FJ4overland

[SuperBuickGuy]

cross member number... hmmm... 3? 4?


time to clean the rivets off


rivets off, notice this cross member is different than number 3 or 4


I need to split that center pivot, and move the mounts closer to the rails

so here's about what it will look like when done.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Here's the math


what's funny, at least to me, is I struggled with doing the calculations on paper, but once I got under the vehicle and fabricated what I thought was right - the numbers confirmed it... with that said, crunching numbers helped because originally the upper link separation was 5", with a converging point being at 87", now it's 30" and all it took was reducing the separation to 4"

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

anyway, maybe a half step forward, they're in but they all have to move .... the frame mounts need to go up, the cross member mounts need to go out to about the centerline mark






funny thing is I guessed at what the spacing of the cross member brackets was that I'd decided on last night. Those are the marks on the outside, if you look at my numbers you'll see they should be 16" apart... which wasn't the number I decided on last night... turns out that number was the right one... anyway, there could be a bit of a break since I have stuff going on the next two nights - but hopefully I can squeeze an hour in to put the mounts where they belong then work on making the cross member actually bolt in place rather than tacked

 

[4speedfunk]

Stopped by my buddy's shop today...snapped a few pics of the Cummins TJ. Sort of dark but the rear 4-link is much like yours...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

front is really similar too. the builder's kit I bought sent 2 (why? dunno) center brackets like is on that Jeep. I cut one apart because I didn't want rear-induced understeer - my suspension links are shorter than his... I'd guess his are in the 36" range, mine are more like 22"

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I appreciate the comments - Seattle is a wasteland as far as guys who build cars. What's odd, is Expo forum, crickets when I posted a synopsis of this... ah well, not this year, but next year when I go to the rally with it - I suspect there will be some interest
Despite having a must-do tonight, I got an hour in on this
moved the mounts and marked the upper mount for some additional adjustment holes.



cross member is going to be removeable (well, at least it will be bolted on - but it will be a PITA to remove)
​

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

On Pirate, they were certain it was impossible to build a 4 link on less than a 100" wheelbase.... as usual, they're wrong.

welded up the outer brackets


oh damn, what's this...


you know, that sure looks like a 4 link...


yes, yes it is a double triangle 4 link




and look at that, the axle isn't where the trailer hitch mounts


oh well, the naysayers do love their short bus

 

[Cyouincourt007]

How dare you prove the self proclaimed experts wrong, again. Lol :woot:

 

[High Five H2]

why would it be impossible to build a 4 link under 100" wheelbase?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

because if someone does it and shows how easy it is to do; they'll be out of a job?

 

[High Five H2]

what's the alternative, a 3 link? leaf springs?

 

[4speedfunk]

I think the issue might be how well it works when it's done....not necessarily can it be done. The pirate guys don't really recognize anything with less than 12" of travel. And even when they do, it usually leads to all kinds of smart-ass comments. It's a hard-core crowd doing hard-core builds so it stands to reason they would be of little help on a mild suspension like this. Don't sweat it. Pirate is not some sort of approval committee.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

my issue with Pirate isn't the approval committee - I regularly participate on Yellowbullet TOBT which truly make the folks at Pirate seem like a church choir - the issue is name calling when you say "I"m doing it this way." It's funny about the 12" travel, I could easily make this 12" of travel, it's designed for 10" (5 up 5 down) but I don't need 12", nor do I need the tippy rig that comes with long-travel. The front will be longer travel, but it will have sway bars (disconnectable, obviously) on both ends to limit travel so that I can drive this down the freeway without fear of roll over. It's fine, what's funny is the number of the same people who are watching on MUD. The suspension will work 1000% better than what was under there when I bought it, further, I won't have to haul my SAR rig to missions on a trailer (which would be the ultimate PITA).

I could have posted the milestone at Pirate, but, you are right, why do that when running this at Walker or up on Jack's pass after a snow event would prove my point so much better?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

didn't get a lot done tonight... and will have to circle back and fix something I probably should have addressed awhile ago.

first, if you ever want to see how much crap is floating around in my shop after an evening, this picture should clear that up...

yeah, a lot

I cycled the suspension and the pinion is staying centered - which is what I was aiming for... granted, this is a huge amount further down then it will live - but it's nice to know if I want 24" of travel, it's there for the asking


so the guy who sold me the FJ is coming by tomorrow night to get the springs and some tires that were given to me by a really nice guy on MUD, and (honestly) I wanted to show off by having the tires on it


but there's a problem
on this side, the nut that holds the hub on has an issue


I knew the new spindle was machined tight - and frankly I should have taken it to any of a couple friends with lathes to turn it down one c-hair. I didn't... and now the spindle nut tries to cross thread rather than spin on - I'm hoping that my friend who's doing the front axle has a die to redo the threads... we'll see tomorrow. Ah well, some days I'm a shining example, most times, however, I'm simply a really good warning.

 

[Cyouincourt007]

That is a lot of stuff floating around in there, wow. I'd say "a shining example" is the case far more often than not :champ:

 

[ABNTROOP]

That's really coming along. Impressed with the know how and engineering to do that.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I've still not decided, so I'll throw this out there. Coil overs with dual rate springs would work, but it's really not the intended purpose, coil springs would work, but still have the same issue.... I do SAR, and one of the big benefits of doing a FJ40 is the short wheelbase coupled with the ability to haul 7 close friends (they may not be close before, but on the seats they would be). This creates a unique challenge, since the rig goes from Buick and I (call it 200# each) plus gear (Buick travels light, I don't) of about 50# for me and tools of another 100# or so. All in, with fuel, tips the scales at an estimated 5500 lbs. Now, add 5 more people, granted all won't likely be 200 lbs, but figure 200 lbs total per person and my rig goes to a portly 8000 lbs, all of that over the rear. With coil or dual coil springs, I don't get overloads. I could add air bags, but that would reduce travel (okay, not absolutely, but our intents yes because it's space limited to put the bags)... so, what if I used coil springs and fox air springs? the issue, as I understand it, is the air springs don't have the capacity I'm looking for; however, if I take the dry load with the coil springs, then use the air springs to handle shock-absorbing and overload duties... that would work? right?...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

or air bump stops... with coil/shock or coilovers

 

[06 H3]

If your seeing weight differences that vary almost 3k lbs I would go with leafs or coil springs in the rear. Seeing the load won't change as much in the front you can do coil springs or coilovers up front. Also I would look into those air bags that go inside the coil they won't limit flex. Or if you want air bags outside of the coil daystar cradles will prevent loss of travel

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm leaning towards the stiff/stiffer coil over springs... I like air bags, heck, it's what suspends my Buick, but I'm not sure that it'll work here because if I go with springs I don't have the room to put bags next to them... everything is a balance and a trade off

brakes


and no, they're not going on top - apparently "fits 14 bolt" doesn't really mean "fits"... oh well, if it were easy.

this picture is "win"


why, you ask? because to check runout, I had to get the nut on the spindle - which required much fine work with a die grinder.... one small step towards completion

 

[Cyouincourt007]

One small step towards completion can be considered one giant leap towards being on missions and loading up folks in need of rescue. They might never know of these current decisions but when you load up the peeps and their gear and drive to safety you will know that all these "small" steps and decisions led to any of that being possible and successful. My :2cents:, cheers

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

back to my main project - I bought a $500 S-10 pickup that needed a title, head gasket, de-smoking the interior, and a front end... got it running (leaking intake gasket), fixed the transmission, removed the sheet metal, and I'm stopped until parts come... so back to this.

I bought a "stock" radiator so that I could fit an oil cooler next to the radiator


of course, it doesn't fit the same stock shell, so fabrication will occur
but I'll still run a stock, clutch fan so that it stays nice and cool
​

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

onward and forward

starting to eyeball how the rear coils will mount






I think it's about 1 coil too tall at this point - but I won't know for awhile, but I will presume I need to remake my spring mounts to get them as close to the frame and axle as possible.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

so I set it on the ground


then remade and tacked in the spring mounts




I need to box them in, but as most everything else - it's merely solid tacks until I'm certain it is where it's going to be permanently

 

[Cyouincourt007]

:corn: