Sorry MaxPF...I was trying to "dumb down" the jargon for people following this build. This type of work gets a bit confusing if you're not familiar with steering stuff. So...here's the REAL description of what I'm doing (sorry if I lose some of you):
Yes, I'm using DREs on the drag-link. Yes, the steering will be 1-ton TREs at the knuckles (RH & LH threaded). The passenger-side TRE will be the one with the tapered hole in it for the drag link connection. I'm only using this arrangement to keep the steering linkage as compact as possible. I would rather use a 2-hole arm on the passenger-side knuckle, and run a full-length drag-link but, this requires more space between the drag-link and the tie-rod...and I just don't have it. Remember...I'm using 1.5" DOM for all this stuff and the track-bar, drag-link, and tie-rod are all very big members, jockying for position under there. This "space problem" is compounded by the pitman arm length, and the arc that it travels from lock-to-lock. I cannot move the axle rearward. I cannot move the steering box any further forward. I cannot have the drag-link contacting the tie-rod. So my pitman arm selection is very critical, and I need a short one. Using a center-link connection is not my first choice...but it requires less "front-to-rear" space than the full-length knuckle arm connection.
In hindsight...stock GM knuckles (with lower tie-rod mounts) would work much better. I would still use a flat-top, and high-steer arm on the passenger-side...but only for the drag-link. This would allow me to "stack" the drag-link over the tie rod without worrying about them hitting each other. BUT...Since I already have knuckles installed, and the previous owner has cut the stock TR mounts off...I'm forced to run high-steer on both the drag-link and tie-rod. This means they share the same plane (front-to-rear), and thats sort of the root of my problem. I have considered flipping the tie-rod so it mounts to the bottom of the high-steer arms and keep the drag-link on top...but, that would require heims, and some goofy hardware which I really don't want.
I have numerous Saginaw pitmans laying around...in all sorts of drops and such but, they won't fit the Ford splines on the sector shaft. So, I'm faced with switching to a Ford pitman arm to get the correct splines. I know nuthin about Ford steering but, I do know that I need ‹A FORD PITMAN ARM...5" TO 5.5" LONG...WITH 0" TO 1-1/2" OF DROP...AND ENOUGH MEAT ON AROUND THE DL HOLE TO HOG-OUT FOR A 1-TON.‹ OR one like you suggested, that is already reamed for a GM 1-ton. The Ford EB box fits the H3 like a glove. The H3's steering shaft is in perfect alignment, and it damn near slips onto the stock Ford input! This is the box to use...no question. Because I'm running high-steer, with relatively low lift...I need a nearly flat drop on the pitman. The EB box is very tall and the sector shaft hangs down to an almost perfect height to align with my steering. This is so much better than my first attempt using a CJ Saginaw box...but I still need to find the right pitman arm. Rumor has it a 77 Ford Econoline Van has a similar arm...doing research on that now.
Reaming is not a problem, (my arms are un-drilled at this time). I got parts from PM, WFO, Barnes, Ruff-stuff, AtoZ, blah blah blah...pretty much everybody. Thanks for your input Max, I'm open to any suggestions.
