Thanks. Thats exactly the kind of info I was looking for.
The drums on this thing work okay but, sometimes when it sits overnight in the rain...the first time I apply the breaks, they immediately lock. This is usually at the end of my driveway, and it will actually drag the rear tires. I have no seal leaks, I've had them apart many times, and tried different shoes and adjustments and such...with no improvement. I think a thin coat of rust forms in high-moisture weather, and cause the shoes to instantly stick as soon as you apply any pedal at all. After that first stop...they work fine. Its like the first stop cleans all the gunk off the drums, and they are okay after that. Weird. It only happens when its wet outside, and only if the truck has been sitting a long time. I tried to find a disc brake kit but, the only offerings I found were for the FF version, which is completely different. My dad had an 8.1L Burban (2002, I think) and it had a disc-brake, 4.10 axle in it. Sounds like that may be a different critter from what you are using. There was also a 4-wheel steering version available this year but, my dad did not have that on his. Perches and shock mounts are not an issue (plasma & welder).
The gov-lock is sticking for sure. This usually occurs after I get off the highway (a long time in a straight line), and make a sharp turn. I can feel it shuddering. I've added a bunch of limited-slip additive to it but, it still does it. I'm sure the axle is in good shape, and I have no doubts the R&P and the bearings are all okay....but, given these two other problems, it makes sense to me to upgrade to a more modern disc-brake axle. Plus...it seems there are millions of them for cheap. Rear 14bolts go for $100 to $500 around here...never any more.
The front axle swap is way down the road. My front suspension is very tired at 170K miles, and I'm thinking it would be much better to do a SAS than replace all the half-shafts, and rebuild the stock front system. The Ford front axle seems to be the choice around here...but, sounds like I need to do some research on that. I want to keep my DS drop and stock T-case if possible. Actually...I would prefer to have a CAD on whatever axle I end up with. Maybe somehow splice it into the existing CAD circuit on the IFS? Manual hubs would be fine too, but the truck has "auto-trac" and I would need a CAD to keep it functional. Frankly...I've never used the auto-trac but, I just like to keep things working like factory.