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H3 Transmission bit the dust!

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
I just bought 33s for my Hummer a few weeks ago and today my trans bit the dust(I think) I was cruising at 65 and all of the sudden my RPMs shot up and it was like my vehicle went into neutral. So I threw in in neutral and pulled to the side of the road. I waited a minute and cranked it back up. I then put iit in Drive but it just had high RPMs and when I put it back in Drive it was grinding through reverse. So it seems like I may be getting a news trans and I hope that’s all!


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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
I just bought 33s for my Hummer a few weeks ago and today my trans bit the dust(I think) I was cruising at 65 and all of the sudden my RPMs shot up and it was like my vehicle went into neutral. So I threw in in neutral and pulled to the side of the road. I waited a minute and cranked it back up. I then put iit in Drive but it just had high RPMs and when I put it back in Drive it was grinding through reverse. So it seems like I may be getting a news trans and I hope that’s all!


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With the engine off but key on trying putting into 4 hi lock. Then once in 4 hi lock, start truck and put in gear. If it drives forwards fine you may have just blown the CV joint on driveshaft or a front CV. I've done both and had similar symptoms
 

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
With the engine off but key on trying putting into 4 hi lock. Then once in 4 hi lock, start truck and put in gear. If it drives forwards fine you may have just blown the CV joint on driveshaft or a front CV. I've done both and had similar symptoms

That worked! So I may have some hope! Thank you very much!


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navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
Let me also add this when it happened going down the road I threw it in neutral to pull over and looked down to see it was actually in reverse! I put it in neutral and went to the side of the road. I did what was said above once I got it towed home and it will drive in 4 high. Would it go in Reverse going down the road and still be the CV joint on the drive axel?


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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
Let me also add this when it happened going down the road I threw it in neutral to pull over and looked down to see it was actually in reverse! I put it in neutral and went to the side of the road. I did what was said above once I got it towed home and it will drive in 4 high. Would it go in Reverse going down the road and still be the CV joint on the drive axel?


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Yes
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
547
Location
SoCal
I was cruising at 65 and all of the sudden my RPMs shot up and it was like my vehicle went into neutral. So I threw in in neutral and pulled to the side of the road. I waited a minute and cranked it back up. I then put iit in Drive but it just had high RPMs and when I put it back in Drive it was grinding through reverse.
I had the same thing happen on my wife's Tahoe; turned out the transfer case was shifting into neutral, not the trans. Encoder motor was the culprit. Just another possibility if you don't find a CV joint bad.
 
Last edited:

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
I had the same thing happen on my wife's Tahoe; turned out the transfer case was shifting into neutral, not the trans. Encoder motor was the culprit. Just another possibility if you don't find a CV joint bad.

I just replaced the cv joint and it still does the same thing. The cv joint boot was thrown into the under care age of my H3 so it had to be replaced regardless. So I cranked it up and put it in Drive with no power to the wheels and when I put it back into park it makes a loud grinding noise. This sucks!


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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
I just replaced the cv joint and it still does the same thing. The cv joint boot was thrown into the under care age of my H3 so it had to be replaced regardless. So I cranked it up and put it in Drive with no power to the wheels and when I put it back into park it makes a loud grinding noise. This sucks!


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You need to check both cv axle shafts AND the drive shaft cv that is closest to the transfercase. When you ruin the driveshaft cv it can spin inside the cup but not provide power to the front wheels. Post up after checking that out and we can keep moving forwards on things to check.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,674
Location
Scottsdale
You need to check both cv axle shafts AND the drive shaft cv that is closest to the transfercase. When you ruin the driveshaft cv it can spin inside the cup but not provide power to the front wheels. Post up after checking that out and we can keep moving forwards on things to check.
And with the driveshaft spinning when you put it in park you'd get that grinding noise from the transmission.
 

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
You need to check both cv axle shafts AND the drive shaft cv that is closest to the transfercase. When you ruin the driveshaft cv it can spin inside the cup but not provide power to the front wheels. Post up after checking that out and we can keep moving forwards on things to check.

I have a guy coming to check it out tomorrow. He thinks my transfer case may need to be rebuilt.


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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
I have a guy coming to check it out tomorrow. He thinks my transfer case may need to be rebuilt.


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That doesn't seem to make sense unless the slide collar was dropping into the neutral position which isnt a rebuild thing more of just a shifter fork or encoder motor but what makes that unlikely is that when you request 4hi lock it is changing range no problem and letting you drive. Have you gone offroading recently? When it's in all wheel drive and you say it's not moving is the front drive shaft spinning? That could mean you ruined the front diff
 

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
That doesn't seem to make sense unless the slide collar was dropping into the neutral position which isnt a rebuild thing more of just a shifter fork or encoder motor but what makes that unlikely is that when you request 4hi lock it is changing range no problem and letting you drive. Have you gone offroading recently? When it's in all wheel drive and you say it's not moving is the front drive shaft spinning? That could mean you ruined the front diff

I haven’t been. I just put 33” tires on it and the only thing I can guess is the bigger tires helped whatever was weak break.


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Your front diff is smoked. That’s why it only moves in 4HI-Lock. The grinding you hear in 4HI-Street is the front driveshaft spinning the broken parts inside the front axle housing.
In 4HI-Street mode, the H3 t-case sends all the power to the axle that it thinks is spinning in the mud. With a blown front diff...the t-case thinks your front tires are spinning in the mud. It is doing exactly what it should and is sending all the power to the front axle. So the t-case is working perfectly. This function is 100% mechanical btw (not electronic).
Drain the front diff to see if chunks fall out. Front diffs fail quite often and your symptoms are very normal for this type of failure. Most likely it’s teeth off the ring gear or a broken stub shaft on the drivers side.
Half-shafts, driveshafts, and t-case are probably okay. These parts tend to outlast the front diff by quite a good margin.
 
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navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
Mechanics just left my house and said it’s my differential. With that I ask should I just replace it, rebuild, or rebuild with better parts?


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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
Mechanics just left my house and said it’s my differential. With that I ask should I just replace it, rebuild, or rebuild with better parts?


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If its aluminum diff replace it. Usually when they go they can stress the housing or do other damage from metal chunks.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
You can rebuild or replace. But you can’t rebuild with better parts...because there are none. The only real upgrade is to replace the alum case with a cast iron version from an 09-10 model.
I rebuild these diffs daily and both the alum and cast iron versions are subject to the same sort of failures. They are undersized for a 6000 lb truck, and larger tires make things even worse. There is no golden cure. All you can do is rebuild it and try to keep a light foot on the throttle.
Many H3 off-roaders keep a spare front axle on hand all the time, and periodic swaps/rebuilds are just part of the game. It sucks but that’s the reality of owning & wheeling an H3.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
One nice thing is that parts are very available and they are easy to work on. A rebuild will run approx $200 to $600 in parts and bench labor should be in the $300 range.
I say “bench” labor because most of the time, my customers ship them to me, or walk-in with the diff already pulled from the truck. You can add another $200 or so to the labor if the axle has to be pulled from the truck.
It’s often faster (less downtime) and cheaper to simply swap in a good used diff.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
I am not sure on shipping cost but I think I have a few good aluminum front diffs with 4.56 gears somewhere let me know if you are interested. As soon as we buy a wheeling H3 we pull diff and put in our HD upgrade so we can have fun on 37s :)
 

navaro1982

Active Member
Messages
31
Location
Mississippi
I am not sure on shipping cost but I think I have a few good aluminum front diffs with 4.56 gears somewhere let me know if you are interested. As soon as we buy a wheeling H3 we pull diff and put in our HD upgrade so we can have fun on 37s :)

Yes sir please let me know!


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