Difficult to start when engine is warm

[autumn walker]

So for the last week or two my truck has been difficult to start. First thing in the morning it's almost like a weak battery or a very cold morning - slow turnover, then starts.

If I'm out running errands and I try to start the truck while the engine is warm it almost won't turn over - VERY slow turnover and the lights all go dim in the cabin (like gauge cluster is basically not lit) and the lights pulse with the starter.

The volt gauge on the dash shows just over 14v while the truck is running and the battery reads 12.7v after sitting overnight, 11.7v with the headlights on (but truck turned off). I suspect that the issue might be the starter. Thoughts?

 

[Jrkilburn]

I would suspect the battery it's self with those meter readings. A battery load test would be the definitive answer. Local parts stir can do it or simply have an assistant start the truck while you watch the meter, if it falls to below 10volts while cranking over you'll need a new battery.

 

[Kyle]

I would suspect the battery it's self with those meter readings. A battery load test would be the definitive answer. Local parts stir can do it or simply have an assistant start the truck while you watch the meter, if it falls to below 10volts while cranking over you'll need a new battery.

+1.

 

[autumn walker]

OEM battery (2007) and 67,000 km on the truck (if that means anything).

 

[Kyle]

OEM battery (2007) and 67,000 km on the truck (if that means anything).

hmm yea have the battery checked!

 

[Jrkilburn]

You got your value out of that battery, 4 years is about the lifespan. Perfect time to upgrade to an optima yellow top!

 

[Zach]

Would have to agree on the battery. Especially with the age of it. I replace mine every few years just to be safe

 

[twinmill28]

My deuces battery has been on the back of my mind for about a year now---mine's also an '07with 55K on it and I've been waiting for it to take a crap. It's been running strong, so why do preventative maintenance now? I figure it'll wait until some inoppurtune time when I'm not near a store and in the middle of no-where to take it's final dump.

 

[Scarsman]

I agree on the battery. 4-5 years is pretty good for an OEM battery. Mine is an '05 and still on the original battery. :whaa: I am just hoping it holds out until I have the extra dough to spring for a gell cell type.

 

[MaxPF]

You got your value out of that battery, 4 years is about the lifespan. Perfect time to upgrade to an optima yellow top!

Optimas are total garbage. Read this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/electrical-wiring/913442-batteries-optima-alternatives.html

If you want an AGM battery, get an Odyssey, Sears DieHard Platinum (rebranded Odyssey), or a Deka Intimidator (rebranded by several outlets).

 

[autumn walker]

Went to start the truck last night, nothing gave a couple turns of the key and the truck had no power. Hooked it up to the Wife's SUV and the H2 fired right up - no starter drag or anything. So, I guess the battery is the issue.

My next question was recommended battery type / brand - I see that a lot of people are going AGM and anti Optima. Thoughts?

 

[08H3]

I have an Optima and have had no issues. It seems to have more reserve than any other battery I've every run, so I'm happy with it. Personally, I've found over the years that battery life varies greatly even among the same model. I don't know if it's hard to manufacture them consistently to spec, or there are too many variables from one vehicle to another, but I've just never seen any two batteries with the same performance or life.

 

[autumn walker]

Had the battery load tested - bad battery. Picked up a new battery, truck fired up. Hopefully that's the end of this.

 

[Kyle]

what battery did you end up going with?

 

[autumn walker]

Decided I'd try out a Kirkland battery (Costco). Some guys here are running them and are very happy with them. 1/2 the price of the OEM, dual post setup, made by Johnson Controls (same one who makes Optima, Duralast, etc).

36 month warranty, no questions asked. If it flakes out, I'll return it and get something else.

 

[autumn walker]

Actually, to provide more info on the battery - it's a Group 78 (OEM is Group 79) and has 850 CCA (OEM replacement is 840, factory was 880).

The Group 78 fits right in the OEM location, it's just a couple inches shorter than the Group 79, but still fits within the Group 79 mounts without modification.

 

[MaxPF]

My next question was recommended battery type / brand - I see that a lot of people are going AGM and anti Optima. Thoughts?

Optimas are AGM batteries. They just happen to have a spiral construction rather than a flat plate construction. Incidentally, flat plate construction is actually superior, despite Optimas marketing hype. The reason is simply the fact that batteries have rectangular cross sections, so flat plate construction provides a better fill ratio. In essence, a flat plate AGM battery will generally have a higher AH capacity vs a spiral construction batter like Optima.

Optimas used to be excellent batteries back in the 90's and early 2000's. They went to crap after Johnson Controls bought the company, tried to use cheaper materials and shortcuts, and ultimately moved the plant to Mexico. So, now when you but an Optima you pay a premium price for a crappy battery that is made in Mexico. If you buy an Odyssey/Diehard Platinum or a Deka, you are spending the same or less for a far better battery that is made in the USA. These days, Optima is simply surviving off of their past reputation and their marketing to people who simply don't know that much better options are available.