This is directly from Bilsteins site....
Series: 4600 Series
Part Number: 24-188401
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-C513-H1
Collapsed Length (IN): 17.1
Extended Length (IN): 22.17
Lower Mount Type: Eye 14.2mm
Upper Mount Type: pin
Internal Design: Monotube
Finish: Yellow paint
Boot Included: Blue straight
Series: 5100 Series (Ride Height Adjustable)
Part Number: 24-186711
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-C475-H1
*Collapsed Length (IN): 17.03
*Extended Length (IN): 22.56
Lower Mount Type: Eye 14.2mm
Upper Mount Type: Stem
Internal Design: Monotube
Finish: Zinc plated
Reservoir: No
Body Design: 46mm ID snap ring grooved body (Coilover)
Boot Included: Black straight
Is that the Bilstien you are using? Adjustable coil over? Do the coils clear the a-arms?
I have tried to find a coil over of some brand, not for total torsion bar replacement but like an overload shock for pickups that would fit but have been told it was not available in the proper mounts for the H3. So someday want to mod some mounts.
That is not the Bilstein that is being used on an H3 or at least by most people I know of, my self included.
The package Phil at Trail Duty came up with was the model for the front below and can be purchased with the 1/2 longer bump stops which fits the way my H3 is set up. What a coincidence?
F4-BE5-C153-HO
GM K1500 LFTD FRT Zinc
Comparing any new shock to a set of OEM you have 50,000+ miles on is not really a good comparison.
It sounds like ride height has become involved in evaluating a shock, true it should be considered but both brands of shocks should be run at the same height to also level out the comparison. Over cranking the torsions will induce some other ride characteristics that may or may not be acceptable to some, as I have read.
I guess the judgement of shocks like most things is relative to the setup. Torsion lift amount, tire pressure, tire size and type, amount of weight you have on the front end and total amount of added weight and driving surface and what vehicle you are comparing the ride to.
My OEM with 40,000 miles and lots of rough road service got to where they could not control the ride. Curves on studder bump gravel and dirt roads the rear end would bounce around to the side (until stabiltrack control kicked in) and the front end was bouncing.
I happened to try the common replacement 5100 series in the model stated above and of course were better than worn OEM. They seemed to control things much better. How much better compared to new OEM, well don't know and can't say. I do however feel these are working well, have not leaked, yet, and were the added length I needed. So I am pleased with mine but always look forward to something better for my type of driving.
Having your rig set up so it hammers the shock at it's limits will destroy just about any off the shelf shock.
