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H3 Overheating

sonicstage

Well-Known Member
Messages
147
Location
Burbank, CA
So my trucks temp is great when the ac isn't on but as soon as I turn the ac on the temp jumps up above the halfway maker on the gauge I mean it's 103 out here today but it's weird that the times would spike right above the line when the ac is on the minute the ac is off the gauge swelled back down to the correct spot
Can anyone tell me what's going on or if this has happened to you before I send it in form some croni to tell me I need thousands of dollars to fix something I have a 2006 hummer h3
Thank you all
 

Babyjohn460

Well-Known Member
Messages
80
Location
Burton, OH
It's likely because your ac compressor, once turned on, puts a load on your engine while it's running. Might be more than one issue too. Radiator might be slightly plugged or your thermostat may be sticking.


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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
That's not overheating. If you have a newer thermostat it'll run around the half way mark. That being the norm for me in my 06. To see what the real temp is, get a scan gauge. I wouldn't be concerned about it. When my ac is running in hot weather the engine runs a little hotter.

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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,663
Location
Scottsdale
How we can notice that temp in automatic transmission high ? As i know we have no temp sensor in automatic transmission..
I believe the original poster was talking air conditioning, not automatic transmission. Or are you asking a new question in this thread?
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Your engine coolant temperature goes up when the A/C is on due to the way A/C works. The A/C refrigerant transfers heat out of the air being blown into/through the cabin and that heat has to go somewhere, so it is dissipated via the condenser which sits in front of the radiator. Since the air flowing through the condenser and the radiator is being heated up from the heat in the condenser when the A/C is running, the radiator isn't able to transfer as much heat to the air since the air is already heated up compared to ambient. Does that make sense? It'd be easier to explain with pictures.

Basically when the A/C is on the air blowing through the radiator is hotter than with the A/C off. So it can't cool as much. You can't switch the radiator to be in front of the condenser because then your A/C wouldn't cool or it might even cause it to get hotter in the cabin.

If the engine temps are too high with the A/C on then you might just need to turn off the A/C and suffer. Or turn the blower to the lowest setting and keep re-circulation on to limit how much heat is dumped from the A/C to the air going to the radiator so it doesn't heat it up so much.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
How we can notice that temp in automatic transmission high ? As i know we have no temp sensor in automatic transmission..

There is a temperature sensor in the automatic transmission of the H3's, a Scanguage II or an Ultragauge MX can read the manufacturer code for it. I have an Ultragauge MX that i just got and it is reading my transmission temperature just fine. (2008 3.7 H3)
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
Thank you for answering so fast. How this sensor named in Ultragauge ? I use bluetooth scaner and Torque programm. I can not find it in sensor list. Maybe you can help me ?
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Are you able to program in codes in the Torque app? I thought I read somewhere that you could. If you can that is all you need, somewhere on here there are a couple threads that have the codes for the Allison transmission temp readout. I'm on my tablet right now so I can't locate them, but a search should turn them up.

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amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
On hptuners I can pull trans temperature for the Alpha but not for the I5.

As for heating with the a/c on, at 115 ambient the truck idles 20* higher with a/c than without. (222* vs 203*)
The condensor sheds alot of heat (try touching it after having a/c on for 5 mins) which heats up the air passing through it to cool the radiator behind it. A good pusher fan that comes on with a/c is a cheap and easy upgrade that will give you freezing a/c and drop the engine coolant temps.
 

sonicstage

Well-Known Member
Messages
147
Location
Burbank, CA
Thank you all so I guess my truck will run a little bit hot when the ac is on


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Last edited:

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
I am running a 12" pusher fan now connected through the SPOD. I turn it on manually when I get in the truck through the touch screen to help with this crazy Chicago heat. With it turned on I have ice cold air even sitting still in traffic and my engine temp gauge has never gone above the half way point. Best $80 ever spent on this truck. Maybe someday I will add a controller of its own but I like the ability to turn it off in deep water crossing.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
After having my Ultragauge going for about a week and seeing how the 100+ degree weather affects it on my commute home, I'm realizing the need for a pusher fan and a transmission cooler. My transmission has gotten up to almost 225 a couple times, and that is without any hills, just stop and go traffic (lots of traffic lights for me, I commute via surface roads). My engine has gotten up to the same temp, and I've noticed that the engine will cool down faster than the transmission will.

So adding a pusher fan will help, even if I just wire it to a switched relay and manually control it, or even wire it so that it comes on with the A/C compressor clutch being energized, or something like that. And an external transmission cooler seems almost a necessity. I'm thinking that I could add it to the hot side before the cooler in the radiator, that way it'd cool off the fluid when needed but if it's winter the fluid will be warmed back up by the radiator to keep it from being fed excessively cool fluid.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
From trial and error,

Amp draw is a good indicator of how much cfm the fan makes. The next thing is how much air a fan moves when there is a restriction infront of it.
Fan blade shape (curved vs straight) change the sound of the fan.
For a 12", spal has a fan that pushes 2000 cfm but it pulls up to 35 amps (depending on restriction). Spal is the only manufacturer to publish how much air its fans pull under different restrictions.
Depending on the fan, one can be pushing 2000 cfm in free air but drop to 700 cfm infront of a rad while another would drop to just 1400 cfm.

http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/products/axial_12.aspx

What your looking for is in the "305 mm" category
 

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
12" push fan installed photo. It was VERY tight and I used some zip ties and the center bar providing holding pressure.

attachment.php
 

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chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
You can read trans temp with the torque app. You must add a custom PID. Credit goes to Adventr for posting this. It will work on an I5 as well, I use it all the time.

PID: 221940
Long name: Alpha Trans Temp(you pick whatever you want)
Short name: TransTemp (you pick whatever you want)
Minimum Value: 0
Maximum Value: 220
scale: x1
Unit: °F
Equation: ((A*9)/5)-40
OBD Header: 7E2
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Any fan will cause a restriction in air flow at highway speeds unless it can spin fast enough that is pulls more cfm than the speed of the vehicle pushes through it. A good fan would be by SPAL, but make sure whatever you get that it is water proof and reversible. And pick the highest CFM rating you can get. As was stated earlier, amps are proportional to cfm flow. A 10A rating WILL NOT pull an advertised 2500 cfm no matter who's fan it is.
 
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