• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

H3 Straight axle Swap

silvrzuki77

Well-Known Member
Messages
556
Location
Vegas
Guess I should of paid more attention to that lol.my buddies truck was 2wd and he did a divorced ford np205 guess that explains it. Hey old dodge are passenger drop! I think???
 
Last edited:

SickStringC

Well-Known Member
Messages
302
Location
Austin, TX
Did that but there is still the electronic control that you can turn off that was buzzing away and cutting the throttle way back... unless I didn't hold it fo long enough or something but the screen said TC off...

Hold the button for about 5 seconds. The stability control light should illuminate in the dash cluster - Active Stability Control is now off. Push button again, light goes out, stability control is re-enabled.


Sent from my mind via telepathy.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
OKAY boys I am getting excited to try this out again this weekend!!!! Because I deff didn't hold it down for any more than a second!!!
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
The traction control can never completely be turned off. I have a manual and do not have stability control. When I hold the traction button down the light comes on but when I get any variation of wheel speed you can hear the abs system clicking away. It has been like this on my other two H3 I have owned. I think it is a safety measure.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
The traction control can never completely be turned off. I have a manual and do not have stability control. When I hold the traction button down the light comes on but when I get any variation of wheel speed you can hear the abs system clicking away. It has been like this on my other two H3 I have owned. I think it is a safety measure.

I agree. On my 3 with traction/stabil all off, i still feel some sort off interference in extremely loose surfaces at speed
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,499
Location
Meridian, ID
That's weird....I hold it off for 5 seconds and I can sit there in mud and let it spin the tires and rev that little I5 to redline.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,211
Location
massachusetts
The motor will rev but the system is still working. I was thinking of finding a way to install a switch but the systems are so intertwined
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,499
Location
Meridian, ID
Maybe I should start a new thread so I dont completely hijack here but how does the system hurt in deep snow/mud? The scenario I was talking about was way way back in the day when I had bald 32s that were the original tires in deep mud.

Usually the system helps me out here in the rocks, let front end spin slowly and wait for the other tire to grab. Now that I will have a front locker in a few weeks does the system still limit me even if I truly have all 4 tires spinning.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
I have an 06 and an 09. I dont get any interference in the 06. But in the 09 I can tell there is interference albeit slight.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I'd be interested in any updates on the original subject of this thread!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
On the front driveshaft, you'll need the double-cardan flange that mates to the stock H3's t-case flange. Its nothing exotic but, there is only one company that makes it...(I think I got a couple of them lying around). The rest of the front driveshaft can be ordinary full-size stuff. I run standard u-joints on my rear driveshaft, with a stock slip yoke. Depending on the travel...you might have to run a cardan on the rear shaft as well (I think Bebe runs this). As of right now...I'm not aware of anybody that makes a SYE kit for the rear output, so we're all stuck with the slip yoke.

I got front ABS rings that work. You'll have to do some machining to install them on your D60 hubs, and you'll need to mount your stock sensors somewhere on the knuckles to read them...but, I'm sure it can be done. On the rear ABS...you got two choices. You can adapt some stock rear H3 rings (they look more like sleeves than rings)...these will sit inside the tubes much like they do on a stock H3 rear axle. OR...you might be able to mount the same front rings to the rear brake rotors or hubs somehow. I'm not familiar with the Sterling but it can probably be done. Depending on what it came from...you might be able to simply re-use the ABS rings that are already on it. I do know that you must have separate RH and LH rings for the H3 to operate correctly....so any type of single sensor on the diff won't work. More & more trucks are going to the four-sensor layout...so its possible that if the rear axle is newer than 2010 or so...it might be a plug & play.

I have no idea what sort of issues you will have by simply abandoning the ABS. On older GM stuff...you're problems were limited to just "putting up with the dash-light". But on the newer generation systems with integrated TCS and Stabilitrac...you're probably opening up a barrel of monkeys. 07custom has been driving around for years with his ABS missing....he would be the guy to talk to.

Reporting for Duty SIR! no ABS will be a thing of the past very soon. I'll be contacting you to get this going...your kit is constantly in back of my mind...on the front of my mind, getting this steering thing going in the right direction! :shame:
 

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
When I first installed my rancho lift I forgot to properly secure the ABS sensor. It clipped the tire and teared it. Off road my system was going haywire leaving me with zero traction.

Im stoked to see this, I am probably a year behind you. I wont be on a lift, I will be on jackstands, in the middle of summer in 110 degree heat.

You can buy the dynatrac D60 hubs and use them for ABS for the front. Not sure what your gonna do on the rear. JK boxes have forward facing pitman arms or atleast my brothers JK does...but I remember recon said its not powerful enough for the H3.

My goal is to follow 4speeds rig. daily driving ability is a must, comfortably at that. At anytime hop in the truck and drive across country without concern. Off road capability will come. The lowest ride height SAS H3 is 07 custom. 4speed and I talked about that. If I could I want to keep the rig as low as possible and I have been thinking of some ideas to do that. Possibly as low as I have it now, spring over rear nets 5in for me and then 5in the front. I am not afraid to cut those HUGE fenders! 4-5in of uptravel would be nice but not sure how feasible that is without frame rail notching and oil pan clearancing.

hey it seems pretty big to me! it is honestly quite high compared to a stock H3. I feel big when I park next to em.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,499
Location
Meridian, ID
I'd say 5-10k in labor. I know it's a big range but it all depends on what kind of suspension you do and how much bling you get, add ram assist it will add time, add coilovers it will add time to tuning etc etc. then 5-10k on parts maybe a little less if you leave 4.56 gears open diff no axle mods. Buy junkyard parts etc.
 

Mb30sdl

Hamster that pokes Bears
Messages
1,588
Location
Raleigh area NC
15-20k is a correct range with top of the line parts 20k (Dana rock 60 with cv shafts, ABS sensors, any gearing you want,ARB air lockers, coil overs with bypass shocks and fully adjustable).
 
Top