IFS diff upgrade?....

[4speedfunk]

Okay. I know its been done to death. But, I stumbled across this craigslist ad and zoomed in to have a look.

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/d/dodge-chrysler-dynatrac-dana/6558732276.html

Clearly this guy is on meth, so lets ignore the $5000 price tag. Instead...focus on the photos. It looks like a really good candidate for an IFS upgrade. Notice it has mounting bosses cast into the cover and the snout...so it would be relatively easy to make some brackets to hold it in place. It also has stub shafts with bolt-in CV flanges which appear to be nice & compact. So given this info, perhaps a Charger/C-300/Challenger would be a good donor. I'm thinking if this unit is designed as a "bolt-in" replacement, then the stock diff in these cars would have the same attachment points. I know these cars are everywhere and surely these diffs would be cheap (like under $500). I have no idea what the stock diff is...probably a sterling or AMM. Regardless, I'm just looking at the attachment points and relative size. Seems do-able.

 

[Mb30sdl]

He is not delusional, that diff is ~8k retail. It’s Dynatrack bolt on upgrade for rear IFS dodge.


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[atvspeed4]

The diff has been figured out 99% the issue is shafts... after running the one we made for our Red 2006 for a couple years we broke the yukon "alloy" 30 spline shaft on our Moab trip in March. We are looking into custom 4340 shafts at this point $$$$$. Thats the only piece left and ready to start making them.

 

[06 H3]

I could be a billionaire and would never pay the prices dynatrac expects...

I saw a post on social media that Mel Wade broke both his Prorock 80 and XD60 at Baja. Then the post was removed hours later.

 

[Mb30sdl]

I hear u I wouldn’t pay 50k for front bulletproof IFS too.

Dynatrack axels/hubs are incredibly hard to break (but nothing is impossible)

I had them on most of my rigs and ones I bought for ~10 years and no problems at all with 40” tires


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[Mb30sdl]

About Dynatrack
When u build hi quality product u have to rase prices to get rid of riffraff that will be waisting your time later.
Just like any hi end shop u pay extra to receive clean hi quality work (at least that is expectation)

Usually if 2 left handed tech works on your stuff u will pay twice to fix it later
And there was s a lot of these around where I live.

PS. Every time I called Dynatrack with my stupid questions they were answered with in couple of minutes. So customer service is 5star in my book.

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[RamRod]

4speed brings up a good point about a possible IFS donor diff.... my question would be if you would have to center mount this diff and run equal length half shafts? Or mount in the stock location with odd sized half shafts.


I am interested in what ATVspeed has up his sleeve as I have enough projects on the go at the moment and do t have time for another.... yet

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[4speedfunk]

Center mount?...oh hell no. That would be a complete re-engineer of the front suspension. I was simply suggesting a cheap and available diff upgrade to leave all of the other stock IFS pieces in place. Of course you would need custom half-shafts, and some bracketry to bolt it up. It would be really sweet to have some sort of extension on the drivers-side, so you could run the same length half-shafts for RH and LH sides. However that might be getting too complex, so I guess the long-shaft, short-shaft arrangement would be the quick & easy route. I think the Corvette D44 and the H1 AMC-20 are also good candidate diffs. They are cheap, available, and already have seals and outputs for half-shafts, and also mounting bosses cast into them. Physical size is another issue but, all of these diffs seem to be fairly compact.

For the record...I would never attempt a "monster" IFS, (that would ever justify a Dynatrac diff). I was thinking just something a bit stronger than stock, and re-gear-able. At some point the IFS becomes "not cost effective" to mess with. So if you cannot get a diff upgrade done for less than say $3500...then it makes more sense to chop it all off and go solid. Especially if you want to do some serious, hard-core stuff. All the same...I think there is a market for a streetable, reliable, IFS diff upgrade if it can be done without snowballing into a major project. Sounds like ATV is on it, and has probably gone down these same paths. Its a problem that many of us have been kicking around for ten years now, and my hats off to anyone that can pull it off.

 

[atvspeed4]

I wish someone made 4340 axle blanks. The Yukon blanks just aren't strong enough

 

[5gn-h3t]

Axle blank for what exactly? For the stock CV’s?

 

[atvspeed4]

Axle blank for what exactly? For the stock CV’s?

Flanged stub shafts that go into the diff. We are running k1500 shafts currently that bolt to the stub shafts. We twisted off a yukon 30 spline stub shaft in moab

 

[RamRod]

I wish someone made 4340 axle blanks. The Yukon blanks just aren't strong enough

Have you reached out to RCV? they have a custom 4340 set for the Toyota guys!

 

[atvspeed4]

Have you reached out to RCV? they have a custom 4340 set for the Toyota guys!

They can do it but the price shifts the diff into something no one will buy.

 

[06 H3]

I wish someone made 4340 axle blanks. The Yukon blanks just aren't strong enough

I know it adds cost to you for a new locker but it shouldn’t for an end user but you can get 35 spline lockers for the D44 then use a 35 spline stub?

 

[atvspeed4]

I know it adds cost to you for a new locker but it shouldn’t for an end user but you can get 35 spline lockers for the D44 then use a 35 spline stub?

We could for an ox or arb but alot of people have requested elocker for seamless integration with factory harness or run a truetrac which both of those are only 30 spline. Yukon also did not have a good blank that would have the right flange size, close enough diameter bearing race that could be machined without turning below heat treat and shaft diameter for 35 spline.

 

[RamRod]

I know it adds cost to you for a new locker but it shouldn’t for an end user but you can get 35 spline lockers for the D44 then use a 35 spline stub?

Personally I would rather go with an ARB locker & 35 spline....but that's just me


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