• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

TAPDH3T SOA Build

4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
IMO...the Dana 44 is a better choice for the H3. I say this for several reasons...cost, weight, size, fitment, etc. You must remember the H3 is a full-time 4WD and this fact should weigh heavily on your axle decision. Whatever axle you choose...it will be active 100% of the time. Its easy to overlook this when you see guys cramming D60s under Jeeps and hard-core rock rigs. The Dana 60 is a huge hunk of iron, and you'll be lugging it around every time you drive anywhere. Its weight and parasitic loss is in a whole different class from any of the other components on the H3 chassis (a big deal for us 5-cyl guys). Its obviously stronger but, its also a huge piece of rotating steel..and you can't shut it off. Unless you are doing extremely hard-core wheeling, its over-kill for the H3. It wouldn't be such a big deal if we had a 2WD-mode.

The Dana 44 seems to "fit" the mid-size layout of the H3. It can be built-up (chro-mo shafts) for comparatively little cost and this will greatly strengthen it for 35"+ tires and some mid to extreme off-roading duty. It will never be a Dana 60 (especially a built D60)...but it is far more practical. A 73-87 GM half-ton Dana 44 fits perfectly, and it is the correct width (67") without any mods. It also shares the same wheel bolt-pattern as the H3, which is another plus. Parts are cheap and everywhere.

Two guys can load a D44 in a truck. You'll need a fork-lift for a D60. Its that big of a difference.
 
Last edited:
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
4speedfunk said:
IMO...the Dana 44 is a better choice for the H3. I say this for several reasons...cost, weight, size, fitment, etc. You must remember the H3 is a full-time 4WD and this fact should weigh heavily on your axle decision. Whatever axle you choose...it will be active 100% of the time. Its easy to overlook this when you see guys cramming D60s under Jeeps and hard-core rock rigs. The Dana 60 is a huge hunk of iron, and you'll be lugging it around every time you drive anywhere. Its weight and parasitic loss is in a whole different class from any of the other components on the H3 chassis (a big deal for us 5-cyl guys). Its obviously stronger but, its also a huge piece of rotating steel..and you can't shut it off. Unless you are doing extremely hard-core wheeling, its over-kill for the H3. It wouldn't be such a big deal if we had a 2WD-mode.

The Dana 44 seems to "fit" the mid-size layout of the H3. It can be built-up (chro-mo shafts) for comparatively little cost and this will greatly strengthen it for 35"+ tires and some mid to extreme off-roading duty. It will never be a Dana 60 (especially a built D60)...but it is far more practical. A 73-87 GM half-ton Dana 44 fits perfectly, and it is the correct width (67") without any mods. It also shares the same wheel bolt-pattern as the H3, which is another plus. Parts are cheap and everywhere.

Two guys can load a D44 in a truck. You'll need a fork-lift for a D60. Its that big of a difference.
Click to expand...

Excellent information !!! I will need hubs and all correct?
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Which ever way you go...you'll have to get custom to retain ABS and Traction Control. This is pretty minor compared to torching the entire IFS off.
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
y7azazu3.jpg

Does this look level ???
 
RamRod

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Looks level, but the wheel well gap in the back looks to be more, have the measurements from hub to bottom of fender on the front & rear


Sent from handheld smoke signal device
 
Last edited:
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
It looks like the torsion bars are cranked up from upper control arm angle I see in the pic and possibly unlevel ground. What's the hub to fender
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
I'm working on a straight axel as I type.. I'm trying to get a labor quote from my offroad shop.. But for now I have cranked the TBars up.. I still have a gap between the metal stop but it's not much.. My option is to either lower the back end, cut the metal stop and drop it an inch to give more space, or go straight axel.. I like the height so straight axel it is..
 
06 H3

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
30in hub to fender is like torsion bar cranking a stock rig to 26. The CVs may not last long but doing a SAS should get rid of that problem
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
I'm poor.. I waiting on a quote for labor so I can see what I can and can't accomplish.. I know my front locker and diff will sell here but I don't know for how much!!!
 
954paulo

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Give me the go ahead and I can make your wallet a bit fatter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
TAPDH3T

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Neg.. It was a temp fix because I ran out of time to do my welding!!! I pulled them off and welded my shock mounts to the axel...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top