Installation of new H/U with pics and info

To preface this, I must give thanks to our Hummer community and all the helpful information.

H/U: JVC 250BT

I can say that during the install I had my concerns about this H/U fitting but the sizing was spot on, albeit very little room to spare.
size and dimensions are:

Width:7.01 inches Height:3.94 inches Depth:6.38 inches

The metra 95-3304 dash kit H/U mount may be a bit less fancy but it actually fit the H/U. The Scosche gm1595b wouldn't fit no way, no how.
The Metra LC-GMRC-01 was a precise fit and if wired painstakingly concise works first time out.

With this particular install the antenna adapter Crutchfield sent was not necessary. Metra 40-GM10 ant adp.

Metra LC-GMRC-01 Wiring Interface (this harness excludes on star but retains everything else)

Gm4004/70-2003 (just in case) This an even cheaper way to go if you don't want to pay to much. Like $8.

Here are some overviews:

Just beginning to start the process...





Got the new harness for the radio and for the Metra LC-GMRC-01 in this image.

I'm going to say this right out the gate pay very close attention to the details. DVM is a must. Or some form of continuity tester.



In this image you can clearly see that there are wires capped off with heat shrink and collect on the outside of the harness. This is for vss, power ant, an orange/white that is not used with H3... There is also steering wheel remote wire and one extra orange wire not used.
Obviously your radio H/U may different but wiring to H3 (base model)(non Bose) will be the same.


As I've stated I'm a bit picky so each wire was tightly connected with solder and the heat shrink. After verification of all connections and testing in H3 then double rapped the harness to prevent shorts or opens.


Side by side comparison to old H/U.



The installation also required running a microphone for BT and it was at end users discretion as to where you installed it.
I chose to route mine up the driver's side a-pillar. Then clean snaked it through the dash and zip tied it to the existing harness in the H3 to get it to the center of the H3.


I've put and order in for 4 - Polk db651's and have Infinity ref6522ix (6.5") as a just in case standing by.

[h=1][/h]

I also felt it was prudent to leave access to the +12v, acc. & ground.. so I added leads into the harness and capped them with heat shrink.
As a final step zip tied the lose wires to the harness.

I figure when I add my EchoMaster backup camera I'll need a +12v, acc. & ground including the reverse trigger wire I tapped in also.
If not at least I know they are there for any future opportunities.

:giggle::mock:

Let's keep the good times rolling, shall we...
I spent about 9 hours 031219 changing the speakers out in all four doors and doing all new LED lights in the door controls.
(The led were a b!tch to say the least as I for the life of me could not seem to get the correct size ordered with the correct connection configuration.
I ordered t4/t4.2 that were to be the exact replacement product but nope! Lol. Had to make them work by altering there configuration and by using the oem bases where possible. All the light worked save for one at first test after installation in door controllers. Had that twisted 180deg out of phase. Quick swap and all was good.)

On to the speakers: db651's x 4

(Gotta love speaker porn hahahaha)













This install was four Polk Audio db651's so there would be a balanced signal and like quality. The tweeters were placed facing the rear seat in the back and the driver/passenger cab seating in front.

As a side note, the driver's main speaker harness was so corroded from moisture that the quick disconnect jumper was useless in this door. It was necessary to wire in a new two position weather / Deutsche pack and then 6-9" of quality wire and then small/large lead connectors to speaker.
It was the only door with this issue. I can also confirm that the moister in these doors on my H3 at least, corroded and encrusted the rear of each speaker pretty badly. I had my 6.5" in front and Pyle 6.5" components in the rear. All were badly corroded.

Next to come some Pioneer TS- T110 7/8" tweeters in the A pillars.
In the end I chose a Jensen bucam200j back up camera instead of the other I listed above for the simple reason it got pretty good reviews and it came with everything. The other one I listed did not come with the complete harness as some items would be left for me to get.

The new tweeters should be here 031319 so I'll need to make some headway on those.

Let the game commence... Ta da!

Pioneer TS- T110 7/8" tweeters in the A pillars.


There I'm sure are many ways to skin the cat but this worked best for me.
100w peak 40rms built in cross over/filter.


Here are the modified A pillars.

It was necessary to gut the lower portion to help with fitment.













Used original harness from factory to help with connectivity.
Hot glue is a big plus.



The wires are (B) positive (A) negative.
Aka... tan +, gry -, .....lite grn +, drk grn -....
But wires from GM are both brn reddishness & grn.




Backup camera next...:giggle:

Made a decision on the amp/sub assembly.
NVX QBUS8v2 8" Under Seat Powered Subwoofer Enclosure + Premium Amp Kit





I wanted to keep the SQ theme going... Yes, it is done on a budget but I'm focusing more quality signal and sound output and much less on shaking the neighborhood. Lol! This is definitely not the amp package for that.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...6iq8aq6r0RYDUI-eXsbW1s8wZRqjOOLRoC68oQAvD_BwE


This will be getting installed this week hopefully.:woot:
The backup camera came so I'll do that too while the plastic parts are removed and deck is pulled out.

Wanted to provide a lil amp/sub porn lol!
I went out to the H3 this afternoon to measure and I'm not certain yet as to the final placement for this unit.








The physical unit measures 9.25" by 13" and 2- 3/4" high.
I measured the rear area just below the compartments on each side and it has 9" + or - ... so it is just about right.
I'm hoping to keep this unit comfortably located in the rear of the H3 to provide enough bass fill.
I'm also going to run the trigger (from H/U) to the amp along with RCA low level + -...
I'm still not sure about rear camera placement???

Update.
I wanted to do an update on this install. The amp and camera are now installed. I started on Saturday and finished 15+ hours later on Sunday.
It was very putt- zzzz work and really consumed many hours. It was spread over two days with a break between the rear compartment work and front cabin, under hood work.
The reverse camera was hung in the rear door and then routed through the rear rubber boot. The whole driver's side back plastic coverings and swing door upper, lower coverings needed to be removed. Also, boh plastic pieces on front, rear door thresholds had to be removed.
The wiring harness which was compromised of left, right RCA amp cable plugs and reverse camera yellow RCA + blue trigger amp wire and red +12v acc wire for reverse camera. These were all electrical tapped together neatly to make one neat harness. The 8 guage +12v to battery was run separate. The amp is mounted to a custom built, carpeted unit sitting directly below the cargo area driver's side storage cubby.
The ground for the reverse camera is mounted right next to the main rear ground lug located near rear seat belt on driver's side back seat. The amp is actually grounded to the oem ground point provided. The wiring of the reverse camera for +12v can be obtained via the lite green wire located in the rear cargo area above the driver's back wheel. It's located under all the plastic coverings directly above the wheel well.
The harness has a plug with lite green, brown, black & blue.
Lite green: reverse +14.5v
Blue: brake +14.3v
Black
Brown

It was not necessary for me to cut or t-tap as I simply made a slight opening on the lite green wires casing and solder the red +12v (fused) power wire from the reverse camera directly to lite green wire. I made sure to Tessa tape the wire and secure neatly with black zip ties. As a side note one draw back to this is the fuse is now located behind the plastic coverings.
The amp had to have a custom mount made and the carpeting helped to isolate (cancel) some of the resonance from the 8" bass speaker.
The 8 guage +12v (red) wire was run to the front of H3 on driver's side attached every few inches by black zip ties and routed directly along the oem harness route. Under the hood it was necessary to remove the battery box cover and mount on it's front side a heavy duty fuse that came with the amp. I can't stress enough the close proximity mounting to +12v battery post as the unfused section of wire is then less prone to risk of fire or damage. The fuse is actually a redundancy because the nvx unit installed actually comes with an on board 25 amp fuse located on it's rear panel next to power, ground, amp trigger wire & RCA cable in.
The premade harness mentioned above was then installed following oem wiring but split off so as to mount under dash and across to new H/U.
Every step of the way I made certain to avoid sharp edges or area which could chafe the wiring harness. All plastic pieces were replaced and final adjustments followed. I still feel like the Metra dash install kit is kinda poor-ish fitting and the profile is slightly off.
Following the install I made certain to set the gain, hpf, lpf, subsonic and remote volume to minimum. Then connected the battery +12v.
As this install was time and labor intensive I didn't take video or pictures along the way. I had so many tools and supplies laying everywhere it was mind boggling. In retrospect, I do not know if I would do the exact same install again. I'd make some changes to items chosen and layout but overall acceptable. One last thought, make sure that the blue trigger wire goes to +12v acc. The main red 8 guage to +12v battery constant. And Ground should be cleaned to bare metal.