H3 Stabil Trac Error... still

This began back some time ago...

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ervice-Stabilitrac-in-DIC-only-when-below-32*

GF's 84k 06 H3
Early am hours she starts the h3 and she gets a brief Stabil [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]Trac[/FONT][/FONT] Error...
We have been addressing many items with this h3 & it is realy agravaiting to say the least.

All the following are addressed:
MAF cleaned
TB cleaned
[FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]Intake[/FONT][/FONT] cleaned
All connections cleaned and checked (DVM'd as many circuits as posible)
Clean air filter
New battery and connectors
New spark plugs and #1 coil replaced
MAF connector (weather pac disassemb and cleaned)
Reset all codes

Truck is running really pretty good but [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]DIC[/FONT][/FONT] keeps coming up each morning.
One other thing...
It happens under 37* & now only for brief moments. Only for 1st start of the day.

Any thoughts?


Chris

We have yet to check these items:
ABS Sensor, Encoder Motor, Unit bearings.
Chris

for me it was a wheel speed sensor, but being sporadic that would seem odd.


Does it go into 4LO?

All of the stuff on your list is pertaining to the motor. A stabilitrac failure usually has more to do with suspension sensors.

First I would check the position of your steering wheel. The computer knows what angle your steering wheel is operating at, and if your wheel is off more than 15-degrees when you're driving straight down the road...the computer reads this as being "out of calibration" and throw's the code. That's most likely the issue. Common causes for a crooked wheel are: a bent tie rod, a broken steering rack, worn rack bushings, or just a bad alignment. If your wheel is not centered...one of these components is most likely the culprit.

However, if your steering wheel is centered...the code can be caused by the steering wheel position sensor itself, especially since the code is intermittent and seems to be tied to the outside air temperature. Do you park this truck outdoors? The Steering wheel position sensor is a little gizmo at the base of steering column, just inside the cabin. It uses magnetic "hall effect" and works just like an ABS sensor out at the wheels, and it sends a signal to the computer. Its possible that it has been kicked, bumped, or its just plain worn-out. Check the connection on it first...that might be all it takes to fix it. Here's what it looks like:



Repairing...
Changing this critter is a tad complicated...you have to pull the entire column, (it installs over the end of the steering shaft). Its not hard to do...just very tight working space under there. YOU MUST CENTER THE WHEEL AND LOCK THE COLUMN before you pull it. A new sensor costs about $90 and it comes out of the box "pre-centered" with a lock-pin installed in it. Only after you get the new sensor installed (on the bench), and the column back in the truck, can you pull the lock-pin out. Its very critical that the front wheels, the column, and the steering wheel are all in the proper "centered" position when making this repair. Some people may try to tell you that it can be "re-calibrated" via the Diagnostic port. That is total b.s...it must be hard-swapped with a new sensor. Check the connection to it first. If you still have problems, this may be the cause.

Mine was a bad sensor on top of the brake pedal assembly.

Same here...mine started doing it off and on when I would apply the brakes to come to a stop - I'd get the "stabilitrac system failure" on the DIC & my taillights wouldn't work. It would reset itself, go away, then come back on a few stoplights later.

My problem was a bad "stop lamp brake pedal switch" - GM part #15914909. Easy fix, covered under warranty. If your service rep. starts giving you a song and a dance, tell them to start with that easy diagnosis - as the code that they will pull up, will confirm that is the problem - if that is the problem. Good luck. let us know what your or the service dept. comes up with.

I had a faulty brake-light switch too, at only 1500 miles. However, it didn't set any code. Instead it manifested itself in the cruise control...at times the CC would refuse to come-on or set. I actually took it into the dealer complaining about the CC problem, and they are the ones that diagnosed it. I guess it makes sense, because the brake light switch cancels the CC...it was sticking "closed" and completing the circuit so the CC would not work.

Logic cannot be overstated when trouble-shooting these electronic loops.

Yes all of the items listed were done for many reasons some related others directly to repair & correct some serious problems with engine. Other threads are posted that cover these.
Would the brake switch be at fault even if it works?
This is the 1st Ive read, heard about the steering...
Chris

yes, that brake switch could be the issue. Saw it happening in Bigunit's truck, His brake lights weren't working at the same time, but the transmission lock still worked. (Depress brake to move from Park)