• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Cheap CV's?

frumaker

Well-Known Member
Messages
455
Location
killeen, tx
hell yeah it is. if I still had the hummer I would be driving there tomorrow. at the very least you would have 2 spares. for more details on if that kind is good or not, i'm sure you will get a lot of answers on here
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
hell yeah it is. if I still had the hummer I would be driving there tomorrow. at the very least you would have 2 spares. for more details on if that kind is good or not, i'm sure you will get a lot of answers on here

Just what I needed to hear, checking if he still got them and where he's located.
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
If you need someone to meet him let me know. I am in Dallas and will be headed to Waco for the weekend. I can pay for them and bring them as far as Waco.

Thanks for the offer but I might have to head up to the dallas airport tomorrow, if that doesn't happen I'll let you know.
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
Anywher I can get exact information on the CV such length, spline count and stuff like that. I'm not planning to take the T but I want to make sure I'm getting the correct part.
 

Reloader

Well-Known Member
Messages
413
Location
Montana a free state
I carry an Empi axle for a spare and that part number 80-1525 is the same as mine. I am actually running that axle now and it fit perfectly. It has rubber boots instead of the OE plastic ones. I installed it to replace one with a leaking boot. I think I paid $85 plus shipping from Rock Auto a couple years ago. They may have come down in price by now.
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
Well I got everything for $80 bucks, he was selling $60 each but came down when I had only $80 on me. I lucked out thinking it was $60 for everything and the CV's are still zip tied in the box. Hell of a deal and this was a steal so now I can wheel with a piece of mind having a back up on the spot. Quick question, when removing the spindle would I remover the top ball joint or bottom? I always go for the bottom but would like some into and tips.
 
Last edited:

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
I carry an Empi axle for a spare and that part number 80-1525 is the same as mine. I am actually running that axle now and it fit perfectly. It has rubber boots instead of the OE plastic ones. I installed it to replace one with a leaking boot. I think I paid $85 plus shipping from Rock Auto a couple years ago. They may have come down in price by now.

I thought the boot felt odd!!! Rubber would seem to be better then that OEM plastic.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,674
Location
Scottsdale
I now remove top and bottom. The extra work is better for me than trying to shoehorn it in. Plus, with the added length CVs I have not been able to do it without doing both top and bottom
 

Reloader

Well-Known Member
Messages
413
Location
Montana a free state
What alrock said. When I have one on the hoist, I can usually force the axle out and in with only the top ball joint separated, but on the ground I would do both.
You got a smoken deal on those axles and seals. Those seals looked like National seals and thats a good quality brand. The GM ones are $20 retail at a dealer.
And I think the rubber boots flex more freely but can be damaged easier by say a stick getting jammed up in there. So its 6 of one and half a dozen of another on boot composition.
one nice thing about buying new axles is no core charge. When i installed my new Empi axle I only separated the top joint but I also disconnected lower shock mount to allow the suspension to droop a little more giving me a bit more room to get slightly longer axle in place.
 
Top