Portager's H3T Modifications

[Portager]

I started with a Boulder Grey Metallic 2009 H3T Alpha Luxury (leather seats, …) with the off-road package (front and rear lockers and 33” wheels), but the dealer had replaces the OEM wheels with 20” chrome wheels and 32” A/T tires.

Everybody says I need to "Ditch the nerfs & crank the t-bars!", whatever that means, so I guess I’ll start moding. I had planned to use my 3 day weekend (due to 9/80 work schedule) to install my upgrades before our trip to Nevada, but work got in the way and I spent all 3 days working uncompensated overtime. So I decided to have American Camper Shells do the installs when they installed the SlantBack topper.

The SlantBack was about a week late based on their 2-3 week ETA because the back window glass was back ordered and I started getting very nervous that it would not arrive in time for the trip. Since I'm going to have thousands of dollars worth of equipment in the back, not being able to lock it up was a major concern. Well it finally showed up so below are some before and after photos.

You will also note in these photos that I have the E&G Classic fender flares installed. I wanted the fender flares to cover the tread on the wider than stock tires to cut down on pebble damage on the rear fenders and to make the vehicle legal in California. I liked the look on the fender flares in the photos online, but I think they look even better in person. In my opinion, they give the truck a more finished look.

The boulder grey metallic paint was not my first choice, but one benefit I have noticed is it is close to the color of the plastic bumper parts, so it doesn't have the two tone look of other colors. Also, the paint color is very close to the color of the fender flares.

Here is the left front corner shot before the install.

and here it is after

Here is the left rear corner before:

and here it is after

Here is the right front corner before;

and here it is after

Here is the right rear corner before:

and here it is after:

And here is side view after:

Now the rest of the installation had a minor hitch, but American Camper Shells discounted the installation and when I return from my trip they'll fix it and charge me the balance. I had them install the Defelice Offroad Innovations (DOI) bumper, Warn XD9000 winch and Viking synthetic winch line. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that DOI didn't included hard copy installation instructions, so they follower Warn's instructions and put the solenoid control box right in front instead of behind the grill. Here are pictured of the new DOI bumper and winch.

Front view:

Close-up from the front:

Side view:

I think my next install is going to be a locking gas cover. I was thinking of getting black, but then I looked at my truck and I realized I have a fair amount of chrome, although that was never my intent. At this point I think it would look better to just go with the chrome locking gas cover.

We are leaving for Nevada in the morning and we'll be gone a week, so if I reply right away it means I having too much fun or I can't get internet access. We do plan to visit some remote places.


By the way, what does it mean to "Ditch the nerfs & crank the t-bars!"?

 

[BW_Hummer H3]

I love the slantbacks! Also I thought that was cyber gray not blouder gray?

 

[alrock]

Looks great Portager. I really like those winch mounts

 

[Bigunit]

Sweet ride Mike! What's next on your mod list?

 

[Portager]

I love the slantbacks! Also I thought that was cyber gray not blouder gray?

Although "Cyber Grey" was offered on Hummers in some years, it was never offered on the H3T (according to www.hummer.com). Mine must be Boulder Grey Metallic or Graphite Metallic (I'm sure it isn't Carbon Black Metallic). I thought it was Boulder Grey Metallic but looking at the H3T color options online it looks closer to Graphite Metallic. I guess I'll have to look up the color code.

 

[Portager]

We just returned home from our trip to Nevada and I thought I'd add some of the results from our trip, so I decided to add it to this thread.

We put close to 3,000 miles on the T during our 8 day trip and we did some rough wheeling. The T performed flawlessly and we were able to get to places that no other vehicle I've even owner could have reached. We were also able to bring home close to 1,000 lbs of semi-precious stone (emphasis on semi). Try that in a Wrangler!

We almost got stuck trying to get to a dry lake bed that wasn't quite dry. We got to a spot where the road appeared slightly damp, so I got out and walked it. I didn't sink in and if we got through that spot we could get 1 or 2 miles closer to our destination so I decided to go for it. Before we knew it we were spinning our wheels and making 6 inch deep ruts. I put it into 4 wheel low and locked the differentials and I was able to rock it out. I don't think we would have gotten out without locking differentials. This shows why smart four wheelers go with a buddy, but nobody but my wife and I wanted to make the trip, so what ya gonna do? Since I had the loping shears plan B was to cut branches to improve traction. I think I'll also buy snow chains to keep on hand as plan C. Plan D was use the Iridium satellite phone, but I don't have one yet and I'm not sure who I would have called.

Now the bad news regarding my upgrades.

When driving down dirt and gravel roads the bed of the T filled up with dust, but it is not the SnugTop SlangBack toppers fault. There is a big gap between the pickup bed and the tailgate. I am thinking of installing Extang MaxSeal Tailgate Seal http://www.autoanything.com/tonneau-covers/69A3474A0A0.aspx but I would appreciate any alternate suggestions or recommendations. The Extang MaxSeal Tailgate Seal is too think for some trucks (Toyota) and too thin for others. The H3T has a fairly large gap (about 3/8") between the tailgate and the bed, but they don't say how thick it is or how much it will compress.

Somewhere during the trip I managed to bump a rock and bend the passenger side step back about 3/4". I was worried about this and I wanted to take the steps off, but the wife has a bum knee and needs the step. I have already ordered the AMP research PowerStep, which should look and function better. Too bad there is no way to combine the PowerSteps with rock rails! I'll get the solenoid for the Winch relocated (i.e. pimple removed from the nose) when I get the PowerStep installed.

Since my tires are wider than stock tires, they rub the inside of the fender flares on hard bumps. There is a lip at the bottom that extends in horizontally over an inch and the tires are rubbing the inside edge of the lip at maximum travel. I plan to trim the inside edge off at the top center before my next off-road trip.

I need to remount my front license plate. I was thinking of a hinged plate, but since I opted for the "safety thimble" the plate would need to be about 2" in front of the bumper. I'm think about a fixed plate mounting with the bottom of the plate just above the top of the hawse fairlead. That will protect the plate from damage a little better.

The beer I like only comes in glass bottles. I had 4 in the cooler during one particularly rough off-road adventure and at the end of the day three were partially empty and there was beer in the cooler. I guess the caps loosened due to the jostling and started leaking. At least I was able to drown my sorrow with the 4th beer. I guess I'm lucky the glass didn't break. Anyway, since I'm not willing to drink beer that comes in cans, I need to devise a protection scheme for glass bottle beers.

Here are some pictures of the T along the way and after the return.

Here is a front view of the H3T at the Buffington Pockets North East of Las Vegas near the Valley of Fire Road. We were mining Chalcedony up the hill side.

A side view showing the grade we were parked on and some of the dig site in the background.

Here is a rear view of the T with the back open showing all the gear and the rocks we had acquired. Note the cursed beer consuming cooler.

Here is a pic of the H3T on the road coming out if Buffington Pockets.

Another pic coming out of Buffington Pockets where they were quarrying the multi-color sandstone.

Here is a shot after the trip was over showing some dust and dirt. The gray paint and the camera really don't show the dirt.

 

[alrock]

First, some great beer comes only in cans: http://www.oskarblues.com/the-brews/dales-pale-ale Dale's is a favorite of mine.

The power steps will help but be careful that you don't start doing bigger stuff and bend those since they are of course pricier. For your current steps, you can tie a line to them to an anchor point, drive and bend them back in place.

 

[BW_Hummer H3]

Although "Cyber Grey" was offered on Hummers in some years, it was never offered on the H3T (according to www.hummer.com). Mine must be Boulder Grey Metallic or Graphite Metallic (I'm sure it isn't Carbon Black Metallic). I thought it was Boulder Grey Metallic but looking at the H3T color options online it looks closer to Graphite Metallic. I guess I'll have to look up the color code.

I believe your right sir.

This is boulder grey.

This is Graphite Metallic.

 

[Portager]

Not to insult Dale's Pale Ale, but my step son is co-owner of a micro-brewery in Riverside CA and I'm an investor. They only bottle in glass bottles currently.

However, on this occasion I had to restock the cooler in Nevada and the best I could find was Negra Modello, which is a 5.3% abv Vienna lager-style beer.

 

[Portager]

I believe your right sir.

I stand corrected, as you astutely pointed out my truck is Graphite Metallic.

 

[Portager]

I took the T back to American Camper Shells and got the winch solenoid moved behind the grille like it should be. They work really fast!

I searched for license plate frames that would cover the winch fairlead, but since I went with the aluminum fairlead and safety thimble none of them would work. I got a hinged license plate frame from Summit Racing and mounted that just above the winch fairlead. The hinge isn't really used except to hide the bolts that mount it.

Next I got the AMP power step installed. Again very fast installation. I’d rather have rock sliders, but my wife has a bum knee so I need steps for her. The AMP power steps drop down lower than the old steps so it is easier for the wife, but once the door is closed they go up and provide better ground clearance. The guys that installed the steps used the bolt holes for the H3 so they wouldn’t go up all the way. Fortunately AMP is only a few miles out of my way to work so I stopped by and AMP fixed it very quickly.

Finally, as I discussed in my wheel selection thread, I replaced the 20" chrome wheels with AR-392 Tactic Wheels with 305/70R16 BFG KM2 tires.

 

[Portager]

Here are the latest update on my T.

First, I installed the OEM under carriage protection (UCP).

Here is the old skid plate that had to be removed.

I think the scratches show that I wheel it, but the lack of dents show that I'm pretty careful.

Before you all bust my balls for adding more chrome, I'd like to explain the method to my madness. I'm not going to keep all the chrome, just a little (an intentionally vague term) for accents. However, I plan to put it all on and then Photoshop it until I find the look I like best. Then I'll remove and paint the chrome I want to cover up.

I decided I didn't want to glue the original plastic hood louver onto the hood and I wanted a metal louver that bolted on, so I got the Defenderworx machined aluminum chrome plated hood louver. I couldn’t find the weight of the hood louver online but since it said it was machined aluminum I figured it would be light. Once it arrived it was heavier than I expected.

I'm probably going to paint most of the louver. The main question is gray (color matched) or black. Also, should I leave the inside of the hummer logo chrome or paint it black? I think color match the louver and leave “HUMMER” chrome.

I installed the Defenderworx "mini grill" because I don't like the looks on the plastic mesh grille and I like the way the mini-grille mimics the style of the main grille.

Unfortunately the plastic is still visible behind the mini-grill but it looks good from a distance. Maybe, when I take the mini-grill off I'll paint the plastic black. If I paint the main grille I'll probably paint the mini-grill to match.

I also installed a OEM Square Tube Grille Guard off an H3x which I purchased from redliner.

I love the looks of the Square Tube Grille Guard, but not on top of the chrome grille. It creates sort of a double image affect. I'm thinking it will look better if I paint the grille grey (color matched) like the H3x.

Next I installed the Defenderworx locking fuel door.

I looked at other, cheaper fuel doors, but I didn't think they fit as well. They don't have the correct curvature, so there is a gap at the top and bottom. The Defenderworx fits snug all the way around.

Here are some full truck shots of the new look.

 

[Zach]

Your truck looks great Mike, can't wait to see the rest of the build. Even though I've seen it all

 

[Portager]

I took the T in and got the SlantBack and the PowerSteps adjusted (under warranty) so it was free.

I had them shift the SlantBack forward to tighten the seal on the tailgate, so it should cut down on the dust that gets in the back on gravel and dirt roads.

They also adjusted the PowerSteps because they weren’t closing all the way at the front. They did a great job on the passengers’ side, but they couldn't fix the driver’s side, so they sent me back to AMP Research (good thing they are close). AMP Research tried to adjust the driver’s side step, but the problem is that it is slightly bent. Probably the off-roading I did on-road after the big rain storm and flooding we had. They offered to replace it for $100, but I decided to wait until after a bend it some more. I really need rock sliders, but the wife needs steps!

Makes me wonder how much work it would be to remove the PowerSteps and install rock sliders every time I want to go off-road? Maybe I should just drive the Cadillac when my wife rides with me and leave the rock sliders on all the time? Problem is, I like driving my T better than my Cadillac and I’d still need steps for the wife when we go off-road!

 

[Portager]

I took Zach's advice and installed a Slide Masters cargo slide. Thanks Zach! Note: all the gear tied down to the cargo slide is the gear I loaded up for the trip to the Fluorite mine that didn’t happen on Saturday and the orange “Home Depot” buckets are supposed to be full of Fluorite crystals by now.

The cargo slide I chose is a single direction, 100% extension cargo slide custom made to fit the T by http://www.slide-master.com/. It is model SM3-SP if you’re interested. I opted for the 3/16” aluminum tray (AKA cargo platform) and a “headboard”, which hasn’t arrived yet.

I had RB Components modify the custom slide so that I could mount it in the T without drilling 6 holes through the floor of the bed. There are 3 bolt holes on each side; front, middle and rear. The bolts in the center are the main load carrying bolts when the slide is extended, so you need to secure it in the center. I had RB Components welded 2x2x3/16 steel angle across the bottom on each side to secure the center. The original intent was to use turnbuckles to attach each corner to the existing tie-downs. However, the angle of the turn buckle in the front would not have held it down, so they welded an angle bracket and bolted it to directly to tie-down. The only issue we had with the angle bracket was getting it over the fender bumps when we slid it in. If I were doing it over, I’d weld angle brackets in the rear and heavy duty hinges in the front corners. Then the hinge could be folder up for installation and removal. Using oversized holes and fender washers minimizes alignment issues.

I also had RB Components add 2”x3” aluminum angle on each side and “L-track” on top of that. The L-track provides movable tie-downs on each side. The angles extend the width of the cargo platform over the fender bumps and help to keep loose items from dropping into the gap.

Here is a picture of the cargo slide in the stowed position.

One concern is the clearance between the cargo slide and the tailgate. Since the tailgate doesn’t open flat relative to the bed of the T, the minimum clearance occurs between the cargo slide and the tip of the tailgate and is about ¼” empty. I can always add a spacer between the cargo slide and the bed, but I decided to wait and see how it is under a load. With the current load there is at least 1/8” clearance. Although the camera angle doesn't so that very well.

Once I get the “headboard”, I’ll have a place to mount the PowerTank and then I’ll try and figure out here to mount the Hi-Lift jack. The Hi-Lift jack is currently in the cardboard box running diagonally on the bottom, so it is taking up a lot of prime real-estate! I was planning to mount the Hi-Lift jack on the side rail, but now that I have the cargo slide, I’d prefer to have it on the slide. I’m think a pocket on the headboard that the base of the Hi-Lift jack fits into and a support in the rear. I also think it would be less in the way mounted high in the center. Any alternate ideas?

I really like this upgrade. It slides in and out with ease, locks on three places, open, closed and in the middle and it makes it very easy to access everything. The new tie-downs are great also!

 

[BW_Hummer H3]

Does the Slantback cover leak or does it stay dry inside?

 

[Portager]

Does the Slantback cover leak or does it stay dry inside?

The SlantBack stays dry, although when I first got it installed the tailgate leaked. I wouldn't get water inside in a rain storm, but I would at the car wash and I got a lot of dust. I had to add a seal around the tailgate. I also had the SlantBack shifted forward. The original install had a 1/4" gap between the lid and the tailgate. Now I get no water and very little dust. On the last trip to Bishop the dust was bad but I barely had any inside.

 

[5gn-h3t]

Before we knew it we were spinning our wheels and making 6 inch deep ruts. I put it into 4 wheel low and locked the differentials and I was able to rock it out. I don't think we would have gotten out without locking differentials.
Now the bad news regarding my upgrades.

I love the adventure package. If the tires touch it, it's going over or through it.

Somewhere during the trip I managed to bump a rock and bend the passenger side step back about 3/4". I was worried about this and I wanted to take the steps off, but the wife has a bum knee and needs the step. I have already ordered the AMP research PowerStep, which should look and function better. Too bad there is no way to combine the PowerSteps with rock rails!

A set of theBroken's rock bashers with the removable steps should cure that.

Since my tires are wider than stock tires, they rub the inside of the fender flares on hard bumps. There is a lip at the bottom that extends in horizontally over an inch and the tires are rubbing the inside edge of the lip at maximum travel. I plan to trim the inside edge off at the top center before my next off-road trip.

1" body lift.

I guess the caps loosened due to the jostling and started leaking. At least I was able to drown my sorrow with the 4th beer. I guess I'm lucky the glass didn't break. Anyway, since I'm not willing to drink beer that comes in cans, I need to devise a protection scheme for glass bottle beers. .

If they come in 6-packs, leave them in the cardboard 6-pack and keep them tightly packed with ice. If not, just keep them packed with ice. You can also put bottle koozies on every other bottle.

Oh, and good beer comes in all sorts of containers. And remember - A beer in the hand is worth two in the fridge (or cooler).

 

[jmoffatt]

Nice I'd like to see more, I also have the Graphite grey and square chrome factory brush gaurd on my H3 Alpha, in your sig pic I noticed that the chrome fuel cover was painted black, ( I just looked agian maybe it's just the lighting making it look that way) anyway nice looking rig.

 

[Portager]

A set of theBroken's rock bashers with the removable steps should cure that.

No fare looking ahead. I'll get to that as soon as I can and I'm still waiting for the steps ( oke: ).

1" body lift.

Yah, that's not gunna happen to my T.

If they come in 6-packs, leave them in the cardboard 6-pack and keep them tightly packed with ice. If not, just keep them packed with ice. You can also put bottle koozies on every other bottle.

Oh, and good beer comes in all sorts of containers. And remember - A beer in the hand is worth two in the fridge (or cooler).

The beers were in the cardboard 6-pack but after a couple of days of sitting in the water it became worthless. I found frozen water bottles once and they worked great. You can also open them and drink them after they thaw or you can refreeze them. They keep the ice/water contained.

Nice I'd like to see more, I also have the Graphite grey and square chrome factory brush gaurd on my H3 Alpha, in your sig pic I noticed that the chrome fuel cover was painted black, ( I just looked agian maybe it's just the lighting making it look that way) anyway nice looking rig.

I'll post more mods soon. I even have mods that I did before Bishop that I haven't posted at all so I gotta be busy. I see what you mean about the fuel door, but it must have been the angle of the reflection of something dark. It is still chrome, but the tentative plan is to paint it Graphite Grey to match the T, but to leave the "HUMMER" logo chrome. I'm still dithering on exactly what I want to paint and since I plan to have it all done at once ...

 

[Portager]

Since my last update I got the head board installed on my cargo slide, so now I have a place to mount the PowerTank and the Hi-Lift jack.

Next I removed the AMP PowerSteps and installed Rigid Demon Rock Bashers. Thanks brodie!

I really like the Rock Bashers and so far my wife has no trouble climbing in. They stick out far enough to make a good step. Not to mention the design and workmanship is the best available.

Then I finally painted my low profile shock mounts. I decided to go with rattle can paint to make it easier to touch up and I picked hammered gray.

Here is how they look installed.

Really glad I finally got these installed.

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

No pics of the Thor Parts bumper / tire gate?

 

[Portager]

No pics of the Thor Parts bumper / tire gate?

You caught me! I've had it on since before the Bishop run, but haven't gotten around to posting yet along with a few other minor mods. I even stopped and took pictures on my way to San Diego but I didn't have time to get her done. I'll get them posted soon!

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

You caught me! I've had it on since before the Bishop run, but haven't gotten around to posting yet along with a few other minor mods. I even stopped and took pictures on my way to San Diego but I didn't have time to get her done. I'll get them posted soon!

You tease :wink:

 

[Portager]

After the first trip to Gold Mountain, I realized the E&G Fender Flares weren’t going to work for off-roading. Even though I only have 33" tires the wider 305 profile and 4.93" backspace combined with the KM2 tread pattern produced a lot of tire to flare rubbing at full articulation so I ditched the fender flares.

I also installed the Thor Parts rear bumper and spare gate to get the spare tire out from under the bed of the truck.

And here is a better view of the spare gate.

I was a little worried that the spare tire would run away, so I installed locking lug nuts that match the locks on the main wheels so they all use the same lug nut key.

Sorry about the photo, I'll get better picture from the side. Once I get a fifth wheel to match the other four, the locking lug nuts will be sunken and more secure. One of the spare tire mounting studs started spinning when I replaced the lug nuts, so I had the heads welded to the bracket. I'll try and take a picture of that also.

To prevent someone from taking the spare and the mounting bracket I installed a lock.

I got the new bumper and spare gate installed before the Bishop trip so I’ve wheeled it at Bishop and Gold Mountain. Overall, I'm very pleased with the bumper and spare gate. The bumper retains the original departure angle and getting the spare tire out from under the bed improves ground clearance. Also, now I can replace my "space saver" 285 spare with a full sized 305 tire. I also think the spare tire mount looks better when combined with the Slant Back topper because the spare looks less exposed. I need to take pictures of the spare gate open and the cargo slide extended. The gate does restrict access to the front passenger side of the cargo slide, but I can squeeze between the spare gate and cargo slide if I need to (although it could get messy if your off-roading in mud). I plan to move the CO2 PowerTank to the driver’s side and put stuff that I access less in the other corner. The only thing I would change or add would be a latch or pin to hold the spare gate open. When you are parked on a side slope the weight of the spare pushes the gate into the tail gate and it is already starting to transfer paint between the two gates. Maybe reuse the safety pin that holds the gate shut?

I also need to take and post pictures of the license plate mount with LED lights, and the mounting of the OEM backup camera. I’ll also post pictures of my CB radio and antenna installation although I’m still struggeling with the mic holder since I don’t want to drill into the dash.