really don’t know what’s going on, I just don’t want to take any risks, I might as well let the dealership handle this.


But wait a minute… what’s a car dealership’s core business? It’s not repairing obscure, crippling vehicle problems, at a reasonable price.

It’s selling you a new vehicle, as often as humanly possible.



And even if your dealership were inclined to help you repair or replace the PASSkey Security System… well, what a coincidence, many of all those versions introduced over the years have been completely discontinued.
In the meantime, your car still won’t start, and that won’t change unless you have a way to disable or bypass the PASSkey System, and so far… you don’t. Nor do you have time to figure it out. And your time is money. Money on top of the taxpayer-funded bailout of GM in both the USA and Canada.


So what do you do end up doing? Maybe you junk the lame Chevy. Then you take out yet another loan to buy another one. That’s a perfectly happy ending to this story…. for the dealer, for GM, and for the bank.
[h=2]Don’t get me wrong! What I hate is Passkey, not GM![/h] Look, don’t get me wrong. I love GM cars. Most of all, I love Buicks! I love the sound of the engine, the understated attitude, the size…. In fact, I love them so much, that I own two of them! You can even read about how I saved my ‘95 Buick LeSabre from the PASSkey trap. And I was recently lucky enough to get my hands on a rich gold 1970 Buick Electra in mint condition, no GM PASSkey Security System in that one, thank you very much!
[h=2]An ounce of prevention….[/h] Is worth a ton of cure. You remember that saying.
Remove the GM PASSkey “Security” System before it gets a chance to take out your vehicle. Seriously! If it’s more than 6 years old, and even (or especially) if it’s still starting every time, just do a full bypass of the PASSkey System, save yourself a great deal of money, time, and aggravation.


And if your vehicle has reached that age and is having trouble starting – trouble that cannot be traced to the usual suspects, like the battery or starter motor, get it done now, before it’s too late.
Click here to learn how.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
So someone has to be the guinea pig - and I've done more than my fair share of that:giggle: Who's going to buy/install/write-up this product so I can do mine too (after you of course:) )
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
The system can be disabled (at last the part you are having problems with) for less than $5 and in less than half an hour (much less if you have any type of electrical skills). Don't spend any money. My wife is driving my truck today or I would give instructions. I want to verify the wiring before I tell you how to do it.
 

deserth3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,077
Location
Conroe, TX
This will be interesting...:corn:


Had to have mine changed a couple of years back. Luckly it was still under warenty.
But when it's happening it's a big PIA and confusing until you learn what's going on.
 
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cbetts

NERD!!!
Messages
3,188
Location
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
I installed a passkey bypass unit in my father's 2002 Monte Carlo. They are pretty painless to install. Just about any stereo shop will install it if you do not feel adventurous.
 

yellowh3

Active Member
Messages
42
Location
Arizona
The system can be disabled (at last the part you are having problems with) for less than $5 and in less than half an hour (much less if you have any type of electrical skills). Don't spend any money. My wife is driving my truck today or I would give instructions. I want to verify the wiring before I tell you how to do it.

Hmmmm:corn:
 

Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
I knew there was something I was going to do this weekend. Sorry guys.

The way the system works is the ignition cylinder reads the resistance across the key as it is turned to "start". You will need to cut a wire in the steering column and measure the resistance between this wire and the wire that completes the other side of the loop. You will then connect the two wires with a resistor. Some of the systems are a little more complex as to the timing of when the resistance is seen and you will need a relay or two to deal with that but I don't think this is the case on the H3. If someone wants to give it a shot I can tell you the exact wires and if it doesn't work tell you how to set it up with the relays.
 

deserth3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,077
Location
Conroe, TX
Just looked at the schematics. Looks like the resistor is part of the ignition switch, not the key. The BCM reads the resistor when you turn the key to the start position.

I don't see how the system can tell if you use the wrong key. The only think it should protect you from is if some one removes the key cylinder using a slide hammer and shoves a screw driver in to start the truck.

Switch.jpg BCM side.jpg
Switch Terminal 5 goes to A42 "Ign Key Resistor Sig" on BCM

Schematic is called "Forced Entry Circuit".
 
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