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Body lift?

H3HummerLineX

Well-Known Member
Messages
357
Location
SoCal, Chatsworth
The rear gap I will lineX where is shows. The Rock sliders im going to angle up about 1 inch and weld in a close out so you will not see any frame..
 

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Last edited:

Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
Stupid question but what's the reason for a body lift especially if you were using a Rancho 4" lift?

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Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
^ gotcha , you did the body lift to clear 37's. But i believe some people on here have a Rancho lift with a body lift also? Is the main purpose to fit bigger tires or is there more to a body lift?

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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
For what I gather 37's still rub against the fenders or wheel well when flexing. I know my 35's did prior to the rancho lift. 37's on stock suspension would definitely rub a lot without the body lift, not that they won't be rubbing anymore with the body lift when flexing but it would be less, also I believe turning radius would be compromise, since the fire will most definitely hit the side under plastic mold appliances, I believe that's why Darin removed his.


Torres
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
For what I gather 37's still rub against the fenders or wheel well when flexing. I know my 35's did prior to the rancho lift. 37's on stock suspension would definitely rub a lot without the body lift, not that they won't be rubbing anymore with the body lift when flexing but it would be less, also I believe turning radius would be compromise, since the fire will most definitely hit the side under plastic mold appliances, I believe that's why Darin removed his.


Torres

That is only with aftermarket wheels. I am running stock wheels and 37" tires with 1" bodylift.
 

h3 on40s

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Delaware
Time will tell. When I only had my t-bars cracked and 1 inch body lift I would rub the frame and the fender slightly at full lock. I have 4.5 inch back space and 1.5 inch spacer but that was with 37 inch nito mud graplers. When I moved up to the 2 inch blocks I just rubbed the frame but the nitos measure 14.6 even though they say 13.5 on them
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Move DIY bumper fixed my 1" gap, because I moved the mounts one inch down. did H3on40's let you know how to fix the plastic bumper?
 

h3 on40s

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Delaware
Looks good. The blocks will do the trick but it just moves the gap from the top to the bottom. Hiding the gap on the bottom it much easier. If u go to h3 on 40s thread their r pics of my truck. I believe page 5 or 6. My winch hides the gap well but their r pics of it on 37"s without the winch and the gap is exposed, so u can see it will b easy to hide. Ur 3 looks great. I wish I lived closer to anyone on this forum. It would b great hang out and wheel with another h3. Also then people could see I'm not full of s#*t . My 3 handles 40 well and after 2 years on them I'm sill getting 14 mpg but again goodyear Kevlars areally pretty light tires. Very nice truck bubba.
 

h3 on40s

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Delaware
Just a thought, 2 pieces of Dimond plate and a couple small angle brackets. Paint it black. It would screw flush to the lip of ur bumper and the angle would fasten it to the grill. The larger center gap will help with air flo. Just a thought.
 

H3HummerLineX

Well-Known Member
Messages
357
Location
SoCal, Chatsworth
I think that would be a little too much LOL. I was doing the measurements an the 1x12 or 13 inch wide single row light bars will fit in there nicely and I think it would look really good. I need to do something to close out that gap


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H3HummerLineX

Well-Known Member
Messages
357
Location
SoCal, Chatsworth
Ahh. Sorry. I was talking about the gap under the rear door. Lol

After the bumper mod a 35" will go in that space under the plastic bumper.


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