I keep finding orphaned posts that grow into detailed information that people are looking for. I will build this here just for information purposes for people wanting to know. I can then refer them to this link. I do not have any connection with BulletProof I just worked with them to make some tie rods for me as the prototyper as they had no access to an H3. So I will work on moving some stuff recreated on here and drag in other information condensed some what that I quit posting. It may take me a while to reconstruct.
I was working with a friend back in 06 on some ideas for tie rods that I worked with on open wheel formula cars when we ran across someone using BP design parts on a Bronco.
We decided why re-invent some thing somebody else already figured out and I called Randy.
I never saw so many options on his website now. Mine were first as he told me I would have to do all the measuring because he did not have an H3. I spent a month taking things apart and following a long list of instructions. Then I had to throw in my ideas specifically for the H3. That was just to get the prototype made. Then I fitted those and listed some changes needed to clear things and had to adjust my suspension as well using mods I already did. I shot many digital images to send to him and we talked on the phone a lot while I was on a creeper!
Looks like after that he made that list of options. I would have to study all that some but sounds like I have a combination of several of those. "Hunner version"
He did add me some little cross pieces on the clevis when I was trying to get boots to stay on but he said that was pain in the rear and would not offer that except by special order. I later found that just tightening the hell out of those good toggle hose clamps I could get the boots to stay on so I don't think those are needed.
I did choose the trail proof version size, I figured I would have clearance problems with anything bigger and these are huge compared to stock.
I at that time was cranked to 24 inches but also came down to 23.5 when I got the prototype to clear the ant-sway bar even with longer links, (gosh I wonder if that is where that figure came from I see stated all the time, now?)
I have the misalignment spacers at the outer end and a special washer and mine are mounted on top of the knuckle arm.
I have the best spherical rod ends he offered after a number of people said Heims were not good, but that was on Jeeps and maybe those were not this hi-tech or came from the hardware store. I know several lift kits for Jeeps came with less than reliable Heims style rod ends.
I have the bend at the outer end because I wanted the rod ends to be level when sitting at rest so they could start there and go the max either way.
I had a clearance problem with the lateral bolts that connect the tie rod to the clevis where they slide between part of the frame.
He had me grind them down to clear for a pattern and then he had new bolts made so they would be plated. The guy is meticulous for detail in his machining.
We agreed on a torque setting so the holes for the cotter pins would line up at that setting. It's tough to drill in 9.7 bolts.
Everything else I modded and adjusted so I did not have any clearance problems lock to lock or level or full droop.
I will also add despite some one of questionable knowledge stating that the problem with these is they cause bump steer, that without ever having any. Maarveloous!
I DO NOT HAVE BUMP STEER!
I did have some I could feel over whoop de doos at speed with the OEM, they flex. That I concluded by seeing a number of them bend first and then break. They flexed!
I noticed the lack of that and the spring action that did to the front end. When I told him that he laughed and said he wondered if I would notice that, why heck yea me and my H3 are close! First thing I did was hit the trails that I used to have to go slow on or bounce all over the place. Zoom zoom very little hood lifting.
I in the past posted very specific details and then he asked me to remove some of that on the forum I was on at the time because of comments from said person and a couple of others which had doubts that now, 80,000+ miles have proven to be baseless. The spherical rod ends are still firm. I sometimes go wheeling and occasionally post some pictures.
I think where the options came into play was that some people with Rancho or Tuff Country contacted him and thus 4 inch more lift would change all our calculations.
Randy also lists a bunch of specs to measure and I think that is as much as wanting to make sure all H3's are the same as it is he wants to make sure the person doing this doesn't think it's a one size fits all slap it on and take off kind of mod.
Because at the time mine was the only one with them fitted.
I helped someone fill all that out and walked them thru how to do the measurement and we came up real close to the same thing. However I don't think they spent the money.
Good gosh here I go again on a long post but short ones just raise questions and long ones might also but I tried.
"This is just nuts and bolts but they have to be in the right order." Hunner 2012
I was working with a friend back in 06 on some ideas for tie rods that I worked with on open wheel formula cars when we ran across someone using BP design parts on a Bronco.
We decided why re-invent some thing somebody else already figured out and I called Randy.
I never saw so many options on his website now. Mine were first as he told me I would have to do all the measuring because he did not have an H3. I spent a month taking things apart and following a long list of instructions. Then I had to throw in my ideas specifically for the H3. That was just to get the prototype made. Then I fitted those and listed some changes needed to clear things and had to adjust my suspension as well using mods I already did. I shot many digital images to send to him and we talked on the phone a lot while I was on a creeper!
Looks like after that he made that list of options. I would have to study all that some but sounds like I have a combination of several of those. "Hunner version"
He did add me some little cross pieces on the clevis when I was trying to get boots to stay on but he said that was pain in the rear and would not offer that except by special order. I later found that just tightening the hell out of those good toggle hose clamps I could get the boots to stay on so I don't think those are needed.
I did choose the trail proof version size, I figured I would have clearance problems with anything bigger and these are huge compared to stock.
I at that time was cranked to 24 inches but also came down to 23.5 when I got the prototype to clear the ant-sway bar even with longer links, (gosh I wonder if that is where that figure came from I see stated all the time, now?)
I have the misalignment spacers at the outer end and a special washer and mine are mounted on top of the knuckle arm.
I have the best spherical rod ends he offered after a number of people said Heims were not good, but that was on Jeeps and maybe those were not this hi-tech or came from the hardware store. I know several lift kits for Jeeps came with less than reliable Heims style rod ends.
I have the bend at the outer end because I wanted the rod ends to be level when sitting at rest so they could start there and go the max either way.
I had a clearance problem with the lateral bolts that connect the tie rod to the clevis where they slide between part of the frame.
He had me grind them down to clear for a pattern and then he had new bolts made so they would be plated. The guy is meticulous for detail in his machining.
We agreed on a torque setting so the holes for the cotter pins would line up at that setting. It's tough to drill in 9.7 bolts.
Everything else I modded and adjusted so I did not have any clearance problems lock to lock or level or full droop.
I will also add despite some one of questionable knowledge stating that the problem with these is they cause bump steer, that without ever having any. Maarveloous!
I DO NOT HAVE BUMP STEER!
I did have some I could feel over whoop de doos at speed with the OEM, they flex. That I concluded by seeing a number of them bend first and then break. They flexed!
I noticed the lack of that and the spring action that did to the front end. When I told him that he laughed and said he wondered if I would notice that, why heck yea me and my H3 are close! First thing I did was hit the trails that I used to have to go slow on or bounce all over the place. Zoom zoom very little hood lifting.
I in the past posted very specific details and then he asked me to remove some of that on the forum I was on at the time because of comments from said person and a couple of others which had doubts that now, 80,000+ miles have proven to be baseless. The spherical rod ends are still firm. I sometimes go wheeling and occasionally post some pictures.
I think where the options came into play was that some people with Rancho or Tuff Country contacted him and thus 4 inch more lift would change all our calculations.
Randy also lists a bunch of specs to measure and I think that is as much as wanting to make sure all H3's are the same as it is he wants to make sure the person doing this doesn't think it's a one size fits all slap it on and take off kind of mod.
Because at the time mine was the only one with them fitted.
I helped someone fill all that out and walked them thru how to do the measurement and we came up real close to the same thing. However I don't think they spent the money.
Good gosh here I go again on a long post but short ones just raise questions and long ones might also but I tried.
"This is just nuts and bolts but they have to be in the right order." Hunner 2012
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