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Both 34 (34/78) and 35 series batteries will fit in the H3. I chose 34/78 series, but the install process is basically the same.
The starting point is a bit of the chicken or the egg. Where do you start, battery or tray? I'll start with the batteries.
Sneek peek at what you will need:
Any two batteries will work, but it is best if they are the same type, brand and close build dates. Optima is a standard for aftermarket, so I chose them. No matter which manufacture you pick, the steps will be the same. There are three different types of Optima batteries:
RedTop:
Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.
Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics
YellowTop:
Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.
Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles
BlueTop:
The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty.
The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.
Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery)
Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting
Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts.
If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery.
Reason for the size difference between the 34 and the 35 is that the 34 has more cranking amps.
YellowTop Specs
26
OPTIMA YELLOWTOP DUAL PURPOSE (STARTING & DEEP CYCLE) BATTERIES
MODEL NUMBER D34/78 D75/25 D34 D35 D51 & D51R D27F DS46B24R
PERFORMANCE
Voltage 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v
Cold Cranking Amps @ 0F
750 620 750 620 450 830 450
Cranking Amps @ 32F
870 770 870 770 575 1025 575
Reserve Capacity 120 100 120 100 66 140 66
Capacity (C/20 Rate)
55 48 55 48 38 66 38
Internal Resistance (ohms)
0.0028 0.003 0.0028 0.003 0.0046 0.0025 .0046
PHYSICAL SPECS
Length 10" 9 5/16" 10" 9 5/16" 9 5/16" 12 3/16" 9 5/16
Width 6 7/8" 6 13/16" 6 7/8" 6 13/16" 5 1/16" 6 13/16" 5 1/16
Height 7 13/16" 7 5/8" 7 13/16" 7 5/8" 8 15/16" 8 3/4" 8 15/16
Minimum Weight (lbs)
43.5 37.8 42.9 36.4 26 53.2
Type Post/Terminal
Dual SAE & GM Dual SAE & GM SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post
BCI Group 34/78 75/25 34 35 51 & 51R 27F S46B24R
Optima yellow top 34/78 batteries:
Since I chose Optima 34/78 batteries, these tray's are designed for Optmia 34/78 series batteries (red, yellow or blue). It is believed that they will fit 34 series as well. If not, they can be trimmed to fit the 34's if an issue occurs.
Plasmathought = 13.75 x 9.75 x 7.75. Made from 16 gauge steel.
Bluetourch = 16 x 10.25 x 7 made from 1/8 steel
Ballistic = 14.4 (16.902 with top bolt lips) x 11.1 x 7 made from 1/8 steel
Ruff stuff = 15 x 10 1/8 x 7 made from 12 gauge steel
ArTech = 15 x 10 x 8 made with 10 gauge steel
While I try to support our sponsors and friends of our site, I am also aware that not all of our members have endless funds. There are many great dual battery trays out there, including the powder coated H3 topped ArTech version. As of this time, the ArTech costs $137.99 +S&H, is a direct bolt in, comes with hardware and no additional work or prep is needed.
For the members that are on a tight budget, I found a low cost option. I found a one man shop that is making single trays that can be bolted together. http://www.plasmathought.com I was able to pick a set up for $37.79 +S&H from him on ebay. It is a simple set up where he sells you two single battery trays that bolt back to back to form a single dual tray.
Here's what you get:
I would advise if you get one to either tack weld the bottoms together or bolt them where they won't rub the casing sides. While trying to mount them it is almost impossible to keep the bottoms together.
Bolts at the top, nothing at the bottom:
They just want to seat themselves as single trays, leaving a small gap at the bottom. This will cause alignment issues at the top if you leave them this way. As part of the prep process, I would use weld through primer on them, bolt them together at the top, then just put a tack on each side at the bottom. Then bed line them. If you tack them at the bottom, the install will go much faster. They come unfinished and without the 1/4 20 hardware.
I etch primed and bed lined them:
With advise from other members, I modified the driver side tray. After studying the pictures of other members installs it was clear that the lid mounting point on the drivers side was hard to get to. I flattened the tab on the body of the tray and bent the lip of the lid upward. It will make it much easier to tighten the lid down and get the battery in and out.
Before:
After:
Side view:
Installed:
After I was done (it was a struggle to get the bolts in from behind, but a breeze to tighten them), I thought about using a standard auto type slip nut and running the bolt in from the front. I'm talking about the type that have the nut on a spring clip that slides over a piece of metal and holds itself in place. No doubt some type of locked in place threads after bending the tab would have made the install easier.
Stock 2006 battery:
Cover and cables removed:
Battery removed:
Bottom tray removed:
Spot welds drilled out, post cut off, bare metal painted in prep of install:
The starting point is a bit of the chicken or the egg. Where do you start, battery or tray? I'll start with the batteries.
Sneek peek at what you will need:
Any two batteries will work, but it is best if they are the same type, brand and close build dates. Optima is a standard for aftermarket, so I chose them. No matter which manufacture you pick, the steps will be the same. There are three different types of Optima batteries:
RedTop:
Use this for normal engine starting where an alternator immediately monitors the state of charge and provides energy to the battery whenever it is needed. This would describe most stock vehicles.
Automotive and RV under-hood starting
Heavy equipment where starting is the primary function
Diesel powered vehicles with no aftermarket electronics
YellowTop:
Use this when electrical loads are higher than average, or when the discharge cycle is more than typical engine starting, such as vehicles without alternators. This also includes vehicles with significant electrical loads that may exceed the average alternator output (for example aftermarket audio system, GPS, chargers, winch, snowplow, inverters, drag cars). This can also include vehicles that have a lot of electronics from the factory, such as a minivan with power sliding doors and a DVD player, especially if the DVD player is used when the engine isn’t running.
Racing vehicles without a charging system (alternator or generator)
Dedicated drag racing vehicles
Diesel powered vehicles with aftermarket electronics
Car audio/video applications exceeding 250 watts over the OE system
Vehicles or heavy equipment with inverters, hydraulics, winches or other accessories
Electric vehicles
BlueTop:
The BlueTop starting battery (dark gray case) is to be used when a dedicated starting battery is required and it should never be used for cycling duty.
The dual purpose BlueTop (light gray case) can be used for both starting and deep cycling; it is a true deep cycle battery with extremely high cranking power.
Trolling motors, marine applications with heavy electrical accessories and RVs should use a dual purpose BlueTop (which is both a starting and deep cycle battery)
Use a BlueTop starting battery for marine applications and RVs when the battery’s only function is engine starting
Note: The difference between BlueTop and YellowTop deep cycle batteries is that BlueTop batteries have both automotive (SAE) posts and threaded posts, while YellowTops (other than D31T) only have SAE posts.
If you ever get confused on the color tops just remember: if it has a dark gray case then it is a starting battery; if it has a light gray case then it is a deep cycle (dual purpose) battery.
Reason for the size difference between the 34 and the 35 is that the 34 has more cranking amps.
YellowTop Specs
26
OPTIMA YELLOWTOP DUAL PURPOSE (STARTING & DEEP CYCLE) BATTERIES
MODEL NUMBER D34/78 D75/25 D34 D35 D51 & D51R D27F DS46B24R
PERFORMANCE
Voltage 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v 12v
Cold Cranking Amps @ 0F
750 620 750 620 450 830 450
Cranking Amps @ 32F
870 770 870 770 575 1025 575
Reserve Capacity 120 100 120 100 66 140 66
Capacity (C/20 Rate)
55 48 55 48 38 66 38
Internal Resistance (ohms)
0.0028 0.003 0.0028 0.003 0.0046 0.0025 .0046
PHYSICAL SPECS
Length 10" 9 5/16" 10" 9 5/16" 9 5/16" 12 3/16" 9 5/16
Width 6 7/8" 6 13/16" 6 7/8" 6 13/16" 5 1/16" 6 13/16" 5 1/16
Height 7 13/16" 7 5/8" 7 13/16" 7 5/8" 8 15/16" 8 3/4" 8 15/16
Minimum Weight (lbs)
43.5 37.8 42.9 36.4 26 53.2
Type Post/Terminal
Dual SAE & GM Dual SAE & GM SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post SAE Post
BCI Group 34/78 75/25 34 35 51 & 51R 27F S46B24R
Optima yellow top 34/78 batteries:
Since I chose Optima 34/78 batteries, these tray's are designed for Optmia 34/78 series batteries (red, yellow or blue). It is believed that they will fit 34 series as well. If not, they can be trimmed to fit the 34's if an issue occurs.
Plasmathought = 13.75 x 9.75 x 7.75. Made from 16 gauge steel.
Bluetourch = 16 x 10.25 x 7 made from 1/8 steel
Ballistic = 14.4 (16.902 with top bolt lips) x 11.1 x 7 made from 1/8 steel
Ruff stuff = 15 x 10 1/8 x 7 made from 12 gauge steel
ArTech = 15 x 10 x 8 made with 10 gauge steel
While I try to support our sponsors and friends of our site, I am also aware that not all of our members have endless funds. There are many great dual battery trays out there, including the powder coated H3 topped ArTech version. As of this time, the ArTech costs $137.99 +S&H, is a direct bolt in, comes with hardware and no additional work or prep is needed.
For the members that are on a tight budget, I found a low cost option. I found a one man shop that is making single trays that can be bolted together. http://www.plasmathought.com I was able to pick a set up for $37.79 +S&H from him on ebay. It is a simple set up where he sells you two single battery trays that bolt back to back to form a single dual tray.
Here's what you get:
I would advise if you get one to either tack weld the bottoms together or bolt them where they won't rub the casing sides. While trying to mount them it is almost impossible to keep the bottoms together.
Bolts at the top, nothing at the bottom:
They just want to seat themselves as single trays, leaving a small gap at the bottom. This will cause alignment issues at the top if you leave them this way. As part of the prep process, I would use weld through primer on them, bolt them together at the top, then just put a tack on each side at the bottom. Then bed line them. If you tack them at the bottom, the install will go much faster. They come unfinished and without the 1/4 20 hardware.
I etch primed and bed lined them:
With advise from other members, I modified the driver side tray. After studying the pictures of other members installs it was clear that the lid mounting point on the drivers side was hard to get to. I flattened the tab on the body of the tray and bent the lip of the lid upward. It will make it much easier to tighten the lid down and get the battery in and out.
Before:
After:
Side view:
Installed:
After I was done (it was a struggle to get the bolts in from behind, but a breeze to tighten them), I thought about using a standard auto type slip nut and running the bolt in from the front. I'm talking about the type that have the nut on a spring clip that slides over a piece of metal and holds itself in place. No doubt some type of locked in place threads after bending the tab would have made the install easier.
Stock 2006 battery:
Cover and cables removed:
Battery removed:
Bottom tray removed:
Spot welds drilled out, post cut off, bare metal painted in prep of install: