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Steering Wheel Offset

mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
I’ve searched on the forum for the answer to my problem but haven’t found one. So I just replaced the intermediate and lower steering shafts. I made sure not to move the steering wheel and replaced everything as it was before I pulled the old stuff off. The steering slop was corrected and the steering feels brand new but now my steering wheel is offset to the right by, my guess, 45 degrees. I checked my tierod lengths. Driver side is 11 3/4” and passenger side is 11 5/8”. Is there a dial indicator on the rack that shows true center? Could the excessive play in the steering wheel have been that bad that during alignments the steering wheel migrated to the right? Anyone ever run into or heard of this being an issue after replacing the shafts?


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Mb30sdl

Mb30sdl

Hamster that pokes Bears
Messages
1,586
Location
Irvine,ca
Just set your wheels straight, pull off steering shaft, reposition steering wheel to center, reinstall steering shaft, take it to alignment shop.


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Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Did you buy it aftermarket or AC Delco?

I just replaced the intermediate shaft on mine too with an ebay aftermarket unit. I noticed immediately when I set the old and new shafts side-by-side that the lower end of the shaft was NOT welded square like the original shaft. It was rotated slightly. Therefore the wheel was 'off' when I installed it just as I'd predicted. Probably the same with yours. Theoretically, these shafts should be set in a jig and welded with parts 'square', so for a shaft to NOT be welded correctly is incredibly sloppy workmanship. I entertained cutting the bottom plate off the shaft and re-welding it 'square' (because I wanted to get the job done). Of course there's an outside chance the reverse is true (your original shaft wasn't 'true'). If you look at your original shaft alignment, if the plates line up, it's probably the new one not welded 'square'. For this reason I suggest H3 owners to buy an AC Delco intermediate shaft.

Mine was "off" center by, say, 15-ish degrees. That's only a partial turn of the steering wheel. Any more and I'd have sent it back. Ultimately I re-aligned the tow-in and now the steering wheel is 'square" when driving down the road. It was easy to adjust. As little as yours is 'off' it's probably enough to re-adjust the tow-in to get your steering wheel 'square' again.

Getting the front of the tires about 1/16 - 1/8" in from the rear would be about right.
 
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Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Did you use the locking pin required when replacing the shafts?
Click to expand...

I admit, I didn't read that section of the manual first, why would the pin be *required*? The column locks in place when the ignition (key) is in the 'lock' position. I carefully lowered the steering column (in place) down onto the driver's seat, not rotating it. I would think the 'pin' is more for transporting the column out of the vehicle for service where the potential for uncontrolled rotation would be greater. But then, I never read that portion in the manual either (will do tonight). But look forward to being elightened. (don't mean that sarcastically)

I'll put the scanner on tonight and see if there are any codes (CEL is on for something else right now). But so far I haven't noticed anything. But I agree, the Pin sounds like a good practice.

Replacing the intermediate shafts was the final item that brought my rig's steering back to a near-new feeling. Well worth it for anyone with over 100k. But check 'alignment' of the welded parts on the new shafts when you take it out of the box ..and return it if the holes and flats don't line up true. You can tell by looking at it if segments are welded out of alignment. Otherwise, the aftermarket quality looked fine. They use bolts at the flexible coupler instead of pressed in studs. But the pressed in studs on my upper intermediate shaft were 'sloppy' and a little loose too.

In general, as a good practice, an owner should AVOID cranking on the steering wheel whenever the vehicle is NOT running. Or, put another way, Only turn the steering wheel when the vehicle is running and power steering is available (when possible). It puts extra stress on steering components otherwise. Obviously emergency situations not withstanding.
 
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Traxx

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
The H3 steering doesn't lock unless it's a manual trans.


Jeepwalker said:
I admit, I didn't read that section of the manual first, why would the pin be *required*? The column locks in place when the ignition (key) is in the 'lock' position. I carefully lowered the steering column (in place) down onto the driver's seat, not rotating it. I would think the 'pin' is more for transporting the column out of the vehicle for service where the potential for uncontrolled rotation would be greater. But then, I never read that portion in the manual either (will do tonight). But look forward to being elightened. (don't mean that sarcastically)

I'll put the scanner on tonight and see if there are any codes (CEL is on for something else right now). But so far I haven't noticed anything. But I agree, the Pin sounds like a good practice.

Replacing the intermediate shafts was the final item that brought my rig's steering back to a near-new feeling. Well worth it for anyone with over 100k. But check 'alignment' of the welded parts on the new shafts when you take it out of the box ..and return it if the holes and flats don't line up true. You can tell by looking at it if segments are welded out of alignment. Otherwise, the aftermarket quality looked fine. They use bolts at the flexible coupler instead of pressed in studs. But the pressed in studs on my upper intermediate shaft were 'sloppy' and a little loose too.

In general, as a good practice, an owner should AVOID cranking on the steering wheel whenever the vehicle is NOT running. Or, put another way, Only turn the steering wheel when the vehicle is running and power steering is available (when possible). It puts extra stress on steering components otherwise. Obviously emergency situations not withstanding.
Click to expand...
 
mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
They are both aftermarket pieces. I lined the old pieces next to the new ones and everything seemed to line up. Didn’t notice or check for any welds. I will though. Ordering new tires soon so I’m hoping an alignment will square up the steering wheel. I have a new problem now. While trying to disconnect the return line for the power steering pump, I broke the nipple off the reservoir. No one carries just the reservoir. Looks like I’ll be buying a used pump with a reservoir. I tried plastic welding a nipple back on but it didn’t hold. A two hour job turned into a 2 week job.


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alrock

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,450
Location
Scottsdale
mjferencak said:
I have a new problem now. While trying to disconnect the return line for the power steering pump, I broke the nipple off the reservoir. No one carries just the reservoir. Looks like I’ll be buying a used pump with a reservoir. I tried plastic welding a nipple back on but it didn’t hold. A two hour job turned into a 2 week job.
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Click to expand...
Ugh
 
Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Not the best place to use plastic ...sucks!!

I wonder ....could a guy drill out and enlarge the hole where the broken nipple was and adapt a threaded nipple to it? Something along the lines of a steel tire stem but larger.
 
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Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Hey Guys, does the Tech2 scanner read steering angle on the H3's? I checked last night, that's one thing I didn't see on my Snappy scanner, unless I missed it. Or maybe they added as part of a newer software version I don't have.

Thanks
 
mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
I was considering using a brass fitting with a threaded end. Since I’m buying a used reservoir I may try the threaded fitting route and have one on the shelf just incase one of the forum members need a replacement. If it works that is.


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mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
Does anyone know what the revolution ratio is from the steering wheel to the lower steering shaft? Is it a 1:1 ratio?


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Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Yes.

The steering column connects to two intermediate shafts: The first shaft connects about where your feet go inside the cabin, the second shaft connects about 14" further down but inside the engine compertment. The second shaft connects to the steering rack. The reason there are two shafts is to make the somewhat tight angle to the steering rack due to the snub nose of the H3 design. The ratio and turning amount at the rack is the same as that of the steering wheel. I'm sure you probably knew most of that, but, well, I got carried away.

Good luck!
 
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mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
It’s all good. I’m just sitting at work right now thinking why the steering wheel isn’t square. My power steering reservoir came in today. So when I get off shift in the morning I’ll put that all back together and hopefully get new tires and an alignment. Maybe that will square it up.


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Jeepwalker

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
876
Location
WI
Like I wrote earlier on, I bet dollars to doughnuts the new steering shafts (from end to end) didn't match up 100%. Meaning, there was some 'twist' in how it was assembled.

Drive the vehicle into your work stall with the front wheels pointing straight ahead, then loosen the tie rod ends and rotate accordingly until the steering wheel is 'square' (straight ahead). Tighten the tie rod nuts just a little, drive to ensure the wheel is where you want it as you drive down the road, then do a final readjustment. Measure the front and back of the tire (use some matching part of the tread) and get it between 1/8" - 3/16" tow-in at the front of the tires. Give the tie rod jam nuts a final torque. Problem solved. Job done.

Or, send it back and get new shafts (that are welded like they should have been in the first place -- assuming your old one was welded right in the first place)

Then get out and enjoy yer new tight steering!
 
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mjferencak

mjferencak

Well-Known Member
Messages
308
Location
Elbert, CO
So I figured out why my steering wheel was offset after replacing all sections of my steering column. The lower steering shaft, the one that couples to the rack, has the telescoping shaft that can be removed and rotated to the next tooth/teeth. I was a tooth off which was causing my wheel to be cocked to the right 45 degrees.

I hated pulling up to a Jeep at a light with my windows down. It was blatantly obvious my wheel was off.


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