ABNTROOP
HIPPO
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- 1,985
- Location
- Vancouver, Wa
So about eight months ago, on a Camping trip my windshield wipers started acting up. First the lower intermittent settings crapped out, then the higher settings, then low, med, and finally the only way they would work was on high. This all happened in the span of 20-30 min on the road driving through the mountains during a particularly nasty rain squall. As they say, when it rains, it pours :giggle:. We continued driving as the High setting was still working, but I discovered upon parking, that every time I put my key in the ignition, the minute it was turned to AC, the windshield wipers would automatically start up of their own accord, and swipe three times but rather than returning to their start point would stop and park themselves somewhere random on my windshield on the third swipe. The only way for me to adjust them out of my way was then to turn the wipers on high and time it just right by clicking them down a notch from high (my new off position) when they were back down where they should have normally parked. I explain this only so that if you're having this issue it might help you figure out if you're in the same boat i was as this seems to be a fairly widespread issue by my research.
The purpose of this thread, is to share my fix, as well as some troubleshooting research I have come across, as I had to hunt quite a bit, and although there are more than a few threads touching on this issue, rarely do people post a follow up of their fix, and if they do, it's brief and not terribly helpful AKA "the dealer fixed it and said it was the flux capacitor bla bla" For the record, The fix for me finally turned out to be the Windshield wiper motor itself.
So, if you have the same symptoms as described above, first off, I'm sorry. But, don't despair. It seems that your wiper malfunction is due to one or a combination of five things. I'll range them from Typically the solution as well as cheapest and easiest to last resort and "it's flat out gonna suck to be you"
1. The windshield Wiper Motor itself
2. The Fuse/ Diode/ Fuse Box itself
3. The Dash Column Multifunction Switch
4. The BCM
5. The wiring
So, The windshield wiper motor is the easiest to swap out, and replace. Just because your wipers are working does not mean it's not the motor. that motor is not just an on/off, it receives different signals on different pins and is usually the culprit. It's worth noting at this point that all of the signals to the windshield wiper motor go from the steering console multifunction switch THROUGH the BCM EXCEPT for the high setting which runs direct. This fact alone made me sure that it was not the fault of the motor, but as i was wrong, I am lead to believe that the motor receives and processes different signals on different pins from the plug. Anywhoo, pop your hood, remove both side faux intakes, lower hood, pop covers off windshield wiper arm brackets, remove windshield wiper arm bracket retaining nut, lift wiper arm away from windshield and give it a good little pop clockwise and arms should come off. set aside. next, pry upper center trim piece off. its just held on my retention clamps, then remove lower internal trim which is held on by four or five little black round pressure pins. be careful when removing lower trim as it holds your windshield wiper squirters and accompanying hoses. I just shifted it under the hood into the engine compartment so i didn't have to disconnect anything. Next up, undo the plug going into the windshield wiper motor, undo the two bolts holding the motor and transmission in place, slide whole assembly towards drivers side by about 1/2 inch then work it out. it comes out and goes back in at an angle. undo nuts, swap motor, loosely reinstall unit, plug motor in, turn key to AC and turn wipers on for a moment. Connect motor to transmission,and be sure the arm for the motor hub is pointing directly towards the driver side. This sets a good starting point for your wipers. reinstall bolts, trim, etc in reverse order and test.
If it's the fuse box, how do you know? well first, open up the fuse box and pull the diode (the fuse looking thing with the arrow on it) FYI the current only runs one way through this thing so note which direction its facing. check continuity on it with a meter, or replace it. next up is your windshield wiper fuse. look on the bottom of the lid to find which one to check. next is relay, when you click your wipers on, be it high, etc do they click? if so, good, either way, swap your relay for another to be sure. while you're pulling and checking stuff, look for corrosion on the fuses, the plugs, etc inside the box. especially if you have a broken lid like many do!!!!
The lids on these boxes are notorious for failing and with what a lot of us do, even during basic street use moisture will get in there and corrode. My lid was broken, god knows how long it was broken, so I opted for putting a whole new fuse box/ lid/ fuses/ relays/ etc in. This was my first attempt at a fix, and although pricey, i knew it needed to be done due to the amount of corrosion. Swappi9ng the box is not difficult and pretty straight forward as long as you pay attention. especially while removing the lower deck of fuses. pay attention to the plugs underneath the lower deck and make sure you've slid them up and out before sliding your new lower deck in. The last thing you want to do is is screw up those plugs/ pins. don't force anything! if it's not clicking in smoothly, stop, remove and take a peek. figure out whats hanging up.
if it's the dash column multiswitch, there are four screws in the bottom of your steering column. remove them and the shell around the column splits into two pieces. remove them, check the part number on the ring of the multiswitch and order a new one. you'll have to disconnect the air bags plug, remove the steering wheel air bags cover dealio, lock your wheels straight ahead, pull the nut and remove steering wheel, then disconnect and swap out multiswitch. then put everything back together. CAUTION! be careful while disconnecting airbags, and it would be best to pull your air bag fuse before doing any of this and not a bad idea to disconnect your battery as well as an extra precaution!! you also do not want that steering column to turn so that your wheel and tires line back up properly
If the other have been ruled out, it could be the BCM, in which case, off to the dealer you go, as they have the proper testing equipment, and will have to reprogram the new BCM to work with your vehicle. You Cannot just pull a used BCM form the junkyard. won't work. On a side note, the BCM is typically located behind the lower right front passenger footwell kick panel.
if it's wiring issues, aka broken, burnt, god knows what wires, then good luck to ya, don't have a clue, I hope you're good with that stuff and have a lot of patience, otherwise drop it off at a dealer, drop your pants and bend over. It aint gonna be pleasant. Only upside is this seems to be non existent, not saying it couldn't be a cause, it's just not terribly likely.
Sorry if this was long winded, Hopefully it puts all the info that i had to hunt for in an easier to find package, hopefully it helps, hopefully it works, hopefully it saves ya a couple bucks.
The purpose of this thread, is to share my fix, as well as some troubleshooting research I have come across, as I had to hunt quite a bit, and although there are more than a few threads touching on this issue, rarely do people post a follow up of their fix, and if they do, it's brief and not terribly helpful AKA "the dealer fixed it and said it was the flux capacitor bla bla" For the record, The fix for me finally turned out to be the Windshield wiper motor itself.
So, if you have the same symptoms as described above, first off, I'm sorry. But, don't despair. It seems that your wiper malfunction is due to one or a combination of five things. I'll range them from Typically the solution as well as cheapest and easiest to last resort and "it's flat out gonna suck to be you"
1. The windshield Wiper Motor itself
2. The Fuse/ Diode/ Fuse Box itself
3. The Dash Column Multifunction Switch
4. The BCM
5. The wiring
So, The windshield wiper motor is the easiest to swap out, and replace. Just because your wipers are working does not mean it's not the motor. that motor is not just an on/off, it receives different signals on different pins and is usually the culprit. It's worth noting at this point that all of the signals to the windshield wiper motor go from the steering console multifunction switch THROUGH the BCM EXCEPT for the high setting which runs direct. This fact alone made me sure that it was not the fault of the motor, but as i was wrong, I am lead to believe that the motor receives and processes different signals on different pins from the plug. Anywhoo, pop your hood, remove both side faux intakes, lower hood, pop covers off windshield wiper arm brackets, remove windshield wiper arm bracket retaining nut, lift wiper arm away from windshield and give it a good little pop clockwise and arms should come off. set aside. next, pry upper center trim piece off. its just held on my retention clamps, then remove lower internal trim which is held on by four or five little black round pressure pins. be careful when removing lower trim as it holds your windshield wiper squirters and accompanying hoses. I just shifted it under the hood into the engine compartment so i didn't have to disconnect anything. Next up, undo the plug going into the windshield wiper motor, undo the two bolts holding the motor and transmission in place, slide whole assembly towards drivers side by about 1/2 inch then work it out. it comes out and goes back in at an angle. undo nuts, swap motor, loosely reinstall unit, plug motor in, turn key to AC and turn wipers on for a moment. Connect motor to transmission,and be sure the arm for the motor hub is pointing directly towards the driver side. This sets a good starting point for your wipers. reinstall bolts, trim, etc in reverse order and test.
If it's the fuse box, how do you know? well first, open up the fuse box and pull the diode (the fuse looking thing with the arrow on it) FYI the current only runs one way through this thing so note which direction its facing. check continuity on it with a meter, or replace it. next up is your windshield wiper fuse. look on the bottom of the lid to find which one to check. next is relay, when you click your wipers on, be it high, etc do they click? if so, good, either way, swap your relay for another to be sure. while you're pulling and checking stuff, look for corrosion on the fuses, the plugs, etc inside the box. especially if you have a broken lid like many do!!!!
The lids on these boxes are notorious for failing and with what a lot of us do, even during basic street use moisture will get in there and corrode. My lid was broken, god knows how long it was broken, so I opted for putting a whole new fuse box/ lid/ fuses/ relays/ etc in. This was my first attempt at a fix, and although pricey, i knew it needed to be done due to the amount of corrosion. Swappi9ng the box is not difficult and pretty straight forward as long as you pay attention. especially while removing the lower deck of fuses. pay attention to the plugs underneath the lower deck and make sure you've slid them up and out before sliding your new lower deck in. The last thing you want to do is is screw up those plugs/ pins. don't force anything! if it's not clicking in smoothly, stop, remove and take a peek. figure out whats hanging up.
if it's the dash column multiswitch, there are four screws in the bottom of your steering column. remove them and the shell around the column splits into two pieces. remove them, check the part number on the ring of the multiswitch and order a new one. you'll have to disconnect the air bags plug, remove the steering wheel air bags cover dealio, lock your wheels straight ahead, pull the nut and remove steering wheel, then disconnect and swap out multiswitch. then put everything back together. CAUTION! be careful while disconnecting airbags, and it would be best to pull your air bag fuse before doing any of this and not a bad idea to disconnect your battery as well as an extra precaution!! you also do not want that steering column to turn so that your wheel and tires line back up properly
If the other have been ruled out, it could be the BCM, in which case, off to the dealer you go, as they have the proper testing equipment, and will have to reprogram the new BCM to work with your vehicle. You Cannot just pull a used BCM form the junkyard. won't work. On a side note, the BCM is typically located behind the lower right front passenger footwell kick panel.
if it's wiring issues, aka broken, burnt, god knows what wires, then good luck to ya, don't have a clue, I hope you're good with that stuff and have a lot of patience, otherwise drop it off at a dealer, drop your pants and bend over. It aint gonna be pleasant. Only upside is this seems to be non existent, not saying it couldn't be a cause, it's just not terribly likely.
Sorry if this was long winded, Hopefully it puts all the info that i had to hunt for in an easier to find package, hopefully it helps, hopefully it works, hopefully it saves ya a couple bucks.
