06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
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- 9,498
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- Meridian, ID
Another nice mod!
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Nugget's 110 Defender
- Thread starter nugget
- Start date
nugget
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
Decided a roof console was the best way to mount the UHF radio and also give a bit more storage. Since this photo I have also mounted the Tyre Dog Tyre Monitoring screen there as welll.
nugget
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
There are mods that get you further up a hill, over a bigger rock or just deeper into the brown stuff. Then there are mods which are no where near as hard core, but equally if not more important....the mods that keep the sea anchor happy. Wendy had become accustomed to certain level of luxury in the H3 which importantly for her, included an illuminated mirror on the backside of the passenger’s sun visor. Creature comforts like this are non existent on Defenders, but in fairness, she requested at least a mirror. It had only been 12 months since the initial request so it had moved up on my priority list from around 3,400,997 to 3,400,996. Wendy of course had maintained it on a daily basis as numero uno and the heat was rising.
Giving it due consideration, I decided that if I was going to do it, I might as well go for the brownie points on offer and do it properly. She wants a standard mirror..she gets a full blown illuminated mirror....nothing is too good for the love of my life, especially as I reckon it would be a walk up start double bonus points projects...and god only knows I need the points!!!
A trip to the wreckers, and then another was spectacularly unsuccessful so eBay is your friend was employed and bingo a full sun visor off a VW something or other in the UK delivered to my mail box in Aussie for $40. Done deal.
I decided to use the original visor from the Defender and mount the mirror assembly into it to keep the original look. Drilled up the centre of the holding pin to run the wires for the light and bingo……
and the drum roll please......
Put in a small joiner plug so the visor can be removed. Sometimes you have to bench clean it to get all the hairspray off!!!!!!!! The positive was that Wendy was thrilled with the end result and I got extra shed time allowance..win/win.
Far be it for me to spread rumours but I have heard on the grapevine that Gunner has the only H3 in the world with an illuminated, double size, 10X magnification mirror on the drivers side. Apparently it is removeable for when he goes to the toilet, but that is unconfirmed so please keep it quiet as I understand he gets pretty embarrassed about it....
Giving it due consideration, I decided that if I was going to do it, I might as well go for the brownie points on offer and do it properly. She wants a standard mirror..she gets a full blown illuminated mirror....nothing is too good for the love of my life, especially as I reckon it would be a walk up start double bonus points projects...and god only knows I need the points!!!
A trip to the wreckers, and then another was spectacularly unsuccessful so eBay is your friend was employed and bingo a full sun visor off a VW something or other in the UK delivered to my mail box in Aussie for $40. Done deal.
I decided to use the original visor from the Defender and mount the mirror assembly into it to keep the original look. Drilled up the centre of the holding pin to run the wires for the light and bingo……
and the drum roll please......
Put in a small joiner plug so the visor can be removed. Sometimes you have to bench clean it to get all the hairspray off!!!!!!!! The positive was that Wendy was thrilled with the end result and I got extra shed time allowance..win/win.
Far be it for me to spread rumours but I have heard on the grapevine that Gunner has the only H3 in the world with an illuminated, double size, 10X magnification mirror on the drivers side. Apparently it is removeable for when he goes to the toilet, but that is unconfirmed so please keep it quiet as I understand he gets pretty embarrassed about it....
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Every time I look at this build, I want this truck more and more. I really hope US regs allow for this truck to the lower 48.
My buddy just imported a 110 that was built from the ground/ up. LH drive too. not sur ewhat year, I know it had to be older to be able to import here though.
My buddy just imported a 110 that was built from the ground/ up. LH drive too. not sur ewhat year, I know it had to be older to be able to import here though.
nugget
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
The current project has been a work in process for the last couple of months. I can honestly say that it has been the most time consuming of any project I have done on any of my trucks.
I am still in the process of making the infill panels to finish the job, but to help it all make a bit more sense, this is where I am currently at.
Back to the beggining.....this is the build from the start...
A someone who enjoys offroad touring in the great Aussie out back, small screen navigation has been a constant source of frustration.Trying to use OziExplorer on a small screen has always been a 3 corner jack in the reg grundies (prickle in your underwear) and I decided to fix it once and for all. Concept which is slowly turning into reality.....
install an in car pc with as big a screen as possible which will not only run Ozi Explorer but also be navigator, radio, music, rear view camera and supply engine diagnostics.
Google is my friend and eventually all the goodies started to arrive from the USA and Germany. Starting by the ariel and working anti clockwise we have....10.4" open frame(ie I will make a surround to suit) VGA touchscreen, rear view camera, OB11 engine diagnostic, pc box with blue tooth usb stick on top, HD Radio unit, Blue tooth phone connector and navigator. A later addition was a USB hub with an additional 6 USB connections.
I won't go into all of the technical detail of each unit but would be happy supply answers to any questions. I will list a bit of info on the pc which has 140GB SSD hard drive and is fanless, both important issues in a 4WD as the SSD hard drive won't skip etc and dust will not be attracted to a fan. The unit also has a special delayed starting/shut down facility and runs Windows XP.
For the Gunner clone techno freaks here is a bit more data
Case Serener GS-L05
Intel Mainboard D25MW (incl. CPU Intel Atom D525 2x1.8Ghz)
Display CTF1040-MX
Intel Hard Drive SSD 300 GB
Power M3-ATX-HV
DVD incl. Slim-Line
P4 connector cable (4pol-5.25)
Op Sys Windows XP
Radio FM Card Audio Modulator
I decided to mount the screen between the round AC vents, sacraficing the fixed vents and clock. With a bit of good, well a lot of good luck, there would also be room for the pc box with a bit of modification to the AC ducting. Heart in throat, that inevitable point of no return had been reached and it was eyes closed and air saw ahead....
Eyes open and all good so far
That worked so well it was time to remove the centre part of the ducts....
Blocking off the centre ducts has actually meant better air flow through the adjustable vents so it has actually worked better than I thought.
Silicon is my friend and the big screws were just a safety to stop the block off blanks from dropping into the duct. They were removed once the silicon set.
I am still in the process of making the infill panels to finish the job, but to help it all make a bit more sense, this is where I am currently at.
Back to the beggining.....this is the build from the start...
A someone who enjoys offroad touring in the great Aussie out back, small screen navigation has been a constant source of frustration.Trying to use OziExplorer on a small screen has always been a 3 corner jack in the reg grundies (prickle in your underwear) and I decided to fix it once and for all. Concept which is slowly turning into reality.....
install an in car pc with as big a screen as possible which will not only run Ozi Explorer but also be navigator, radio, music, rear view camera and supply engine diagnostics.
Google is my friend and eventually all the goodies started to arrive from the USA and Germany. Starting by the ariel and working anti clockwise we have....10.4" open frame(ie I will make a surround to suit) VGA touchscreen, rear view camera, OB11 engine diagnostic, pc box with blue tooth usb stick on top, HD Radio unit, Blue tooth phone connector and navigator. A later addition was a USB hub with an additional 6 USB connections.
I won't go into all of the technical detail of each unit but would be happy supply answers to any questions. I will list a bit of info on the pc which has 140GB SSD hard drive and is fanless, both important issues in a 4WD as the SSD hard drive won't skip etc and dust will not be attracted to a fan. The unit also has a special delayed starting/shut down facility and runs Windows XP.
For the Gunner clone techno freaks here is a bit more data
Case Serener GS-L05
Intel Mainboard D25MW (incl. CPU Intel Atom D525 2x1.8Ghz)
Display CTF1040-MX
Intel Hard Drive SSD 300 GB
Power M3-ATX-HV
DVD incl. Slim-Line
P4 connector cable (4pol-5.25)
Op Sys Windows XP
Radio FM Card Audio Modulator
I decided to mount the screen between the round AC vents, sacraficing the fixed vents and clock. With a bit of good, well a lot of good luck, there would also be room for the pc box with a bit of modification to the AC ducting. Heart in throat, that inevitable point of no return had been reached and it was eyes closed and air saw ahead....
Eyes open and all good so far
That worked so well it was time to remove the centre part of the ducts....
Blocking off the centre ducts has actually meant better air flow through the adjustable vents so it has actually worked better than I thought.
Silicon is my friend and the big screws were just a safety to stop the block off blanks from dropping into the duct. They were removed once the silicon set.
nugget
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 245
- Location
- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
Next was to machine the screen surround, and mounting frame
making the most of every nook and cranny is a must and the space in front of the passenger was too tempting to pass up.
assembling the radio unit
First assembly of the screen. The pc sits in the cradle under the screen. On the passenger side is the 6 port USB hub, fuse box and relay
taking apart and re-assembling a touch screen...well any computer screen for that matter...was a first for me. I sand blasted the surround and then had it annodised black. The end result look as factory as factory and I am really pleased.
making the most of every nook and cranny is a must and the space in front of the passenger was too tempting to pass up.
assembling the radio unit
First assembly of the screen. The pc sits in the cradle under the screen. On the passenger side is the 6 port USB hub, fuse box and relay
taking apart and re-assembling a touch screen...well any computer screen for that matter...was a first for me. I sand blasted the surround and then had it annodised black. The end result look as factory as factory and I am really pleased.
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nugget
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
more wire than a space shuttle
Close to finished. machined up a little mould to make the radio slot infill
one mould mould to go to create the front infill which will fill in the gaps in front of the screen and then it is all done.
Close to finished. machined up a little mould to make the radio slot infill
one mould mould to go to create the front infill which will fill in the gaps in front of the screen and then it is all done.
nugget
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Decided to re-introduce the trusty scan guage as the engine diagnostic software does everything except give kms to empty....a function I really like on long trips.
The one thing which has always annoyed me about Scan Guage though is the velcroe fixing which makes it hard to press the buttons expecially on bumpy roads as the guage always moves away when pressed.
As I have removed the radio as part of the car PC instal, this provided an excellent position to mount the scan guage.
Worked an absolute treat on our recent wasted trip west and it was a pleasure to press the buttons without the unit moving away.
The one thing which has always annoyed me about Scan Guage though is the velcroe fixing which makes it hard to press the buttons expecially on bumpy roads as the guage always moves away when pressed.
As I have removed the radio as part of the car PC instal, this provided an excellent position to mount the scan guage.
Worked an absolute treat on our recent wasted trip west and it was a pleasure to press the buttons without the unit moving away.
H3slate
Brush raked
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Tualatin, Oregon
Wow!! New mods look great! Couple of questions, what GPS sensor are you using for your pc? What programs are you running in Windows for your FM tuner and diagnostics?
nugget
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
The pc runs XP but the interface software is Centrafuse
http://www.centrafuse.com/CentrafuseAuto.aspx
which includes the basic navigation program but through which you can organise the other applications.
I am using
GPS i-Blue GM-2 USB GPS Receiver (66 ch, MTK2, 5Hz, WAAS)
Audio RealTek-based Onboard Audio (built-in to mainboard)
Radio http://www.mo-co-so.com/Directed-DMHD-1000-HD-Radio-Receiver-p/mcs-dir-hdr.htm
OBD11 http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-based/obdlink.html
The main reason for going this way instead of a tablet was that when I started this project over 12 months ago, everythign I read about tablets was that they were not very good in sunlight...fantastic inside but hopeless outside. That may have changed ... not sure but once I was committed this way it would have been too late to change. Also not sure if centrafuse will run on a tablet.
Originally I was going to over mould the ally screen surround in polyurethane...sort of like a steering wheel but decided against it as I think heat retention might have been an issue. Operating parameters for the screen is something like +95C to -35C. As it is partly mounted into the dash, and I have left vents top and bottom, it allows the cooler air inside the dash to circulate through the screen case.
This system will also allow me to run a 2nd screen and I am flirting with a 4.5" touchscreen concept to display the diagnostics permenantly..watch this space
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- Central Texas
Nice looking setup Nugget
nugget
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Forgot to mention...did a soiund system upgrade whilst I was at it with an amp and new speakers..amazing difference. One of the great things is that all my CD's are loaded onto the hard drive and accessed through centrafuse which will also load an Ipod if you want...I don't use I so I just loaded direct onto the hard drive. No more CD's floating around in the truck and skipping on rough tracks.
I have run the wire but not fitted the rear view camera and have the gear for the phone but am going to upgrade to the new centrafuse version which handles IPhones better...time..just need time
I have run the wire but not fitted the rear view camera and have the gear for the phone but am going to upgrade to the new centrafuse version which handles IPhones better...time..just need time
nugget
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Managed to cross another mod off the list this weekend. A set of Mulgo long range tanks to take fuel capacity from 75L to 175L for some serious touring coming up latter this year.
Thanks to Daniel for getting it all together and as always his availablilty to answer all the questions I had. As it turned out, the fit was pretty straight forward with only a couple of small hitches.
When first unpacked it all looks a bit daunting but with Daniels schematics in hand and him on the phone it became clear as mud..not really but the phone call sure did help it all crystalise.
Pays to fit the hardware to the tanks before mounting them. The ball valves enable each tank to be isolated.
The sender unit sits under the drivers seat and it pays to drill an access hole in case the sender dies. As I had a 100mm hole saw which easily accommodated the 70mm sender.
All it needs now is a cover…
Tanks bolted in…check….sender access cut…check. Time to throw some wires around for the electric…My dash is getting a bit complicated these days but there was still room for the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] fuel guage.
Thanks to Daniel for getting it all together and as always his availablilty to answer all the questions I had. As it turned out, the fit was pretty straight forward with only a couple of small hitches.
When first unpacked it all looks a bit daunting but with Daniels schematics in hand and him on the phone it became clear as mud..not really but the phone call sure did help it all crystalise.
Pays to fit the hardware to the tanks before mounting them. The ball valves enable each tank to be isolated.
The sender unit sits under the drivers seat and it pays to drill an access hole in case the sender dies. As I had a 100mm hole saw which easily accommodated the 70mm sender.
All it needs now is a cover…
Tanks bolted in…check….sender access cut…check. Time to throw some wires around for the electric…My dash is getting a bit complicated these days but there was still room for the 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] fuel guage.
nugget
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
A wiring diagram always helps…although this one was drawn after the job…real men don’t read instructions anyway!
Plenty of hardware in the rea wheel arch. The stainless steel splitter box allows fuel to be distributed to the 2 tanks when filling and includes a breather to help stop air locks.
A little transfer pumps shuttles the fuel back into the main tank via the main filler pipe.
An extra pipe welded into the filler unit enables fuel to be directed to the main tank of the subs.
Plenty of hardware in the rea wheel arch. The stainless steel splitter box allows fuel to be distributed to the 2 tanks when filling and includes a breather to help stop air locks.
A little transfer pumps shuttles the fuel back into the main tank via the main filler pipe.
An extra pipe welded into the filler unit enables fuel to be directed to the main tank of the subs.
nugget
Well-Known Member
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Dash is tarting to look a bit Boeing 767’ish with the big screen and extra button but I love gadgets.
The genuine fuel gauge with light when on really finishes the job off.
The genuine fuel gauge with light when on really finishes the job off.
nugget
Well-Known Member
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I should have explained that there are 2 tanks, 1 is 40L and the other is 60L which are mid mounted along the chassis rails between the front and rear wheels. Centre of gravity is low, tanks are linked so weight is evenly distributed left to right as well as front to back.
Most rear mounted long range tanks get a bit of hammer off road...I had one truck with a 127L tank which became about 115L after a heavy wheeling weekend
Next stage will be to make some sliders which will incorporate bash plates to give extra protection to the tanks.
Most rear mounted long range tanks get a bit of hammer off road...I had one truck with a 127L tank which became about 115L after a heavy wheeling weekend
Next stage will be to make some sliders which will incorporate bash plates to give extra protection to the tanks.
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nugget
Well-Known Member
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
Final piece of puzzle...modification plate fitted so now it is all legal and Road Transport and/or the wallopers can not hassle me. Being law abiding when it comes to modifying trucks is a new experience for me!!! I must be mellowing
HUMMER INVESTMENTS
[o O IIIIIIII O o]
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- 3,518
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- Black Hawk, SD
:corn:
nugget
Well-Known Member
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Just realised I hadn't show the installed tank. There are 2 tanks .... one on each side.
Next job is to build rock slider which will also have a bash plate protection for the tanks and provide a cover for the fuel lines.
The slider will replace the existing sill and the bash plate will go from the slider, "skin" across the tank surface and then fix to the chassis rail.
Next job is to build rock slider which will also have a bash plate protection for the tanks and provide a cover for the fuel lines.
The slider will replace the existing sill and the bash plate will go from the slider, "skin" across the tank surface and then fix to the chassis rail.
nugget
Well-Known Member
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- 245
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Added a set of sliders which will ultimately incorporate bash plates to give extra protection for the sill tanks.
Made them from 75 X 25 box and at the moment have a coat of stone chip to stop any rusting whilst the bash plates are being folded.
Made them from 75 X 25 box and at the moment have a coat of stone chip to stop any rusting whilst the bash plates are being folded.
nugget
Well-Known Member
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- 245
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- Where Gunner_45 can not find me
Finally getting aound to a bit of an update....been busier than Gunner_45's toilet bowel cleaner in recent times.
Decided to re-do the joiner box I had previously fabricated for the snorkel so a clamped hose could replace the leak like a sieve Landrover air duct. As part of the process I thought I might try and get a larger 87mm hose in to give a bit better sir flow. Theory was excellent and the the new box looked good...
Small problem being it doesn't work! Bigger boss on the box for the bigger hose doesn't clear the antenna! Might have to ammend my old faithful measure twice, cut once, to measure thrice, cut once! Bugger
As it turned out, the bigger pipe also hits the steering knuckle. Guess I should have ripped it all out instead and started from scratch which is what I have ended up doing anyway!
Back to the drawing board.
Decided to re-do the joiner box I had previously fabricated for the snorkel so a clamped hose could replace the leak like a sieve Landrover air duct. As part of the process I thought I might try and get a larger 87mm hose in to give a bit better sir flow. Theory was excellent and the the new box looked good...
Small problem being it doesn't work! Bigger boss on the box for the bigger hose doesn't clear the antenna! Might have to ammend my old faithful measure twice, cut once, to measure thrice, cut once! Bugger
As it turned out, the bigger pipe also hits the steering knuckle. Guess I should have ripped it all out instead and started from scratch which is what I have ended up doing anyway!
Back to the drawing board.