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Lime Green Texas ROMAD Build...

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,358
Location
Meridian, ID
My disconnects won't work with yours because I have rancho end links. Yours are stock.

I feel like disconnecting will help vs hurt when it comes to breaking. Your letting suspension do more work. Hummer has designed in droop stops and bump stops that limit you from overextending a CV. For the rear you can use JKS disconnects or just unbolt and bolt up stock ones. It takes a wrench and the first time will be a bitch as they wanna spin but after that you should be fine. I would unbolt em in your driveway first
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
^ thank you. I'm definitely going to keep the theme or add more black down the line.

Im going to take a look and see if I can come up with some sort of quick disconnect system and post what I find. I've been spending some time under her, trying to take note of things that just hang down too much presently. I'd like to jump on the SOA but don't want to do that before the front end is done. I did see the build thread were they did just the rear SOA but I'm not a huge fan of the raked look and not really sure if it would be worth doing just yet. Yes, the clearance would be gained but not sure if I'd like to be just SOA in the rear and nothing up front.

Im looking at doing some sliders and Ucp and have seen some install a lower profile leaf hanger. Labor aside would this be worth doing over getting hanger slider? This is where I'd like to start getting into cost effective and mods that will continue to be useful as upgrades progress.
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
Basic mod for the day. I've had my jack clanking around and scratching the back storage area of the H3 for months now with intentions of doing something with it. After spending way too long searching on forums for DIY yourself ways to mount it I finally came across the perfect solution. I was initially going to use pipe clamps or exhaust clamps but after endless searching I noticed another member on here mounting theres directly to the rack. So I went that route. Total cost was under $6.

I have the Gobi rack (thank you previous owner) and pulled out two of the bolts on the side and replaced with with grade 8 hardware.







Then I used some spare conduit as a spacer. Cut it up with a hacksaw because I couldn't find my pipe cutter, misplaced it after the move. ( I hate not having a garage yet)



Installed washers on both ends and place it on the bolts.



Then just placed the jack on and mounted it with a larger washer, a locking washer and then a wing nut. Then wrench tightened everything. Also secured the jack lever up with three zip ties.









I will be adding a flexible lock that came with many of my gun purchases to it but its super snug and has not play at all. I may add a 4" bolt to give it a little more space from the rack due to the backside resting right against it but may not as I dont want to stick it too far out and add more length. Not sure yet but those grade 8's should hold up fine regardless. Pretty basic mod that I spent WAY too much time researching how I was going to do it but it came out extremely inexpensive and took me about 30 minutes to do.
 

Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,349
Location
Rockford IL
Interesting color for an H3, I like it.

I honestly don't think the IFS is that weak any more. I think the real problem is the driver and that crush sleeve inside it. Going off-road is about finesse, not brute force.
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
^ Very true. Its always when the pedal start getting floored that I see things breaking. That or hopping.. Wheel hop always seems to be followed with loud popping and metal hitting the ground.

What makes a CI housing stronger than the 06/07 front ends? The internals are the same correct? So is it mainly impact strength?
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,452
Location
Scottsdale
I believe the main difference between the CI and the aluminum ones is that the CI flexes less and the pieces stay in place.
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
Well she's at the dealer. Not my first choice but I figured I should at least try and make use of the warranty. Won't pay for that again in the future. I've bought enough used cars I should have known better. May take this back if anything happens to the power train though lol. As soon as I get an update I'll post the news.

(I was having front end "popping/slight clunking noises when turning. Got some great input from a thread I posted so we'll see who was right after all)
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
So I took her to the dealership two days ago (Figured I'd make use of the warranty) but after looking at everything for a few hours they could only confirm that they heard and felt the popping but couldn't find the source. The popping could for sure be felt in the passenger floor board. The mechanics said they could feel it when they road in it. They checked everything from the hubs, CV's, crossmember bushing etc. They told me that the H3 is in really good shape overall but they needed to get the stethoscope out to dig further to find the issue. Problem was that they said the warranty most likely wouldn't cover it so I just told them to put it all back together.

I think I'm going to try and take a look at the steering components though. As mentioned above I can feel it when turning at almost full lock so it may be in there. The steering has never felt loose though but I guess we will see.
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
Got some more pictures from the last offroad trip so I figured I would share. Besides, pictures bring me to these threads so I figure others may enjoy as well:







 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
This picture makes her look like a true R/C Car:






I think I have this one posted but I haven't started disconnecting my swaybars yet (I will starting next trip) and still get decent flex in the rear. I'm pretty excited if disconnecting will give me more. Definitely have extended shackles coming in the future too.

 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
What should I expect to pay for just the front half of the rancho suspension lift? Anyone just buy the front?
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
^ That's a little frustrating, Rancho sure did monopolize the market with that didn't they? lol It's a bit rediculous that our options are that we can either do a under $100 torsion bar + shackle lift or a $2k 4" Rancho suspension lift... Ok enough venting. lol

Seeing as it's just not practical for me to drop that for 4" before I do other things I'd like to get a list going of things that will help me get to the next level from where I am.

From what I've read this is what I've thought of so far. Please feel free to add or tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.

First issue to address is low dragging items. Fixes include:
- Extended rear shackles
- Rear diff skid
- Rear leaf hanger skids
- High Clearance Leaf spring mounts (Hope to hold me over until I do SOA but waiting to do front lift for that..)
- UCP
- Rock Rails

Obviously grip is a huge issue as well so:
Tires - 35 M/t's (Even work ones would be better than my street treads, I'm just milking the extra clearance and width with these for now)

Front and rear Protection/skids:
Bumpers - Not sure on which brand or to see what Fru and I can come up with in the future. I do have some ideas..

Engine:
- Intake or snorkel
- PCM tune
- Tune-up as it needs

Spare Parts to carry around:
- Tie Rods
- CV
- Tools
- SFA.... lol


Long list but a good step in the right direction I think. Please feel free to add input or refer me to the best options for the above items. If I'm all over the place or should go with one thing over another based off experience let me know. Thanks again.
 
Last edited:

frumaker

Well-Known Member
Messages
455
Location
killeen, tx
I can help you out with rear leaf skids on the cheap and I have everything needed to do them at anytime. Just need about 30 minutes of time. Let me know ideas about the rest.

I ran 33's, ucp, sliders, and rear leaf skids. Never even thought about running anything different except for 35's.


FRU
 

persius1

Well-Known Member
Messages
103
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Welcome to the madness ROM4D lol. Once you start, it never seems to end. Good luck with your mods.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
Thank you guys

Fru, I just need to figure out a good weekend that we are both free to head up to you see what we can get started with.
 

frumaker

Well-Known Member
Messages
455
Location
killeen, tx
[Q UOTE=ROM4D;129585]Thank you guys

Fru, I just need to figure out a good weekend that we are both free to head up to you see what we can get started with.[/QUOTE]
Let me know



FRU
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
From what I've read this is what I've thought of so far. Please feel free to add or tell me I'm headed in the wrong direction.

First issue to address is low dragging items. Fixes include:
- Extended rear shackles
- Rear diff skid
- Rear leaf hanger skids
- High Clearance Leaf spring mounts (Hope to hold me over until I do SOA but waiting to do front lift for that..)
- UCP
- Rock Rails

Obviously grip is a huge issue as well so:
Tires - 35 M/t's (Even work ones would be better than my street treads, I'm just milking the extra clearance and width with these for now)

Front and rear Protection/skids:
Bumpers - Not sure on which brand or to see what Fru and I can come up with in the future. I do have some ideas..

Well...in regards to the "low dragging items":

-Shackles?...don't do much for ground clearance...they only raise the body. Big dragging items are all related to the axle.
-Rear diff skid? It actually decreases ground clearance (but saves your yoke).
-Hanger skids? Same thing...you'll drag more after than before.
-High Clearance Spring plates? I suppose its better than stock but they seem hardly worth the effort for such a minimal gain.
-UCP? Same thing...costs you ground clearance. However...unlike the rest of the your parts, the alternative (smashed t-case) is not so cheap to fix.
-Rock Rails? Good idea. GM still has the best IMO.

You can forget most of this stuff with the SOA...but the biggest concern with that is trying to keep the rear lift down to something usable. The SOA by itself is very cheap but, its tough to do without the Rancho on the front. Considering the cost of the parts on your list, and the effort to install them...I think buying the front half of a Rancho is a better value in the long run.

-TIRES! Hell yes. Spend money on that for sure...you'll go nowhere on the ones you're currently running.

-I love custom bumpers and I always encourage people to do their own fabricating. However, if you don't want to fool with making them...look me up. I just picked up a batch of THORparts bumpers, and I'm looking to move em. How bout a front/rear package deal?
 

ROM4D

Well-Known Member
Messages
64
Location
Austin
I agree that buying the Rancho would be better in the long run but in the meantime I'd still like to grow in my capabilities.

To touch on some of the points above:
Shackles - I understand that these do nothing for the mentioned ground clearance but they would be strictly for a little more flex and lift to help with the rear sagging a bit.
Rear Diff Skid - Purple Cranium Rock Guard, so I guess not really a "skid". This way nothing will hang down low but it'll protect the diff.
Hanger skids - Hunner Style. These may hang about 1/4" lower but from what I've read from everyone they seem to help alot compared to getting hung up like I have been and bashing in my hangers. lol. OR just get a lower profile hanger and cutoff the large ones and replace them.
High Clearance Spring Plates - Schwartzy. These look like they measure up at least a 2" difference. For an hours worth of work I feel like these would be well worth the extra clearance.

I understand some of the skids will cost me anout 1/4" or 1/2" clearance but will be well worth having some more protection underneath.

^ I could be interested in some THOR parts. Could you PM me some pricing? I'm still leaning towards coming up with something but I can always be swayed. lol


On the note of high clearance skid plates, I've also read some people mention U-bolt flips and reversing/flipping the shock hanger while keeping it SUA but freeing up the space. Anyone done this? I'm interested in seeing what I can do with this idea as a backup.
 

Chocflip201

In the Rocky Mountains
Messages
585
Location
Utah
I agree it sucks that Rancho pretty much has the monopoly on the 4" lift. But not a lot of companies are eager to get into making products for vehicles that aren't made anymore.

That being said, I reccomend you buy the front half of the Rancho kit. It has greatly increased my offroad capabilities. I went with the full Rancho kit and considering my options, I love it.

I have some plans to make it better, and eventually weed out all the Rancho parts. But still for right now it's a great step in the right direction.
 
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