HUNNER EXtreme Steering Rack Sleeves

[ColoradoH3]

Wondering if you still have one of these sleeves available?

 

[Hunner]

Hunner, could you please post up a list of those with reserved sleeves?

I'm working on it I have been out uh testing! I believe we are going to have to reorder. I'm going to leave the first order alone so it will stay in line. However, I can place another order when I see how much more interest there is. If it gets up to 10 or so I will order 20 more to get the same price.
Standby.......
Don't worry, be happy your #7!

 

[Hunner]

Wondering if you still have one of these sleeves available?

Hang on I need to double check my lists and let you know. There may be 1 or 2 left. If so you would get in on this first batch. TrailBlazer may be number 10 on the amended purchase order. I will see how they will work this if I order some more on a different purchase order. I will post up later, let me do some cyphering:shifty:
Thanks

 

[Hunner]

Ok, I had a brain fart; not enough coffee. For some reason I was thinking of removing the steering wheel and column, and that is not necessary with a gear change. So, forget the information about the air bag system. Just locking the column in place affects nothing. It's Sunday...
:emb:

I feel better already. I thought I had been lied to by the techs I talked to and was very lucky!!
Thanks for clearing that up!

 

[Hunner]

Thank you for putting me down for one! My steering is leaking and the rubber bushing has basically torn itself apart so I'll have to see what else needs to be replaced along with the rack. At first I thought it was the lines from the pump but when I saw the bushing torn up and read all the posts of people having the same issue, I knew it was the rack. Thanks for the info on the steps you took, I've always wrenched on my vehicles but never had to change a rack before so the more info I have the better.

So is your seal at the end of the rack leaking? I have heard of one other person have that happen with the stock bushing. I have mentioned that I thought it would be possible with this mod that it "could" cause more wear on that seal since the whole end of the rack is not moving over a half an inch. I prefer to take my chances on that as opposed to breaking a rack on the trail, losing fluid and burning up the pump or worse drive off a cliff! It will be interesting to see how your techs respond to this mod. Keep us posted.

 

[Hunner]

Nobody is going to be left out. Here is what I have based on past communications some time back before I ordered any and now that I have. Some replies sounded like they meant they wanted them but if you are on here and don't, let me know.


1 F5 shipped
2 Alrock
3 Joshual shipped
4 Ahana
5 06H3 shipped
6 Paladine71
7 3Hummers shipped
8 supersapper-rpm
9 cbetts shipped
10 djinco
11 jgbb04
12 bunger shipped
13 bigunit shipped
14 kd7irm
15 H3slate
16 NCalphadog
17 H3ing
18 xllkoyokollx
19 JR3T
20 swank3T
21 Nacho
22 TrailBreaker
23 midnightH3
24 ColoradoH3
25 08h3
26 reaper
27 Portager shipped
28 H32NV
29 AZTraveler
30
31
32

I think as of right now everybody is covered on this first batch of 50.
I will start a new list if there are more people and give it a few days to see what interest there is. I want to get enough to have some spares while I'm doing it as new people come along.
Sounds like trailbreaker should have some feed back from a dealer for us after having a current failure.
Yell at me if this does not cover you.:shifty:

 

[TrailBreaker]

Thanks Hunner. Glad I made the initial cut. By chance is there a time frame for availability? I don't mean to rush, just only want to disassemble the rack and do the axle seal all at one time. And yes, we will be getting some opinions from the techs at work. So far they love all the modifications and improvements everyone here has come up with. They all agree the racks are a definite weak point, and are looking forward to seeing this solution. We have been coming up with all kinds of options ranging from modding a 2500 rack to a full hydraulic set up, and there has even been some talk with me about going full IFS/IRS from a 2500/3500 truck. Which would be really different.

 

[Hunner]

They told me three weeks as they have to manufacture these to my specs and do not stock any. I would get your rig fixed and working. The bracket and possibly the tie rod boot on stock tie rods is the only things you have to remove to install this. I can't remember if there is room with the stock boots on or not. It has been too long. Somebody was going to check that? I don't think there is. So using a generic 19 inch long CV boot clamp and a tool to adjust that to length will be needed. I posted that above somewhere.
Ask those guys if they can get the "quick" clamps that come on new boots.
I got some new boots from the dealer and they are not rubber like they used to be, but some sort of synthetic pvc or something and stiff. They have them for 14mm or 16mm with a formed outer end. That probably will not work for my BP tie rods as I had to cut the rubber ones to go over my clevis adapter. I have some other kind coming Monday.
OEM are now $30 with my discount and not shipping at the GMC place.
These I am getting are $18. We will see.
I don't think it is legal to run full hydraulic on the road and if it fails you are done, no back up.
There may already be someone with a 2500 rack.:shifty:

 

[ColoradoH3]

Hunner, thanks for getting me the spare! I really appreciate it! Just send me that paypal invoice when you want the moola! Thanks again.

 

[TrailBreaker]

Ok cool. Thanks. I will get the truck repaired then, especially since it doesnt require full removal to install the sleeve. I am considering the BulletProof tie rods as well as extra insurance. I will take a look at the catalog tomorrow and check the pricing on the boots and clamps. I know the guys in the shop have the clamp tool needed, so that's not an issue. I will PM you tomorrow with any information I can find. Thanks again

Jason
TrailBreaker

 

[Hunner]

Are you getting a whole new rack? Is that because the seal on the pass side is leaking?

 

[MidnightH3]

Are you getting a whole new rack? Is that because the seal on the pass side is leaking?

I've got to take a closer look at it, it could be the seal or maybe one of the lines. Theres so much steering fluid covering everything it was hard to tell where it was coming from. I didnt have a second person with me when I looked at it to turn the wheels while I was underneath it to see if the steering rack is actually separating or not. I plan to take another look at it on tuesday and I'll have some help then. Thanks again for putting this together for all of us, its cool when people find fixes like this!

 

[Hunner]

Wait I'm getting confused, which is normal. Did you AND Trailbreaker have rack problems? If the rack is actully separated, when you steer the outer part would move with the inner rack making for some crazy steering. If it is broken and the short line is also broken and leaking you better make sure to keep fluid in the pump or it will burn it up, oh and you won't be able to steer!
Straighten me out here, are all these things exploding at near the same time. How many miles you have on the ticker?

 

[MidnightH3]

Wait I'm getting confused, which is normal. Did you AND Trailbreaker have rack problems? If the rack is actully separated, when you steer the outer part would move with the inner rack making for some crazy steering. If it is broken and the short line is also broken and leaking you better make sure to keep fluid in the pump or it will burn it up, oh and you won't be able to steer!
Straighten me out here, are all these things exploding at near the same time. How many miles you have on the ticker?

Yep, I'm having issues as well with the rack. I'm still able to steer so I dont think the line is broken...yet. My steering wheel doesnt always center in the same spot so I think it is moving somewhat.

 

[TrailBreaker]

My rack isnt "broken" per se, the bushing is destroyed on the passenger side, and when I steer to lock (either left or right) the pump groans something awful. I ma sure it is all related to the trail failure a few weeks ago, and with all the other damage, the rack just wasnt looked at carefully. But now that Midnight brought up the issue of his steering wheel not always going back to center in the same spot, I notice dmine did that this morning on the way to work. I hadnt noticed it before, but that doesnt mean it wasnt happening.

I have 52,267 miles on my truck, but only about 20,000 on this rack. I replace the original rack when I got back form Moab in April because the bushing was worn out.

Hunner,
I am at work now, and will be looking up those boots and such. i wil PM you by lunch.

Jason
TrailBreaker

 

[Hunner]

Yep, I'm having issues as well with the rack. I'm still able to steer so I dont think the line is broken...yet. My steering wheel doesnt always center in the same spot so I think it is moving somewhat.

That could be because the two parts of the rack are moving some instead of moving the tie rods directly!
Be careful with that. If it is snapped it could move enough to cause more damage to the tie rods, or worse, loose control.
Check that fluid level.
The short line cracked on mine but did not come apart. I have pics that people sent to me and described the same thing happened. That is why I made that flex line that would not come apart if the rack broke. Then I decided to try to prevent it from breaking in the first place with the sleeve/bushing and then went further with the center bracket.

 

[Hunner]

I spent all afternoon creepy crawlin under the H3. I wanted to check everything under the front end. I'm going some where just not sure where or when. I needed to replace my passenger side tie rod boot. I have had trouble keeping that one intact for some reason since I installed the BP tie rods. That is another story sort of.

While under there I decided to remove the sleeve/bushing and grind on the bracket some to make sure it was seated. I found that the back of the bracket around the bolt holes was not really flat. I shaved off some metal. I looked at the lower mounting hole and realized the bracket was thicker or raised around the nut insert. I hit that pretty hard. I had to use a new disc that was 4/1/2 and remove the guard. So I wore goggles! Grinding that was better that hitting the bracket too hard and reducing the thickness. The head of the grinder would not let me go very high but as high as where the bracket contacted it.
The OEM original boots are flexy rubber. I think I mentioned the OEM replacements are a bit stiffer. The old style would go over the sleeve/bushing I don't know for sure the new ones will. I boiled one to soften it and could not get it on. It will fit over the end nut and probably would stay using a skinny hose clamp or ready clamp if I can find some the right size. I'm working on it thru some sources I have. Those work with NAPA plier crimpers that go straight on. I did not have enough room to use the longer bands for CV boots because you have to fold the tool over and hammer down the crimp tabs. Unless you damage a boot you probably have the soft rubber ones.
I got somebody I think at a dealership that is going to install the sleeve/bushing and they will hopefully report on their findings.
I finally had it with the tab on the bottom of the clamp. I had shortened it but tonight I cut that sucker off so I could wiggle and fit easier. Once you do that you could remove the sleeve without taking off that top bolt which is not fun.
More later when I find out more. I'm just trying to save everybody some time.

I also media blasted this one to smooth it out after grinding, but it should be painted to keep it from being rusty. Just my way of making things look finished and see potential problems. Then go get mud all over it!

 

[Hunner]

I was so pleased with how tight the bushing fit with a little grinding that I decided I should try a 2 inch sleeve. I went and looked at a used H3 and the boot goes on all the way to the bracket. That is what I was trying to find out. It needs enough room it won't pull off.
So, many hours of fitting and figuring and studying the options;
I decided the quick clamps at about $7.00 each that require a $30 tool and no one loans them was out.
I regular SS 2 1/2 inch clamp is serviceable and re-useable. You could use a cam clamp for even tighter fitment if needed.
I had to get a cam lever clamp to get the outer boot end tight on my BP. I cut off part or the stem but needed to leave enough to make it reach before torquing in down. If it holds up good I will cut that flush. That is what you see sticking out over there. It clears but looks like crap!
I will call in the morning and hopefully change the order from 30, 3 inch to 50, 2 inch. If they cannot change the first order I will just get that chop saw I keep putting off!!
The main reason I want to do it this way was that I found out these new replacement boots by MONDO the makers of the rack, are different material than our original boots. I wanted everyone to have the option in the future to install a new boot without a hassle. They would not fit over the sleeve like the old ones. I guess we got lucky on me needing new boots.
So Big Unit and Mutaint you might want to study this option.
This was a funny ritehere. I got frustrated repeatedly getting to that top bolt. I cut a deep socket to about halfway between a short one and full deep socket. Worked great!
Arky inginenewity.

 

[Hunner]

Got some news. I think the 2 inch long is the way to go to insure you can fit replacement boots.
I called to amend my order but the 3 inch were already sent out for hardening. Oh well, my fab shop here said they would cut them or I may get the chop saw I always wanted.
So I asked about adding 20 each 2 inch to the order. They happen to have some blanks that size and will stamp the teeth and send them all Friday! Stay tuned.
I also got a bit more technical details. I was concerned about the heat from cutting them but was told that it would probably not affect hardness and that in our application should not be a problem.
They are made from chromed cold rolled steel (maladine?) (I thought he said brinell) hardness 48, AISI 61/50 spring steel.
I will learn more, always do.
I guess now my hearing is going..............

 

[3Hummers]

It is he'll getting old isn't it Hunner?

 

[06 H3]

I hope you wore earmuff things when you were younger. Now that I have started fabrication I try to keep some sort of ear protection on when using any type of grinder...those suckers are loud.

 

[Hunner]

It is he'll getting old isn't it Hunner?

but better than the alternative!! too many trails, not enough time.

 

[Hunner]

I hope you wore earmuff things when you were younger. Now that I have started fabrication I try to keep some sort of ear protection on when using any type of grinder...those suckers are loud.

Too many explosions and too many guns, it was a trade off on wanting to hear people coming or protecting my ears. what? earmuffs when I was younger, only when it was cold!
I wear all that stuff NOW and have always worn glasses that have saved me but now I cover them with clear masks which of course fog up. For painting I have a fresh air fed mask. Apparently the brain damage is already done.:whaa:
I did get a strand of something toxic as the doctor said, I thought it might have been fiberglass or carbon fiber, in my eye, now I have dry eye and little dams in my tear ducts, it's alway sumpthin!!
You need to wear a mask too, inhaling that grinding dust is not good.

 

[06 H3]

Too many explosions and too many guns, it was a trade off on wanting to hear people coming or protecting my ears. what? earmuffs when I was younger, only when it was cold!
I wear all that stuff NOW and have always worn glasses that have saved me but now I cover them with clear masks which of course fog up. For painting I have a fresh air fed mask. Apparently the brain damage is already done.:whaa:
I did get a strand of something toxic as the doctor said, I thought it might have been fiberglass or carbon fiber, in my eye, now I have dry eye and little dams in my tear ducts, it's alway sumpthin!!
You need to wear a mask too, inhaling that grinding dust is not good.

I have gotten the ear protection and eye protection covered. Metal shavings only had to get into my eye once before I learned that lesson. Luckily my neighbor is an eye doctor or else I would have gone to e.r. he showed me what he took out of my eye and it wasn't one little piece it was bad. I will look into something for breathing though. I dnt want to have bad lungs. That means no more bishop trips

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Hunner]

The Bishop trip was dusty?
You should check into the proper respirator for welding fumes also.