Flush the fluid-"30,000 miles service" again

[davidh3]

I just got my H3 back ..

I saw the repair/service records. the cost is almost $4,000... Wow, it's really good to have warranty.
Warranty saved me thousands.

:whaa:

 

[06 H3]

What did they do? Just replace the carrier or an entire new front diff?

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[06 H3]

Nvm...saw the pic you posted. That sucks man glad its all fixed up though

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[davidh3]

09 H3: How come regular diff carrier is more expensive than the adv. diff carrier??
w/o locking diff : $2,396.14 w/ locking diff: $1,959.52

:huh: ..... I thought w/ locking diff the diff carrier should be more expensive because of the complexity. ??????

by the way, does Base 09 H3 has Cast Iron front diff carrier? I heard someone said "all 09 H3 models get CI front diff carrier"..

 

[MaxPF]

The carrier is the part inside the housing that holds the ring gear, spider gears, etc. It is made from nodular cast iron.

As for the rest, that's why they are called "stealerships". Those prices quoted for a carrier makes you realize just how overpriced many dealer items are. An E-locker from any aftermarket distributor is under $900. It is the exact, identical part to what the stealer sells, but the stealer wants to charge you $1000 more for it. $2400 for an open diff is just insane - it's a $200 part.

 

[davidh3]

The carrier is the part inside the housing that holds the ring gear, spider gears, etc. It is made from nodular cast iron.

As for the rest, that's why they are called "stealerships". Those prices quoted for a carrier makes you realize just how overpriced many dealer items are. An E-locker from any aftermarket distributor is under $900. It is the exact, identical part to what the stealer sells, but the stealer wants to charge you $1000 more for it. $2400 for an open diff is just insane - it's a $200 part.

hey MaxPF I agree with your stealership problem,

but I forgot to say that it was the whole front diff housing not only the carrier. sorry my bad..

you can check the part number shown in the picture . its really more than $2,000 and is more expensive than the one with locker.

 

[sinstr]

They need to make the extra money for that "Courtesy Wash"....

 

[Dennis]

Keeping within the topic of this thread..

I believe and practice this recommendation on all of my vehicle's maintenance schedules.. I change out all the fluids every 30,000 miles...You got to remember, that Car makers are in the business of selling new cars and parts..if you follow their maintenance schedule, you are following the bare minimum to keep the car going till at least the end of the warranty period..some don't even make it to then..But if you go a little above and beyond, you should in most cases enjoy a trouble free experience for the most part...I don't know about the rest of you, but I hate going to the dealer's service for a breakdown in something, warranty covered or not.

 

[alrock]

Dennis, I agreed that following the manufacturer's maintenance schedules is a good thing, and being more aggressive than that is even better. I disagree with following the dealer's maintenance schedules. They are often outdated and incorrect schedules, which is the point I've been trying to make here with David. An owner should start with what's in his owner's manual and not what is stated on the dealer's walls.

I also amend my schedules with gut instinct and common sense. Living here in the desert I know our fluids get taxed a bit more due to the heat. I realize that riding a lot of dusty trails can put more dirt (abrasives) into those fluids meaning I may check it more often. But again I start with a strong baseline which is what the manufacturer publishes for that vehicle.

 

[davidh3]

Dennis, I agreed that following the manufacturer's maintenance schedules is a good thing, and being more aggressive than that is even better. I disagree with following the dealer's maintenance schedules. They are often outdated and incorrect schedules, which is the point I've been trying to make here with David. An owner should start with what's in his owner's manual and not what is stated on the dealer's walls.

I also amend my schedules with gut instinct and common sense. Living here in the desert I know our fluids get taxed a bit more due to the heat. I realize that riding a lot of dusty trails can put more dirt (abrasives) into those fluids meaning I may check it more often. But again I start with a strong baseline which is what the manufacturer publishes for that vehicle.

:agree:

 

[MaxPF]

Dennis, I agreed that following the manufacturer's maintenance schedules is a good thing, and being more aggressive than that is even better. I disagree with following the dealer's maintenance schedules. They are often outdated and incorrect schedules, which is the point I've been trying to make here with David. An owner should start with what's in his owner's manual and not what is stated on the dealer's walls.

I also amend my schedules with gut instinct and common sense. Living here in the desert I know our fluids get taxed a bit more due to the heat. I realize that riding a lot of dusty trails can put more dirt (abrasives) into those fluids meaning I may check it more often. But again I start with a strong baseline which is what the manufacturer publishes for that vehicle.

This ^^^. Also keep in mind that the recommendations in the manual are for normal service. Climates like the AZ desert where Alex and I live should be considered severe service. Wheeling is severe service (vehicles should really have resettable hour meters). On the other hand, better fluids can allow you to stretch the interval, even under severe conditions.

 

[Kurt]

Don't forget the dealer has to cover warranty and labor if something happens to it, vs buying it 3rd party and installing it yourself. Dealership wholesale labor is less, but generally speaking, it's going to be expensive to operate a large shop. To put a mechanic in a bay, have training, overtime, insurance coverage, benefits, etc plus insurance for the shop, tools, power and machinery, I don' t know the "seat" cost of doing that. But I would expect around $70-75/hr per tech plus in a major city. Maybe less, so $100-120 per hour + whatever they decide to charge for parts.. if they charge wholesale or full retail. If it's warranty work then I expect retail.

As for the stealership thing, I find that depends with the guy who deals directly with the customers, the service writer or whoever... they may pad the bill or they may not, depends on the dealer.

I can't see the cost being $4000.. unless its going to insurance or warranty. That's not the "real" cost. If you were paying cash out of pocket you wouldn't be paying that.