Weird key issue, truck wouldn't start with primary key. Passlock disabled.

[2010H3TAlpha]

My truck has started up every time since I bought it in 2013, no issues. Then I'm kayaking in the middle of nowhere last Friday and my truck wouldn't start. Called my brother at the GM dealership and he told me to try a backup key (thankfully I keep one around). Truck started right up. He told me to start the truck with the "bad" key within 10 seconds of removing the "good" key and the truck will relearn the "bad" key. Sure enough, that worked too. PCM of NC disabled passlock after it started acting up a couple months ago so is this a different "feature" that rejected my primary key? Now I am definitely going to carry two keys just in case it randomly rejects a key again. Anyone else had this issue before? Seems weird right?

 

[alrock]

Sounds odd to me since our keys have no chips or other electronic signal, so I'm not sure how the ignition housing would distinguish between the two keys especially since you had Passlock disabled.

I suspect that the backup key had nothing to do with it starting. Were you getting the security light on the dash when trying to start initially?

 

[RamRod]

Sounds really strange

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[2010H3TAlpha]

Sounds odd to me since our keys have no chips or other electronic signal, so I'm not sure how the ignition housing would distinguish between the two keys especially since you had Passlock disabled.

I suspect that the backup key had nothing to do with it starting. Were you getting the security light on the dash when trying to start initially?

Yes, though the security light is on a lot, but it has never kept me from starting the truck; I believe this is normal for a vehicle with Passlock bypassed. I must have tried starting it 20 times with the primary key so it would be really coincidental to fire right up with the backup key first try, but I guess crazier things are possible.

Did GM add any anti-theft features in 2010?

 

[RamRod]

When the key wouldn't start the truck did it make any noises as all? Or what it completely blocking you out of all systems (fuel pump, smog compressor, etc)

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[2010H3TAlpha]

Totally normal like a real start, except no start itself. Super weird.

 

[RamRod]

Hmmm sounds familiar

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[RamRod]

If it does it again I would be interested to hear if you have fuel pressure

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[mjferencak]

Starter solenoid going out maybe or a bad relay?

 

[650Hawk]

As said, there is no chip in H3 keys, so there is no difference between them. Perhaps your primary is just getting a bit worn, and the backup key kinda "reset" the tumblers?

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

So it happened again today, I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with the starter, starter solenoid, or relay. While waiting for the tow truck, it magically started again. When it wouldn't start, it was the same as before, no cranking, just dash lights, same as it would look in the "on" position. I confirmed with PCM of NC that my Passlock is indeed disabled.

Can you buy the solenoid for these things or is it built into the starter? I see you can buy the solenoid for the 3.7 but not the 5.3.

 

[4speedfunk]

I'de try the relay first. Cheap, easy, and a common issue on late model GM vehicles. My Burb did a similar thing, and I used a paper clip to jump the terminals on the socket, to get me home. $8 at AutoZone for a new relay.


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[lowtrac]

So it happened again today, I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with the starter, starter solenoid, or relay. While waiting for the tow truck, it magically started again. When it wouldn't start, it was the same as before, no cranking, just dash lights, same as it would look in the "on" position. I confirmed with PCM of NC that my Passlock is indeed disabled.

Can you buy the solenoid for these things or is it built into the starter? I see you can buy the solenoid for the 3.7 but not the 5.3.

I believe it's the one labeled RUN CRANK in the under hood fusebox.

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

Thanks guys, I'm trying the new relay tomorrow. Really hoping that is the fix, I forgot how much it sucks to be stranded.

 

[rascole]

Have you upgraded your battery terminals? What is the voltage of the battery when the key is turned on? Maybe battery is going bad.

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

Brand new Odyssey Extreme battery with brand new IXOS terminals. Voltage is 11.7-11.8 at start, there is never any drop when the key is turned to start. Seems the issue is after the battery somewhere.

 

[Traxx]

How many miles on the rig? The key cylinder seems to be really picky on these after awhile, especially if your the kitchen sink type with your keychain.

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

Only 49k miles, no extra keys on my key ring. But you're not the first to mention that these key cylinders are sensitive so I may replace it anyway.

 

[650Hawk]

Is your spare key also problematic, or is the issue only occurring with your original?

 

[2010H3TAlpha]

The issue happened with all 3 keys. All of them turn just fine, just nothing happens when the key is moved to the "Start" position.

 

[Hunner]

Here is one, I have rarely ever used my key to open the door. Went on vacation and the H3 sat. Battery went down, "time to replace one", I staggered the purchase on my dual batteries. I could not open the door with the original H3 key! All this time I thought that was my emergency back up!

I had to use a just right screw driver to jimmy the hood open so I could switch batteries. Guess I will mount that screw driver outside the vehicle.

I tried an extra key and it would not open the door either. I guess if the battery is dead your "screwed" key must still trigger the electric lock??

Well now after switching batteries the keys still will not unlock the door?

 

[lowtrac]

When you stick the key in the door lock will the cylinder move at all? I'd probably start by pulling the door panel to make sure everything looks good. Maybe shoot some graphite in the cylinder. I use my key to open the door all the time since my keyless entry doesn't work.

 

[Hunner]

Thanks, yea I was not going to just shoot some lube in there I am going to get some graphite today. I don't want to gum it up.

It won't move at all either direction.

I'm going to remove that rubber plug and use a bore light to see if I can see anything jammed.

I hate removing the door panel. Seems like in the past it always breaks some clips but I may have to.

I have a Viper alarm on mine and always use the keyless entry. I chose that one because it has a 1500 foot range so I can monitor the H3 from a distance.

 

[lowtrac]

Is there any chance that door may have been replaced? If so, maybe the lock didn't get swapped. I don't know what the inside of the driver's door looks like (haven't had to take THAT one off yet) but I assume the operating rod or cable coming from the cylinder actuates the same thing the power lock solenoid does. You'll know for sure after you pull the panel. I'd do the graphite first though. Maybe save you some trouble.

 

[Hunner]

Back when I bought mine new they only gave me one key. I just about ended the deal when they said they wanted $85 for a not chipped key!
We had a falling out for awhile but they later offered me some other service and buttered me up to lead some Hummer Happenings. Never got a key.

I had a key made at a real locksmith for $7 back then. It's listed as a Col/Can blank.

Ilco P1114 B110

After pushing graphite in the lock I wiggled this key a few times and it open the lock. Upon close examination I noticed the points were sharper than on the well worn ignition key with the black H3 logo on it.

So I will get a couple more made from the blank replacement key.