BTW you can buy new seals for your calipers if you need (cheap). I think Rock Auto sells them. Calipers are easy to rebuild. Chances are they're like new inside but full of gummed up crystalized fluid and gunk. Worth taking apart and looking before you buy. You can usually pop off the outer dust seal, then pop out the pistons with compressed air. Most of the times I just clean the crap out of the calipers, remove and wipe off the o-ring ....and put it all together with the same parts and never had one leak again. But your pistons could be chrome plated steel too and possibly corroded (I think you can buy new pistons too). A lot of aftermarket calipers use cheap parts and you don't know where they come from. I mean you could be in AZ and get rust-pitted calipers that spent 12 yrs in Minnesota! I went to buy new calipers for my WJ Grand Cherokee last year and every one that came, except one (OReileys), were all rust-pitted and worn on the sliding areas (where the calipers slides). And they use cheap paint to mask it up. I ordered a couple replacements, and the same thing. They were worse than what I had. So I just disassembled the Jeep's calipers, cleaned and reassembled what I had. Most people probabbly wouldn't notice pitted calipers. But on our H3's it's a slightly different design, but still you need to check where the brake pads slide. In the rusty north, the salt will rust where the pads 'sit' and can create wear pits there after a while.
If you haven't disassembled calipers, it's easy. I suggest first removing all the dust boots. Carefully dig out with a small screwdriver or gasket scraper under the outer metal ring. Should be able to get them out w/o damaging them. Then press out one piston at a time, or work all of them out 1/4" at a time till they get near the end of the travel. If you have a 'frozen' piston, work that one out first. Then you can probably just remove the others with your fingers or gentle pliers work (with a rag to protect from marking the pistons). Don't just 'blow' them out (Pop!!) It might be phenolic (heat resistant (but non corrosive) plastic) and if you 'blow' it out, you could well chip crack or bust the brittle piston in half (um, I've done it! haha). And keep your fingers well out of the way!! Pay VERY close attention to the o-ring. Sometimes they appear to be square cut, but there's often a subtle rounded shoulder barely visible, you want to maintain the proper orientation when you put it back in. Once you do one caliper, you can do the next one in like 15 minutes. The advantage of cleaning and re-doing your own calipers is you know what you have for parts. Secondly OEM parts are usually better anyway. But obviously if your calipers or pistons are worn, replace them.
To keep brake fluid from running out of the hose, Cut a piece of rubber like from a bicycle inner tube ..say 3" long and an inch wide. After you remove the caliper from the brake hose, fold the rubber over the metal hose end (where the bolt clamps the hose to the caliper) and clamp the rubber with like a plastic spring clamp (pic below). Works great, keeps the fluid from running all over.
Make sure you keep fluid in your reservoir. Don't let it run dry. If you let air into the abs 'system' you'll need a scan tool to run the ABS through it's brake bleeding procedure. A good snap-on scanner can do it too. If you clamp off the hose with a rubber piece and keep fluid in the reservoir, you won't need to do that, and you can still bleed your brake normally after you put the caliper back on.
Sorry if you know all that already. I wanted to state it also for others reading the post now or in the future.
Good luck
