Cheapest 37" tires

[Panzer07]

I wonder if thats for a street queen? I would guess it fits until you start flexing the suspension offroad.

And I'd say that rig us a street queen. Rubbing would be out of control when flexing out in the trails...if even with 35 i rub like a MoFo.

Someone mentioned running 37's no lift well this guy kinda did it lol, i believe he has shackles and a tbar crank running stock rims and 37' super swampers View attachment 16216View attachment 16217 1.5 schackles in the rear to be exact

Did he put the rims inside out ?? Second picture


Torres


Edited...
Nvrmind lol I just took a closer look.

 

[digglesworth]

Yeah. That the tire sittin propped up next to the one that one. Lol.

I have a 1" body lift and 2" shackles in the rear. I bet I could get 37s under my truck and eliminate most of the rubbing with a set of spacers on the stock rims. My rear tire doesn't make it in the little indent when flexing out in the rear into the inner fender liner with the body lift. And the front sway bar is a given. But alas, I have a 3.5 so I'll never know what it's like to be on 37s...

 

[alrock]

I'm confused on one of the basic points of this thread? Are you talking retreads or military takeoffs? Your first post shows ads for takeoffs but then you quickly switch to discussing how retreads are safe. The safety of retreads is irrelevant if you're trying to buy takeoffs. And Zach's point of date codes is right on target if you're talking takeoffs.

Also, you stated that an H1 is more prone to the problems of the military takeoffs - yes and no. 3Hummers had a good post once about the difficulty of balancing those tires and unbalanced tires and a lousy ride would be more evident in an H3 than in an H1.

The supply of 16.5 tires is going to get more and more scarce. But, if you like spending your hard earned money into disappearing technology, then can I sell you my Blackberry, Zip drives and a whole case of Slick 50?

 

[derian06]

I'm confused on one of the basic points of this thread? Are you talking retreads or military takeoffs? Your first post shows ads for takeoffs but then you quickly switch to discussing how retreads are safe. The safety of retreads is irrelevant if you're trying to buy takeoffs. And Zach's point of date codes is right on target if you're talking takeoffs.

Also, you stated that an H1 is more prone to the problems of the military takeoffs - yes and no. 3Hummers had a good post once about the difficulty of balancing those tires and unbalanced tires and a lousy ride would be more evident in an H3 than in an H1.

The supply of 16.5 tires is going to get more and more scarce. But, if you like spending your hard earned money into disappearing technology, then can I sell you my Blackberry, Zip drives and a whole case of Slick 50?

I was confused with the military take offs and the re-treads. I was looking at both options, not just a single one. As far as problems go, I could care less if the ride isn't as smooth. I was talking about blow outs. But i'm not looking at military take offs anymore, or beadlocks. Once 06H3 posted the options for 16" rim and 37-38" tire, I decided to just keep the stock rims and save up for some stt's or km2's.

As far as the disappearance of 16.5 tires, why would they disappear? I have no background knowledge on the 16.5's.

 

[Woodtick]

Hey Alrock,do you have a stock pile of those sweet Crome dual wiper blades? I can't find them anywhere. I find it hard to believe they stopped making them.:huh:

 

[rsc]

As far as the disappearance of 16.5 tires, why would they disappear? I have no background knowledge on the 16.5's.

Because no one uses a 16.5" rim anymore, its either 15", 16" or 17" for offroad and most trucks from the factory. They are fading away like Beta did in the 80's.

 

[rsc]

Yeah. That the tire sittin propped up next to the one that one. Lol.

I have a 1" body lift and 2" shackles in the rear. I bet I could get 37s under my truck and eliminate most of the rubbing with a set of spacers on the stock rims. My rear tire doesn't make it in the little indent when flexing out in the rear into the inner fender liner with the body lift. And the front sway bar is a given. But alas, I have a 3.5 so I'll never know what it's like to be on 37s...

I have shackles, a t-bar crank and 35's and the 35's still kiss the rear inner fender, 37's would definitely need a body lift as a minimum. I bet it could be driven down the road, just not offroad.

 

[alrock]

Hey Alrock,do you have a stock pile of those sweet Crome dual wiper blades? I can't find them anywhere. I find it hard to believe they stopped making them.:huh:

I got your chrome ones, your lime green ones and your white ones. Comes with a free pager (subscription required)

Because no one uses a 16.5" rim anymore, its either 15", 16" or 17" for offroad and most trucks from the factory. They are fading away like Beta did in the 80's.

Betamax for the win! Along with LaserDisc, HD DVD and DVD camcorders

 

[Zach]

I got your chrome ones, your lime green ones and your white ones. Comes with a free pager (subscription required)

I'll take a set of white ones to match the 2 and the free pager. It better have batteries with it

 

[derian06]

I just measured my 315's while on the rig, and they were 33" exactly... Is this normal? I mean with 5000+ pounds on them it does make sense.

 

[rsc]

Lift one wheel into the air, measure circumferance of the tire and do the math to find the radius and double that for height. Any tire will be "shorter" with a load on it.

 

[alrock]

I just measured my 315's while on the rig, and they were 33" exactly... Is this normal? I mean with 5000+ pounds on them it does make sense.

Might make sense to start at the mfr website to see what the actual starting size was. None of our 35s are actually 35.

Btw, I know you've moved off the 16.5s, but before you toss out the need for a nice ride try scraping off your wheel weights and driving around for a month. That's what you can get with some tires that cannot balance properly

 

[06 H3]

Most 35s dont measure out to be. Mine are 34.6 new and are now worn and with weight on em they are probably near a 33.

My current struggle is this. Stock backspacing is 5.83 I have 1.75in spacers on to make it 4.08. If I go with a 37x12.5x16 Trxus MT I can use stock rims. If I go with the 365/75r16 KM2 (38x14.5x16) I need to lessen the backspacing, which means I need new rims and an aluminum rim goes for 100-110 a rim I might as well get some 16x8 allied 8 beadlocks for 180ish a rim. But now if I go with a 16in beadlock I am stuck with a 16 for a very long time because I am not about to purchase 17s a few years later. So will 37+ tires in a 16 be around for a while? they are already scarce but I dont like going up in rim size decisions decisions...

 

[derian06]

Most 35s dont measure out to be. Mine are 34.6 new and are now worn and with weight on em they are probably near a 33.

My current struggle is this. Stock backspacing is 5.83 I have 1.75in spacers on to make it 4.08. If I go with a 37x12.5x16 Trxus MT I can use stock rims. If I go with the 365/75r16 KM2 (38x14.5x16) I need to lessen the backspacing, which means I need new rims and an aluminum rim goes for 100-110 a rim I might as well get some 16x8 allied 8 beadlocks for 180ish a rim. But now if I go with a 16in beadlock I am stuck with a 16 for a very long time because I am not about to purchase 17s a few years later. So will 37+ tires in a 16 be around for a while? they are already scarce but I dont like going up in rim size decisions decisions...

Why would you need to lessen the backspacing? Would it be unsafe?

 

[06 H3]

Im running a solid axle up front. My reasons are for rubbing purposes. you may not have that issue.

 

[derian06]

Im running a solid axle up front. My reasons are for rubbing purposes. you may not have that issue.

What are your thoughts on how wide our rims are?

 

[06 H3]

The rim width isnt the concern its the backspacing, how far off the rim is on the hub. For hub longevity the closer the better so our stock rims work perfect for life of a hub but 99% of wheelers (all the jeep and toyota guys) rarely run as much backspacing as us. They are all in the 3.0 to 3.75 range. Stock we are 5.83in of backspacing and zero offset. Offset is another measure for how far its off the hub. It can be confusing. For me, I ran probably 30-40k miles on the rancho lift with 1.75in spacers bringing backspacing down to 4.08 with no ill effects. When I did the solid axle swap I noticed my hubs were in need of replacing but they also had 90-95k on the clock before the rancho lift. I definitely got a good life out of them, around 130k. For me my backspacing is to avoid rubbing the tire on the lower control arm. You dont have that issue, we have totally different setups, I have the solid axle swap. If you went to a wider tire you may hit the inside of the sidewall on the knuckle but I cant confirm that because everyone I know of with a rancho kit runs 12.5 in wide and a 1.75in spacer with no issue. not sure if a 13.5 or 14.5 would hit the knuckle and sidewall.

My other option is to do bent control arms like the stock JK arms are like. They do it to avoid tire rub. Its pretty common for solid axle vehicles.

 

[derian06]

The rim width isnt the concern its the backspacing, how far off the rim is on the hub. For hub longevity the closer the better so our stock rims work perfect for life of a hub but 99% of wheelers (all the jeep and toyota guys) rarely run as much backspacing as us. They are all in the 3.0 to 3.75 range. Stock we are 5.83in of backspacing and zero offset. Offset is another measure for how far its off the hub. It can be confusing. For me, I ran probably 30-40k miles on the rancho lift with 1.75in spacers bringing backspacing down to 4.08 with no ill effects. When I did the solid axle swap I noticed my hubs were in need of replacing but they also had 90-95k on the clock before the rancho lift. I definitely got a good life out of them, around 130k. For me my backspacing is to avoid rubbing the tire on the lower control arm. You dont have that issue, we have totally different setups, I have the solid axle swap. If you went to a wider tire you may hit the inside of the sidewall on the knuckle but I cant confirm that because everyone I know of with a rancho kit runs 12.5 in wide and a 1.75in spacer with no issue. not sure if a 13.5 or 14.5 would hit the knuckle and sidewall.

My other option is to do bent control arms like the stock JK arms are like. They do it to avoid tire rub. Its pretty common for solid axle vehicles.

So the actual width of the rim doesn't make a difference in whether or not you could actually hold air in the tire. That was the biggest concern I had. Aren't there simple measurements I could take to figure out whether or not rubbing would be an issue?

 

[rsc]

Rim width does matter. If its too narrow or too wide the bead can be pulled off the rim when aired down. The H3 rims have a "double flange" design to hold the bead better at low air pressures. That is part of the reason 35's work on our rims even though technically they are too narrow.