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diff rebuild / locker install

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
So now that the lift is done, I gotta start getting things in order for my rear axle. I wanna add a locker and figure I might as well install it with all new stuff. There's so many options for install kits and brands of ring and pinion sets. What's everyone recommend? How's the G2 stuff? Their install kits include timken bearings along with everything else needed. There's also Motive, Yukon and a bunch of other brands....
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Brand is not as critical as the installation. No matter what brand....a bad install will fail in short order. People naturally blame inferior parts but 9 of 10 times...it's probably the installation.

I'm running a USA Gear R&P in my 8.6, and a Yukon R&P in the D44. Since you are not re-gearing, you could keep the same ring & pinion...unless wear dictates a replacement. Stock GM gears are pretty nice, and I would rank them right up there with any of the aftermarket gears. Late model (after 2005 or so) GM gears are usually a 2-cut design and these use a much tighter backlash setting. If you go aftermarket, you will most likely be using a traditional 5-cut gear-set, and you will need to run it looser. Either style is suitable but, they have different backlash settings, so make sure you know which type you have so you can get it set-up correctly. 8.5 & 8.6 GM 10-bolts use the same ring & pinion...but not the same bearings. So if you are buying a "kit"...make sure its a specific 8.6 kit. If someone is advertising a dual purpose 8.5/8.6 "kit"...they are wrong. Only the R&P is the same. The pinion bearings and pinion seal is different on the 8.6. Also, 2009-up 8.6's use an updated larger inner pinion bearing. So make sure you get a 2000-2008 bearing kit.

The pinon seal is a two-piece design that uses a replaceable sleeve on the yoke casting, and a matching seal that gets pressed into the pumpkin. The seal on the pumpkin can be bought about anywhere...but the sleeve on the yoke can be tough to find. If you have a scored yoke, (like from a loose pinion) the sleeve should be replaced. You can get the sleeve from GM or from AAM.
 
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digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
thanks cj. i would be ok keeping the r+p gears as long as theyre in good shape. but im concerned theres abnormal wear on them from my pinion issue. perhaps not though. i talked to a local transmission shop that been around for a long time and the guy said hes never been into an H3 rear end. (he owns an H2). i told him its a gm 8.6 10-bolt thinking that was a common axle widely used. its tough these days finding someone you can trust to take a couple extra minutes to make sure things are as good as they can be.
as far as install kits, ive been staying away from the "combo" 8.5/8.6 kits and looking at strictly 8.6. do the master install kits come with pinion seals usually? the guy at the shop said i could bring in all my own parts and theyd do the install. i also emailed an old hummer tech that works at adventure accessories. its the guy goat just posted a thread about at hummerservice.com. im not sure if being a hummer guy makes any difference in the axle department or not....
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
This axle has been in every truck and full-size chevy since the late sixties (Camaros, Impalas, Chevelles, yada yada)...so Hummer-familiarity means nothing. Any good axle guy knows the 10-bolt, and should be able to hook you up. If you were just getting minor work done, I would say leave the axle under the truck. But, since you are installing a locker...it would go much easier if you got it up on a bench. You will need to drill a hole in the case for the locker wiring, and that is difficult to do under the truck.

There a few minor things that are Hummer specific, most notably the ABS tone rings that are inside the axle tubes. These are not difficult to deal with but, they are somewhat special to the Hummer. The shafts won't just "pull out" like other 10-bolts...they will need to be pried out from inside the large window in the carrier. This is because they are glued to the axle shafts at the factory. DON'T PRY THEM OUT AT THE ENDS OF THE TUBES....this will certainly destroy the axle seals. You need to remove the sensors before you pull the axles so the tips don't get damaged. Other than this and the late-style two-piece seal...its the same as any other 10-bolt.

Most install kits come with the pumpkin seal...but only GM or AMM sells the complete kit with the replacement yoke sleeve. Most of the time the sleeve is not needed. AAM makes great install kits...much nicer than any others out there. The shims are the big thick ones (like factory) so you don't need to use a stack of paper-thin ones...and they are COMPLETE kits. Check em out at:

http://www.demandaam.com/axle-results?vm=GM&q=8.6"+10+Bolt+-+Rear+Axle
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
well taking the axle out does not excite me... remember the brake lines we just put in...? im guessing i could pull the axle and hang the calipers from the frame to avoid disconnecting the lines... then just take the axle up to the shop. i pulled the axles once before to change the seals. do you have a link to the yoke sleeve by chance?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Go back one post and click the link.....there's all the stuff u need.
You can do the swap in the truck. It just takes more effort.
Those brake lines are toast...don't touch em!
 
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