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$639.99 Eaton E-Locker

CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
Wrong link. I'll edit my original post when I get back to my computer. I have the correct one sitting on the floor of my office.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Its kind of pricey, if it is for the rear should go with the Ox locker


Torres

Um, $640 for the Eaton, or $860 for the Ox? Not sure how the Eaton is pricey compared to the Ox, especially when you consider that price for the Ox is just the locker, you still have to pay more money for the shifter and cables and install kit. While it looks like a really, really nice locker, dang that thing is pricey! You're easily adding another $200 or so to the cost of the Ox to get everything else you need for it, and that's going with the cheaper manual shifter.
 
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06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Ox will pay for itself. The eatons design is destined to fail....Bebe went through 4-5 of the eatons I'm on my 2nd. They work great but eventually they fail depending on the use. If your not wheeling hard go for the eaton. I picked mine up cheap for about 450 with the wiring harness but spent some money on a rebuild. I have pics of the ground down pins and side gears
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I didn't realize the Eatons were that weak. This is why I wait so long to pick stuff up, I don't want to end up dropping money on something I'm just going to have to repair/replace earlier than I should have to.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
They do survive if u know how they work. Any time you want to lock it lock it before u your already in the obstacle needing more traction. If your spinning one tire then lock it and now as it locks it puts a ton of load on the side gear and pins eventually they wear out. Also any time you change direction (reverse or forward) it unlocks then re locks...so if you lock it before an obstacle to avoid crash locking it and don't hit the right line and gotta back up it will unlock then re lock possibly putting a ton of stress on the side gear and pin again depending how bound up you are. If you wheel in muddy conditions the mud will help in longevity because it won't bind as much. In the dry rock I wheel in so cal when I'm bound up and need to lock it a ton of load is on it. So driving accordingly will make it last. Also 35s put less stress on the eaton as well compared to 37s/38s like Bebe, CJ and I.

If I got another deal at 450 for an e locker would I do it again? Certainly...it's half the cost of an ox but if it's within a couple hundred bucks you can scratch off 100 bucks because you get a rock proof diff cover with ox so that's some of the cost. Then one rebuild your now near ox cost.

I run an ox locker in my Dana 44 up front and love it. I keep it cable lever. Once it's locked it's a spool, front back doesn't matter it's locked and that's that. Also if u rip a cable or have electrical issues if you run the electric setup they sell a 25 dollar drive away lock that plugs into the housing and permanently locks it.

But also remember eaton did come up with a new design the 4pin vs the old 2 pin e locker that h3s came with in the adv. package. That is less susceptible to these issues. So if u get an eaton 4pin those will be better then the old generation
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I'm pretty sure those newer 4-spider versions are for floating shafts only (front D44's). If you have c-clips, you need the 2-spider version. I've installed several 4-spider versions, and they use an "x" cross pin that does not slide out like a traditional 2-spider version....so thee is no way to access the c-clips.
If you have a rear D44 with c-clips, you can get an eliminator kit that converts the shafts to bolt-in style with bearing plates. That would allow you to run the 4-spider version.
 
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