Steering stabilizer

[Hummerboy]

I came across this and wondered if this is real

 

[Best4x4]

For a SAS H3 maybe, but we have a rack n pinion setup so that won't work.

 

[Cajun_Tiger_Hummer]

It might be a misprint for a H2 steering stabilizer

 

[Hummerboy]

Other than upping to a 16mm steering rack what can help my steering since this isn't an option

 

[Best4x4]

The $$$ 3/4 Tie Rods, Steering Brace. What issues are u having??

 

[amrg]

You can instal steering stabilizers on an H3, Ive seen it done on another forum, but he used different tie rods (bullet-proof)

 

[Hummerboy]

At about 45mph the steering wheel has a good amount of play in it,it could be "death wobble" but I don't exactly know what that term means. I am running stock 06 steering rack with 14mm tie rods I believe and wondered what could be done to help it. Mainly for off-road to be able to control the steering wheel the way it is now turning off road and hit a bump it almost takes the steering wheel out of my hand. I want the steering wheel as tight as possible especially for situations when I'm crawling in 4lo as well as on road.

 

[amrg]

Check your control arm bushings, the play in ur steering seems to be caused by this. But in general, everyrhing upfront plays a part in the whole feel, worn ball joints, loose steering rack are also something to take a look at before you go the stabilizer route...
Just had my whole front suspension worked on, truck feels extremely tight, like brand new, except that with the steering rack kit its even better!

 

[Hummerboy]

I defiantly agree I have some front end issues. The axle seals leaking and I get a knock in the steering wheel when turning also when going doing a ditch crossing and angle the wheel I get a bad clunking noise any idea what this could be? With 37s is it wearing things faster or is the front end just weak I need to beef it up just don't know where to get cv joints tie rods etc

 

[Hunner]

First if you are running 37's your wear has been greatly increased and the feedback to the steering wheel must be very forceful.

There is no 16mm steering rack. There are 16mm tie rods.

That shot looks like stock tie rods (not Bullet Proof Steering tie rods) with some strange steering shocks mounted from the frame over to the knuckles.
At least that's what it looks like best I can tell from that picture.

This is a tie rod from the first set of Bullet Proof Steering tie rods compared to OEM.






This was my fix for the loose steering rack.


You need to check to see if the passenger side of the rack is secure. If not the rack is moving using up some of your steering wheel travel rather than turning the wheels.

There are NOW a couple of other methods for securing this.

My Bullet Proof tie rods and rack mount now have over 100,000 miles and still tight.

 

[Hayden]

im getting a clunking noise from my sway bar links. might not be the same case though

not to hijack the thread, but how hard is it to replace these things anyone?

 

[Hunner]

They are probably too short after you cranked up enough to run the 37's.
With my longer travel I used longer links.

If your pass side rack mount looks like this, you got a problem.

Read thru some of this and get under there and check things out.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...r-Edition-H3-Alpha&p=6962&viewfull=1#post6962

Let's see a picture of your rig with 37's.

 

[Panzer07]

First if you are running 37's your wear has been greatly increased and the feedback to the steering wheel must be very forceful.

There is no 16mm steering rack. There are 16mm tie rods.

That shot looks like stock tie rods (not Bullet Proof Steering tie rods) with some strange steering shocks mounted from the frame over to the knuckles.
At least that's what it looks like best I can tell from that picture.

This is a tie rod from the first set of Bullet Proof Steering tie rods compared to OEM.






This was my fix for the loose steering rack.


You need to check to see if the passenger side of the rack is secure. If not the rack is moving using up some of your steering wheel travel rather than turning the wheels.

There are NOW a couple of other methods for securing this.

My Bullet Proof tie rods and rack mount now have over 100,000 miles and still tight.

Those bulletproof tie rods look nice if it wasn't for the price tag I would gotten by now.


Torres

 

[Hunner]

Research and development payback was my ticket to getting what I wanted made.

 

[Hummerboy]

The h2 pic is a joke.. I hadn't seen a 2 since I got it lifted and wanted to see how it sat next to them

 

[Panzer07]

Is your truck an alpha or the i5 I'm sure u must have already mentioned that before, but I missed it.


Torres

 

[Hummerboy]

The i5

 

[Panzer07]

The i5

How do those 37's feel, do you have a tune ?


Torres

 

[Hummerboy]

Completely stock no air filter or anything. It's pretty slow, honestly I get passed a lot and never drive on the interstate not a huge deal to me that I don't have a good 0-60. I try to keep my rpms under 2,000 as I don't like crazy acceleration.to me it's unneeded wear and tear 37s were an easy choice for me because it wasn't a huge price difference between 4 35s and 4 37s I mean what's $1500 to $1600 not much I mean I wanted to do it once its easier to go down then to go up and I didn't want that regret of man I should have went 37s now I have to come up with 1600 more not $100 more or the minimal difference it was. It's a constant project so things like cv's and tie rods would be replaced and upgraded as time went. Overall I think if you have the option go with 37s you won't regret it

 

[amrg]

Completely stock no air filter or anything. It's pretty slow, honestly I get passed a lot and never drive on the interstate not a huge deal to me that I don't have a good 0-60. I try to keep my rpms under 2,000 as I don't like crazy acceleration.to me it's unneeded wear and tear 37s were an easy choice for me because it wasn't a huge price difference between 4 35s and 4 37s I mean what's $1500 to $1600 not much I mean I wanted to do it once its easier to go down then to go up and I didn't want that regret of man I should have went 37s now I have to come up with 1600 more not $100 more or the minimal difference it was. It's a constant project so things like cv's and tie rods would be replaced and upgraded as time went. Overall I think if you have the option go with 37s you won't regret it

There are an upgrade for the tie rods for the H3, so are the CVs. The control arms not really though.

 

[Panzer07]

It sounds like my type of driving I hardly let my rpm go to 3k that's only in highway with little hills...and in a way I wish I had gotten 37 but I just wasn't sure I could make them fit without having a lot of rub, specially when wheeling, but now once I install my lift my next set should be 37/8's and lets see what happens only one way to find out.


Torres

 

[Hummerboy]

Link to either? I've seen the RCV but I think they were $325 each and bullet proof is what $900 for the set.. Has anyone made a custom rack from an h1 or heavy duty truck. I mean for $1500 someone would probably be willing to fab something. I want something permanent but I could buy 10 tie rods for the price of 2 bullet proof. I'd be seriously interested in a beefed up IFS that works with a rancho but specifically the steering

 

[Hummerboy]

I agree Panzer most guys on here wheel very differently than I do. Where I'm at it's 99% mud and no rocks I wish there were more rocks like I see the so cal guys doing because to me that's off-roading there is skill involved in navigating rocks picking the right lines etc. there's no skill in mashing the gas in the direction of mud but it's what we have so I built accordingly

 

[Panzer07]

Yeah that rock crawling the guys over here it is epic...my 35's have perform great to this point but once my rancho goes on I feel like I would want bigger rubber so I can have more clearance and what not...and I agree with Ya 900 for those bullet proof things is out of control. Specially since the end bolt that screws into the rack it is the same size as the one tie rods...I remember talking about the bullet proof tie rods while on the trail, and they told me it was easier to change a tie rod than a broken steering rack. Anyways I think Around this time, some time next year I'd be up for tires maybe. And might be the first one running 37/8's in the stock set up with a rancho lift and a steering rack clamp. And test to see how long that hold out in the trails. However I'm more concern the differential breaking before a tie rod or a steering rack lol. Luckily I have a complete set of all front components now to replace them all if it came to that.


Torres

 

[amrg]

Link to either? I've seen the RCV but I think they were $325 each and bullet proof is what $900 for the set.. Has anyone made a custom rack from an h1 or heavy duty truck. I mean for $1500 someone would probably be willing to fab something. I want something permanent but I could buy 10 tie rods for the price of 2 bullet proof. I'd be seriously interested in a beefed up IFS that works with a rancho but specifically the steering

Outfitter designs build a set of HD tie rods (1 inch thick). They are cheaper too