Snow Chains

This was mentioned in the chat bar and it is getting to be that time of year again.

Please post up your recommendations and experiences with different types of snow chains.

I have BFG KM2s in 35". They are not siped, so tire chains would help if our winter is anything like last year. Having said that, I will admit that they didn't slip on me last year at all. Great tires! :thumbs:

Anyway, does anyone have experience with the V-Bar chains? :corn:

http://www.tirechain.com/315-75R-16.htm

James,

I am pretty sure that is where I got mine. The Vbar are supposed to be very good in the ice and snow and a little heavier duty. I bought mine about 3 years ago and haven't gotten to use them yet.

I went with a HEAVY duty set from 4wheelparts, the 3 sinks an inch when I throw em in the back

I have always wanted a full set of the diamond ones -- they are used on snow plows...and boxy lady!

Just make sure to try them out before you need them, I ordered some chains from the link you posted a few years ago and they were waaaaay too big. I was lucky one of the trucks had large bolt cutters to shrink them down a bit.

This ended up in the back rack thread as things sometimes happen that way.
I can share a little bit of info. Arkansas gets more ice than snow.
I have two sets of "high speed" snow chains like State Troopers use, I bought for my first trip out west but they are for 285 tires. I used one set around here one day just to see how they work when we had refrozen snow and ice. Drove to the post office and back 5 miles with just a front set on to see if I could steer better and aim the front end the way I wanted to go or correct in a slide. Worked great to deliver skids to the PO. Thru rain, sleet or snow. My postal carrier was sitting at the PO in her new Jeep waiting for the roads to get better!
Anybody need some? These are for 285's and it looks like now I will run the 315's for awhile anyway. I have to look up what they cost. I have the one pair I ran that day and the other set I never used.
I sent back the heavier ones.



What happened was I ordered the heavier ones first to use for mud chains and maybe some ice around here on occasion.
I was told by a guy that has to put chains on and off daily to drive up to a ski resort where he works about another kind. He recommended those cross chains that have the hoop in the back. They are thinner but allow you to go up to 40 if you want and are not near as rough to drive on when you get in places without snow or ice. So I got some of those to try. The only time I would use them around here is when we have ice, or snow refrozen and more freezing rain on that. The road out of here is always covered but when a day or so passes the main roads or clear. So it makes it tough to have it both ways.
This was all frozen the next day and really hard to drive on with more freezing rain overnight.

These are the heavier ones I fitted in the shop but never used.
Those heavier ones did fit good on MT/MTZ. The outside lugs of the tire helped hold the chains in place.

Good to know Hunner! Thanks! Wanna get some springs for the H3's sometime soon!

What is this snow you talk about?:huh:

BW_Hummer H3 said:

What is this snow you talk about?:huh:

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Something you snort.... I think...

If your thinking of selling the set for 285s I may. Be interested pm me if you wanna sell!

Ok let me make sure which set it is so I can give you a fair price. I have two sets. Like I said one set never used and 1 set about 5 miles.

Here is something to consider on chains. I think the book says do not use them? Might be because they could hit the abs break lines, not sure. The ones I got with the smooth hoop on the back seemed to clear everything.
The other concern I have now is that bottom seam triangle piece in front of the rear tire. I once got a rock wedged in there with 285's. One of the reasons I was reluctant to run the 315's was that area. I may go ahead and cut that and either weld it or caulk it. I need to get my body shop guy to check that for me. Chains could very well hit that if they were a bit loose. Only one way to tell. I may try this design again.
285's 33 inch or about that.

315's 35 inch or about that.

These are the chains I ran that one day for about a 5 mile round trip to see what happened. I have posted that I tried them on the front as I was curious how being able to steer and pull would work. I have run chains on two wheel drive and they push but steering sometimes is iffy.
The only way I can tell the pair I ran is they are not as shiny as the ones I have not. I do see some slight rust on the used ones in a few places. There were not many exposed pavement sections, mostly ice and frozen snow.
http://www.tirechain.com/car_chaininstallationinstruction.htm

I’m thinking of going on a snow run, so I opened the California Transportation Department (CalTrans) FAQ on snow chains :link: (probably my first mistake).

The most relevant Q&A’s in the FAQ reads as follows.

If I have 4-wheel-drive, do I need to carry chains?

Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on 4-wheel-drive vehicles at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (for one drive axle) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.

If I have snow tires, do I need to carry chains?

Yes. Even though weather conditions may not warrant the use of chains on passenger vehicles equipped with snow tires at a particular time, to enter a chain control area, you must have a set of chains (one pair) for your vehicle in your possession. If conditions worsen or you have trouble controlling your vehicle, you must stop and install the chains.

So, in CalTrans infinite wisdom I need chains to enter a chain control area even if I have 4 wheel drive and snow tires, so I guess I better get snow chains.

I looked in the owner’s manual (which may have been my second mistake) to see what it said about snow chains.

They start off with this nearly useless cautionary statement, "If your vehicle has LT285/75R16 or P265/65R18 size tires, do not use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there is not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension, or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash. Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust, or remove the device if it is contacting your vehicle, and do not spin your vehicle’s wheels. If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires."

Followed by this, "Notice: If your vehicle has a tire size other than LT285/75R16 or P265/65R18 use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the tires of the rear axle. Do not use chains on the tires of the front axle. Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle."

In a futile effort to diminish my confusion, I called Tustin Hummer and talked to my service representative. This seemed like a reasonable approach since he makes the determination if repairs are covered under the warranty or not and I can always say you said it was OK. He said I should only use the cable type snow chains (or snow cables) and only on the rear tires. Since the front tires rub the anti-sway bars at full lock that seems like a reasonable solution. I guess I’ll get a set of cable chains.

I researched the effectiveness of snow chains and snow cables and the consensus seems to be that they are equal in snow but the chains provide better traction on ice.

I also considered the ladder type and the “z” or zigzag cable arrangement. The ladder type are supposed to be better for off road use whereas the zigzag arrangement is quieter and better on road. However, this seems to be a mute point since the only snow cables I could find that fit my tires are the ladder type.

I have started a search for snow cables but it seems most will not fit on 315/75R16 tires (what kind of idiot would use snow cables on 35” tires? Don’t answer that it was a rhetorical question). So far I have found that two or three that claim to fit.

1. pewag makes a set of snow cables stock number 2037C that fit 35” tires (i.e. 315/75R16) :link:.
2. Glacier Cable Snow Tire Chains for Heavy Trucks PW2037C (probably the same at the pewag 2037C) :link:.
3. Peerless Chain Part #0303554 :link:.

If anyone is aware of any other snow cables that will fit 315/75R16 tires I would appreciate a link.

I'm a firm believer in having a good set of snow chains if you plan on traveling in snow country, regardless if the vehicle is 2WD, FWD, AWD, 4X4, 6X6, ... you get the point. I've purchased several sets of snow chains from TireChains.com and I'm really impressed with the fit and quality of these chains. I've got a set of the low profile 3.8mm diamond chains for the front and the 4.5mm diamond chains for the rear. I just ordered a set of the v-bar heavy duty chains for the H2.
It's also worth noting that the two things that will destroy your chains and/or your truck is speed and not having proper tension on the chains. If the road conditions warrant you putting chains on a 4X4, you probably shouldn't be driving like a bat out of hell anyway. TireChains.com recommends 30MPH for all their chains. They've got a great application chart on their website:

DJinCO said:

I am sure that it is incorrect to assume that the average Colorado driver is more capable than the average California driver in snow, because I have seen too many transplants and California plates in Colorado; however here's the Colorado rules:

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The lowest point in Colorado is 3,315 feet above sea level, and the entire state of Colorado is North of Fresno CA, so the 5 million people who live in Colorado get some experience driving on snow and slick roads on a regular basis. In Southern California we have 20 million people who live where it never snows. People around here can't handle driving in the rain. Then they see a news report that it is snowing in the local mountains. The wife says, “O that looks so pretty” and they decide to drive up and see it. The worst ones are the natives. Most of the transplants have a distant memory of snow. Since California is a liberal state that thinks the government must protect people from their own stupidity, they write more restrictive and controlling laws.

If I lived in Colorado, or even in North West Iowa where I grew up, I'd be investing in a good set of mud and snow tires and I'd put then on every winter. However, around here I'd be putting then on for a snow trip and then taking them off for a desert trip (i.e. Anza Borrego in December and Big Bear in January) and I'd have a set of tires taking up space year around. Even if I had snow tires, CalTrans requires me to have chains to enter a chain controlled area so I might as well get a set of chains. My new Cooper STT tires are not rated for snow, but with chains and or aired down I think they will be good enough.

If I lived in the snow belt, I'd also have a set of chains in the back for insurance. I've experienced some very slick roads in my life and the worst was sliding backwards down a hill into oncoming traffic after stopping at a stoplight.

Good points Portager. I do have two sets of tires. I also have a vehicle that is the designated vehicle to use if snow is expected or it has snowed overnight. It's a 2002 Tahoe 4x4 with Bridgestone Blizzak's in the winter. It's my RV tow vehicle in the summer.

Last year I had Blizzak's on the H3 and it was really great. This year I went with the Goodyear Duratrac's for summer and winter because the Duratrac's are OK in some snow and don't wear as quickly on dry pavement.

I had some chain's once... I think they could be in the garage somewhere, but I think they were for the car... :giggle:

I never had problems entering snow chain control areas with no chains. But I do keep a set in an ammo case within my toolbox.

I'd like to get a set of HMMWV Pelwegs but they are hard to track down, and are pricey.

I occasionally make a winter drive from UT to OR (family is in OR). The rule there is chains or traction tires, which includes tires with the snowflake symbol. This is why my requirements for my next set of tires is the snowflake symbol. My old Jeep Cherokee had MTs - good in deep snow, sucked in hard packed snow or ice. I carried chains in the Jeep, mainly to comply with requirements but I would have used them if I needed. Craigslisted them this summer, never even mounted them. If I had to drive in CA where I thought I'd go into a chains required area, I'd go with an aggressive AT style tire like a BFG AT, General Grabber AT2, or Duratrac, then carry chains to comply with the rules and hope I was never forced to use them. Studded tires would be a good option for winter in an area that gets lots of ice like Portland OR, but that doesn't appear to be enough for the CA mommy laws.

I picked up a set of the Onorm diamond from tire chain.com for my 35's a couple years ago but have never needed them the last 2 winters up in Yosemite, mammoth, sierras, big bear. The km2's have performed great in the white stuff but I still carry them just in case.

Kurt said:

I never had problems entering snow chain control areas with no chains. But I do keep a set in an ammo case within my toolbox.

I'd like to get a set of HMMWV Pelwegs but they are hard to track down, and are pricey.

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I am sure CHP doesnt care if you have bald street tires, they will probably let you through with the badass H1.

I have the duratracs and have put off my chains but need to pick em up sooner then later. I am less then 30 min from the snow and have driven on the street in snow and done a snow run or two.

I have a pair of very heavy duty LaClede chains for the H2. I lucked out and found them at a yard sale. They were brand new in an unopened bag still. I paid $10 for them! I may never use them, but for $10, one would be stupid not to buy them! Try pricing out heavy duty chains for 37s!