CV/Half shaft ???’s... again.

[B.N.Z.MTNS]

Ive got that all to familiar popping sound on my driver side and I’m assuming that it’s the outer CV joint as it seems to be a common failure. So I am getting ready to buy a new half shaft assembly, but see a huge range in pricing. I know that the obvious answer is to just to stick with OEM, but at $250 each, I’m going to have to go with the $55-$75 units found on Rock Auto or at my local NAPA/O’Rilleys/CarQuest.

What are y’all using for replacements? Any of the aftermarket brands to stay away from? Best source?
I’m not using my rig for anything hardcore, just moderate high mountain trails and backwoods camping.

Someday I’d like to pony up the cash and put RCVs in there, but for now I’m stuck going the cheap route.

If there’s already a thread discussing aftermarket CVs, I didn’t find it. But feel free to post it up... I won’t take offense.

 

[Schwarttzy]

I use the cheapo ones. I warranted an Autozone one in the parking lot in under half hour. I also would pick a spare one before hitting the trails.

 

[B.N.Z.MTNS]

I use the cheapo ones. I warranted an Autozone one in the parking lot in under half hour. I also would pick a spare one before hitting the trails.

Even if I was outside warranty period, I could replace several cheap ones and still not pay what an OEM costs.

I do plan on a spare by summer, but I’ll also keep an old one to make plugs. On a 94’ GMC that I had, I tore apart the damaged CVs and kept the splined/flanged ends to use as plugs until I could get another in there... no 4wd, but a temporary fix if I need to pull a busted shaft and still want to keep fluid where it belongs.

 

[Chimpy]

I bought one for my driver side as well from O'Reillys. I was fortunate enough to catch mine leaking grease from under the large outer boot clamp of all places. There is a local shop that specializes in driveline component repair/rebuild that I have used for years. The guy that has worked there basically forever told me years ago that the parts stores CV shafts were all about the same, not great but not bad, just not as good as OEM. I will be taking my OEM CV to him to get rebuilt. He told me if it wasn't popping when I took it out, he can rebuild it for about $50. Now I will have a spare. Good luck with yours.

 

[rascole]

Cardone Select 66-1417, new CV from Amazon. RCV are nice but huge expense.

 

[Traxx]

After wearing out the Cardone in less than 10k I replaced with oem, should have known better.

 

[alrock]

I've had good luck with Cardones but as Traxx pointed out, we all have different experiences. I've watched EMPI snap on easy stuff. I've seen Cardones stiffen at the CV way too early. I'm still running Cardones but may go back to OEM at some point.

It's an interesting argument of $50 vs. $250, and that one could buy five for the price of one. But if the aftermarket ones fail prematurely, is it worth the possible consequences of a tow truck ride, a truck that can't be driven, fixing it on the side of the road/trail in 30-60 minutes (if you know what you're doing and have the tools)? For each person, that answer is going to to be different and like I said, I'm running Cardones. I haven't tracked my usage but I've probably swapped out two or three. One after a full failure (driver induced) and a couple where I could feel the loss of movement in the CV. That's over about a five year period.

 

[rascole]

Has anyone on H4O converted to the RCV's?

 

[Zach]

Has anyone on H4O converted to the RCV's?

The indestructible half shaft? Personally, I wouldn't. Was a discussion with the 2's awhile back. I'd rather snap a half shaft than a diff. Half shaft easy fix on the trail than a diff

 

[rascole]

Yeah, I've read numerous threads but I can't find 1 actual user. I understand the fuse concept but if the stock CV is a 1 amp fuse and the RCV is a 5 amp fuse what amp is the diff? 10 amp? Haven't seen the proof to all the fuse talk.

 

[B.N.Z.MTNS]

Good points on the weak link. I remember on my 94’ GMC I broke the top aluminum mountin the front diff with just 35 BFG M/Ts. I was hard on that truck with no locker. I got most places with RPMs and lots of steering to find traction which resulted in lots if Half shaft replacements and eventually a front diff.

I don’t plan on horse whipping my H3 like that, so hopefully I can find a little better lifespan on these CVs.
I think I’ll try the best one O’Reillys carries and see how it goes.

 

[5gn-h3t]

I've run the cheapest eBay shafts I could find on 2 different H3's but sold both with only about 25k miles on the CV's. I know it wasn't many miles but I did some decent off-roading and never had an issue.

 

[B.N.Z.MTNS]

Well....

i thought it it might be a CV, but it was not consistent enough to be sure. In fact in the last couple of days since the noise started, it only makes the popping noise 3 or 4 times during any 15 mile jaunt around town. So I decided to go out to public lands and put it in 4 hi/4 lo to do some testing.
About a half hour of off camber, twisty, roads and small rock ledges, it did not make the noise once. I did plenty of tight turning uphill, downhill, moguls causing wheel spin and nothing made any noise. I would think if it was a CV that I would have heard it plenty of times during my testing.
:huh:

So, now I am perplexed at what the noise has been over the last few days.
Any ideas or suggestions what to look for next? Any other common issues up front that I have not discovered during my brief search in cyberville?

Thanks in advance.

 

[alrock]

Yeah, I've read numerous threads but I can't find 1 actual user. I understand the fuse concept but if the stock CV is a 1 amp fuse and the RCV is a 5 amp fuse what amp is the diff? 10 amp? Haven't seen the proof to all the fuse talk.

Ask 4speed his opinion of the front diff. Doubt he'll give it a 1.

 

[lowtrac]

I’ve used Wearever gold, Carquest and Cardone. All on the driver’s side. I broke them all driving with a melted shift fork with the exception of the Cardone. It’s still in there and going strong. It is a tad longer than the other aftermarket ones I’ve used.


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[lowtrac]

As for your noise, have you jacked it up and checked for play in the hub?


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[B.N.Z.MTNS]

As for your noise, have you jacked it up and checked for play in the hub?

Thats on my agenda for tomorrow. But wouldn’t any hub bearing issues be a more consistent sound. This is definitely a loud, rotating, metal on metal sound I’m hearing, but I didn’t think a hub issue would be so random and sporadic... but then again, I’ve never had a vehicle with a hub out either.

 

[Bruces]

Maybe dust shield on front brake

 

[4speedfunk]

Or front driveshaft.

 

[kamikazi]

I had the same problem finding any old posts. Hardcore offroaders recommend sticking to the OEM but I have gone with the cheaper "Chinese" rebuilds (who knows if the OEM Shafts aren't made in China?). The first set I ordered was not right but I ordered them from ABC Autoparts on Amazon. One of them I received the knuckle joint was separated and he offered to send me a boot and make the repair myself but I opted to have it replaced. I did have to go back through Amazon to get the shipping cost reimbursed. There are several videos and links for doing the replacement. Only issue I had was that I needed an 23mm socket to tighten the new nuts but rented it from O'Rielly's. Haven't had any problems since

[FONT=&quot]DriveTech
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][h=1]Drive Tech GM-2580 CV Joint Half Shaft[/h]
[/FONT]

 

[humvee]

When my front drive shaft went, I bought an oem replacement, which was AAM from the dealer. It lasted 3k miles. I just purchased a $42 Chinese cv boot replacement off eBay to install it myself, I couldn’t get myself to spend 130 on an AAM boot.
Will post pictures


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[Chimpy]

My experience with hub/wheel bearings is that they produce more of a "roaring" sound and if you turn the steering back and forth while driving it will get louder then get quieter depending on which hub is the suspect one. Basically shifting the load of the vehicle itself from left to right.