Battery / Battery Terminals...?

[H3ALPHA]

Hi all, been awhile.

OK, battery seems to be dead. Terminals were all covered in that wonderful white stuff. Took off the terminals, cleaned, etc. and now charging.

OEM battery, looking for something better, etc. but the yellow top, etc. that what once suggested no longer is available for a 2010 H3 Alpha.

Additionally, recall reading to change the terminals. See on here to purchase Stingers.

Now, is there a particular type that needs to purchased (other than to ensure a positive and negative)?

Also, how hard is it to install?

My shop just quoted me for the battery (interstate) $220 (Insterstate).

But we have been having issues with truck. with ABS failure, etc. and wondering if the terminals also need to be replaced, again, how hard is it?

Also, what type of battery is needed for an H3.

 

[alrock]

The H3 can easily accommodate either group 75 or 86 batteries. This is what I have in mine: https://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...ruck/hummer/h3/2006/l5-3.5l-640cca/sli75dtagm

There are different types of battery terminals. Some require special crimping tools, others are installed with just screws holding everything in place. If you get these (including the Stinger) be sure to double check the tightness of the screws every now and then.

For the install of new terminals, you have to cut the old ones off just past the metal terminal end. Before you do that, be sure there's enough slack that if you cut the end, thus shortening the wires, that you can still reach the terminals. Get good wire cutters, and cut off the end. Trim back the insulation about 1 cm, put into terminal holes and tighten. A best practice is to put a little bit of dielectric grease in the holes before putting in the wires to minimize future corrosion.

Most battery terminals are either positive or negative since the battery posts are different sizes. Stinger says their terminals work on both but I'm not sure how they make that happen.

 

[Jeepwalker]

What do your teminals look like now? If they have just a little corrosion apply some phosphate solution to them (link below) ...and sizzle the fuzz away. Neutralize with water of course. In LA they shouldn't get too corroded I wouldn't think. Post a pic...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Ku...oz-Rust-Remover-and-Inhibitor-MR086/202935859

 

[Happy Hummer]

I actually go to vato zone for my batteries. They work gr8. I always buy the longest term warranty ones they carry. Price is much cheaper too!

I still have the positive oem terminal but have modified it to clamp better/tighter. Changed out the negative side though. Clean terminals are a lot better than fancy ones lol!

 

[Jeepwalker]

The dude-meister who owned my H3 previously put on some real crappy universal batt cables which were awful. They weren't even clamped snug. Wires frayed all over the place. I installed some nice clamps, soldered the wires in. A propane torch with Mapp gas will work. First ya 'tin' the leads then solder them into the cable-ends. They look nice and work fantastic. Plus you can add accessory wires and extra grounds while yer at it. I think this is what I bought (below). They have a nice zinc plating that didn't burn off when I soldered them. 3yrs later in WI winters they still look great, not corroded at all.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291931341739

 

[Mr_Rich]

Here's an example of what I did on my 3T. I found terminals at an electrical supply store and I cut off the stock ends and crimped copper terminals with compound jaw pliers like used to crimp terminals on coax cable. The pliers worked well on those copper terminals on the battery cables. H3 battery cables are expensive so crimping terminals like I did was cost effective.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Those turned out really great! Looks 'pro'. The neat part is you can add more accessory connectors if you need to. Nice job.

Here's how I tackled mine. Solder the wires in the terminals per the reply (above). What you can't see is I applied urethane to the back of the terminals under the tape ..to make them waterproof. Hey, it looks like they slightly redesigned the battery box on the 3T (or later H3s). I never figured out what the purpose of the vented battery box is. Keep the battery from getting hot?? ...Or just look cool :thumbs:

 

[H3ALPHA]

View attachment 27837View attachment 27838Here's an example of what I did on my 3T. I found terminals at an electrical supply store and I cut off the stock ends and crimped copper terminals with compound jaw pliers like used to crimp terminals on coax cable. The pliers worked well on those copper terminals on the battery cables. H3 battery cables are expensive so crimping terminals like I did was cost effective.

Mine look the top one, but not as much powder.

Cleaned them off with a steel brush, while not perfect, it took the charge which has lasted as I write.

The OEM terminals, I've known this forever, have always caused issues. Been dealing with ABS, etc. issues for a few years after I had a pro install a new head unit.

So, terminals will definitely be changed, but looking into what is best, not show car stuff. Many have recommended stingers, but I do not see a way to get jump cables on'em, so still looking for something that will be the highest grade and something I can install without making more problems for myself.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Put some impregnated battery terminal protector washers under your terminals. (like I did on mine) Stops corroded terminals.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/NOCO-Bat...0aE6KG1gN5EcG42wzPQaAnAnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Exodus]

I still have the original terminals on mine @115k with no problems
key is,,soak terminals in a warm water\baking soda mix and after dry put Deoxit on the terminal's,spendy stuff but the results are there

 

[Jeepwalker]

I still have the original terminals on mine @115k with no problems
key is,,soak terminals in a warm water\baking soda mix and after dry put Deoxit on the terminal's,spendy stuff but the results are there

:thumbs: