FJ4overland

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 22, 2015

I went with Spartan lockers front and rear... no electrics, no air hoses, no clever springs... no sliding down roads backwards... just amazing understeer under power.

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 26, 2015

well, work accomplished
while I'm waiting for another carrier (an open carrier), I figured I'd pull apart the limited slip that came with the dana 60 and see its condition... rebuildable...

there's the spartan locker waiting for its new housing

so these tiny tires will be the rollers (though I will, I suppose be forced to use them)... I got them for cheap because the guy thought he had radials... uh, no. 36x12.5 16.5 on 8" rims... but they are basically brand new

much trimming would need to occur to put these where the stock axle is located

anyway, the rest of my week is going to be doing less fun stuff that shop stuff.... cpr, etc....

4speedfunk · Jan 27, 2015

Have you considered a stretch on the wheelbase? I have a buddy that is building a Cummins-powered TJ, and the stretch really helped with the rear 4-link geometry (and also the large tires). I think he ended up with a 4" stretch on the rear and a 3" or so on the front. Also...he is running 14-bolt/Dana 60 (physically very large) so the extra room really helps get the suspension installed. It probably adds some high-speed stability too. On any other rig...probably not an issue but, your FJ is really short. That last photo is the first time I've seen the entire truck in one frame, and now I see how stubby it really is.

This thing should be insane with V8 power! Can't wait to see it in action.

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 27, 2015

the answer is I am -

just not as much as the self-appointed experts on Pirate think I should... the other side of the coin is turning radius, you can stretch the WB to long bed, extended cab truck - but it'll kill your ability to maneuver on a trail.

4speedfunk · Jan 27, 2015

True. Too much wheelbase and you'll be as handicapped as an H3T!

And keep chopping (no matter the rubs). I totally get it.

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 27, 2015

thanks!

Cyouincourt007 · Jan 27, 2015

"Self appointed experts" lol...I agree with 4 speed, this things going to be raw and fun to drive I imagine.
Is the Spartan locker the same thing you mentioned above "all gear trac lock" or something totally different?

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 28, 2015

loc-rite was the first, to my knowledge there are 3 companies who make this style of locker - they all simply replace the side gears with a bit that ratchets... brutally simple, but effective.

Cyouincourt007 · Jan 28, 2015

Cool, simple things are great, Scotty once said "the more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop the drain" , as he pulled chips and swapped them out to sabotage a ship. Needless to say that ship wasn't going too far from space station anytime soon.

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 30, 2015

So, I made a trade
these

for these

I'm in the tires and wheels less than $1000

RamRod · Jan 30, 2015

What size are the new ones?

Sent from handheld smoke signal device

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 30, 2015

38x13x16

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 31, 2015

back to opinions... first... look at both of these ICON builds

in one, the rear wheel is forward, the other, the wheel is back. I propose doing both - opening up the rear fender and extending the rear section 3 1/2" to both clear the new tires and still have a traditional-looking FJ40. Front axle is moving forward 2" or so (I want the tightest turning radius, so to clear the 38s, the front needs to move forward a bit).
but the question. Broncos pull off the same elevation of rear wheel well and the front wheel well - so do I simply move the rear back 3 1/2" and weld in a filler or do I do a bit more work and raise the wheel well thus keeping the proportion?
obviously this requires sheet metal work, and I think I can fake knowing what I'm doing, but that proportion is just being a bugger to visualize.

4speedfunk · Feb 1, 2015

On my buddy's TJ the rear 4-link geometry drove that bus. Without moving the axle rearward...the links were so short that they really didn't do much. The rear driveshaft ended up being less than two feet long....and that's with the stretch!

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 1, 2015

the driveshaft will be ~20" .... actually, today I'm planning on pull the rear out and eyeballing it with the new rear... that will answer that question. In other news, a set of suggestions on IH8MUD led me to this solution for the rear opening.

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 1, 2015

out with the old

mockup

so the black area is what I'm thinking I'll cut out once I get the 4" flares...

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 1, 2015

anyway, more considerations

the line is where the wheel is moved forward.
stella is not sure that moving the wheel forward 2" is a good idea

still not sure and is stepping away from the guy with the camera

Kensie is just here for the treats

moved forward a bit

this is ride height

squaring holes

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 2, 2015

this is the interesting stuff to me - it's a lot of bookish crap; but it truly is, to me, the stuff that makes or breaks any car.

On Pirate is a calculator that Dan BarCroft created in 2004.

this kind of thing you get by using it

Four wheeler has a pretty detailed article that kind of gives baselines with where to start.... of course, it helps to have done a suspension or twenty in the past...
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/suspension-brakes/131-0307-four-link-suspension-part-2/

as you know by my roll bars, I'm more visual than paper - so get the baselines and put them on the floor to see if it works

then transfer the "optimal" measurements to the frame to see if it will work.... I think I'll be fine if I can drill a hole through the transfer case.... bright side is the top mount is in a great place.... only everything relies upon stuff fitting... the solution is to raise the frame 2" or so... which works out pretty good because the transfer case cross member, is 2" lower than the frame... I honestly don't plan this, but the reason it's tacked rather than bolted is because I was afraid I was going to have to move it....

this is what it will look like in the vehicle

anyway, tonight I verify, and tomorrow as well, Wednesday I get the upper support and so Thursday I can burn it in.... I may weld the lower brackets and the cross member in place along with the frame mounts.... presuming, again, that the numbers work out

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 2, 2015

Here's my tentative starting point

4 Bar Linkage Calculator v3.0
Vehicle CG	40.00
Sprung Mass CG	49.00	in
Anti-Squat CG	43.42	in
Suspension Geometry:
Upper Links	x	y	z
Frame End	23.000	15.000	26.000	in
Axle End	0.000	4.500	26.000	in
Vector	23.000	10.500	0.000	in
Length	25.283	in
Unit Vector	0.9097	0.4153	0.0000	1.0000
Intercept	-9.8571	4.5000	26.0000	in
Roll Point	-9.8571	0.0000	26.0000	in
Force	6183.439	lb (Tension)
Force Vector	5625.000	2567.935	0.000	lb
Vertical Slope	0.4565	in/in
Horizontal Slope	0.0000	in/in
Lower Links	x	y	z
Frame End	33.000	3.750	21.000	in
Axle End	3.000	15.500	18.000	in
Vector	30.000	-11.750	3.000	in
Length	32.358	in
Unit Vector	0.9271	-0.3631	0.0927	1.0000
Intercept	42.5745	16.6750	17.7000	in
Roll Point	42.5745	0.0000	21.9574	in
Force	-8446.958	lb (Compression)
Force Vector	-7831.325	3067.269	-783.133	lb
Vertical Slope	-0.3917	in/in
Horizontal Slope	0.100	in/in
Geometry Summary:
Anti-Squat	68.179	%
Roll Axis Slope	-0.0771	in/in (Roll Understeer)
Roll Center Height	25.240	in
Roll Axis Angle	-4.409	degrees (Roll Understeer)
Instant Center X-Axis	83.000	in
Instant Center Z-Axis	26.000	in

4speedfunk · Feb 3, 2015

Oh that clears it up.

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 3, 2015

well, glad to be of help
flares - Jeeps make for good donor vehicles

so I don't know what I'm going to do with the rear edge... at this moment, I think it would look best if I decreased the rear, upper radius - but that would be a bit of work.... I could just shorten it...

Cyouincourt007 · Feb 4, 2015

Coming along nicely sir. :woot:

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 5, 2015

well, I moved the flare up a bit, did some creative work with painter's tape, and think I have a plan... no picture of that work, but a plan...

in other news... braces n brackets

started welding but didn't finish because I didn't want to put too much heat in it.... I also ran out of shielding gas, so that slowed things down a bit too

and with coil spring plates sitting in place

I also think I'm going to make this beast run sooner rather than later, so I got a carb

that's all for tonight... thanks for reading

4speedfunk · Feb 6, 2015

Carb? Whats that? No EFI?

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 6, 2015

efi is later... to get it started is a carb.

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