Play in steering.

[Aridgerunner]

I'll try to keep this as short as I can.

While the shop (shop "A") had the Hummer in for some of the other work I had them replace the upper and lower steering shafts because there was play in the steering. After they put them in the play was reduced but didn't go away. I drove it that way for several weeks and because I was not happy with shop "A" I had another shop (shop "B") put in a new steering rack, with the inner tie rods. The old one was staring to leak so I figured that was the problem. The play in the steering was still there. After another week I took it back to shop "B" and asked them to figure out where the play was coming from. They told me the steering knuckles where shot. I said how can that be the shafts are new? Shop "B" said they new unit was probably after market and no good.

Today I went back to shop "A" and had them look at the car. They told me there's no play in the steering shafts so the play must be in the steering rack. I just said OK and left without telling them the rack was new. So now I'm confused.

One other thing that might be worth noting, or maybe not. When I first start the car after sitting all night there is no play for the first few miles of driving. It takes a while for the play to develope.

As usual, your help really is appreciated.

 

[Jeepwalker]

What I would do is clamp a large vise grip pliers on the lower end of the steering shaft, or (even better) the input shaft of the steering rack. Tie the vise grip pliers to something solid like the frame ...so it won't move. Then gently wiggle the steering wheel. If you feel some 'freeplay' then it's somewhere between the rack and the steering wheel (or a little of both). Being a new shaft, you'd expect it to be tight, but a shop has to rule it out. There are a lot of joints in the steering shaft and frankly the way it bolts on could be more secure. It's entirely possible it wasn't sinched down quite tight enough.

Then it's time to look at the steering rack on down. That includes tie rod ends (did they install new??), ball joints (Upper and lower), and upper and lower control arm bushings, wheel bearings/hubs, and making sure the new steering rack bushings are good and secured down. There are bushings on the steering rack that commonly fail. Steering rack movement is kind of a weak-ish design on a H3. You'd think the bushings would be new and fine, but let's suppose the wrong bushings with a larger center were installed on the new rack. Or suppose Shop B bolted down the new rack using narrower bolts? Or the rack wasn't bolted down tight enough. So, the point is, it's going to take a good look-over with a fine toothed comb by someone who is thorough. Take it to a specialized alignment shop (Shop-C), and get another assessment. If they come back with a LONG list due to it's age, then it's time to find Shop-D.

I don't see how the actual knuckles themselves could fail, they're robust cast iron -- unless they were factory defective, or became damaged due to some sort of shop screw-up. The shop must have meant something else.

 

[4speedfunk]

Make sure the new rack isn’t slipping back & forth during turning. There is a clamp on the passenger side and two bushings on the drivers side…both are often overlooked but, they can cause the sloppy feeling at the wheel. Super easy to check…just crawl underneath and have someone cycle the wheel back & forth. Don’t bother with GM clamps…aftermarket (like Outfitter Design) clamps are the fix…

https://youtu.be/n4jpHf-WMVU

The intermediate input shaft is prone to failure and I replace these quite often. Here’s one with 94k on it, and this condition is typical…

Sounds like you have already replaced this piece. Make sure the clamp (where the lower shaft connects to it) is good & tight. There is a plastic piece that the pinch bolt threads into, and it needs to be there. Lok-tite of course. Old vs new…

 

[Aridgerunner]

Make sure the new rack isn’t slipping back & forth during turning. There is a clamp on the passenger side and two bushings on the drivers side…both are often overlooked but, they can cause the sloppy feeling at the wheel. Super easy to check…just crawl underneath and have someone cycle the wheel back & forth. Don’t bother with GM clamps…aftermarket (like Outfitter Design) clamps are the fix…

https://youtu.be/n4jpHf-WMVU

The intermediate input shaft is prone to failure and I replace these quite often. Here’s one with 94k on it, and this condition is typical…

Sounds like you have already replaced this piece. Make sure the clamp (where the lower shaft connects to it) is good & tight. There is a plastic piece that the pinch bolt threads into, and it needs to be there. Lok-tite of course. Old vs new…

If that plastic piece is supposed be in the hole that the bolt goes through then I suspect it is not there. Do you have a picture of the plastic piece?

And, to replace the piece is it necessary to remove the steering column? Or at least loosen it and pull it back?

Thanks!

 

[Jeepwalker]

I don't remember the plastic piece, but helpful tip: if you loosen and pull the steering column back to check things, rest the steering wheel on the seat but don't rotate the steering wheel at all. (none). There's a clockspring inside the column that can break if the wheel is over-rotated (breaks the wound spring). The computer senses steering angle through that clockspring sensor. So, just rest the wheel down and don't let the steering wheel rotate (which it won't if the key is in the off position), and just reinstall it ...again, w/o rotating much till you are fished with yer work. I mean, a little bit isn't going to matter. There's a place in the column for a lock-pin but I've had mine down a couple times and just rested it on the seat and never used the lock pin.

 

[Aridgerunner]

Thanks for the tips. I need a break in the weather so I can put one of my collector cars outside and get the Hummer in the shop to investigate this. I'll report back hopefully in a few days.

 

[alrock]

Was the passenger side steering rack mount replaced? That bushing wears out. I assume they would bring that to your attention if it was an issue.

 

[Aridgerunner]

Yes. The new rack came with all new bushings.

 

[Aridgerunner]

I forgot that I had this thread going a year ago. I apologize for starting new one.

I have been ignoring that play in the steering. I changed oil a few weeks back and had my wife turn the steering wheel through the free play (engine off) while I looked for the play. The shaft moves in the rack and the wheels don't turn. The rack and pinion are the problem and I guess the only solution is a new rack as I can see no way to adjust the clearance between the rack and the pinion.

The next rack will not be a rebuilt Cardone.