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MaxPF installed an Eaton locker into my truck yesterday and we took the opportunity to capture some of the basic elements of the install
Eaton selectable locker (source: his former 10 bolt front locker)
2 - Timken bearings LM603012 wheeling bearings
2 - Timken races 603049
2 - AC Delco 291-315 rear axle seals
3 quarts - Red Line 75W-90 full synthetic gear oil
Naturally the first step was to remove the diff cover (and Purple Cranium, in my case) and drain the oil into a pan. The oil and casing were inspected for metal pieces (none) and shavings (nominal) so after 98,000 miles the rear diff was still holding up well.
Here's the stock, unlocked setup
The backlash was measured and it was determined I was at .016", a bit high but not worrisome due to the miles. That could just be wear and tear on the bearings and races
After the backlash was measured the carrier was removed from the housing. To remove the carrier we had to pull the axles. The axles are held on by C-clips and they did not want to easily come out. The C-clips were made accessible by using a pry bar inside the diff housing to pull the axle and clip inward, allowing the clip to be removed and the axles to be pulled out. Here is the original carrier on the bench with the Eaton carrier right next to it, waiting for its home
These bolts are machined the opposite of standard bolts, meaning "righty-loosey", "lefty-tightie". They are being removed here with an impact wrench
The ring gear is then removed from the carrier with the assistance of the plastic hammer.
The ring gear is inspected for damage or excessive wear; neither is present
The empty diff housing
The ring gear is put onto the Eaton carrier with assembly lube on each bolt. The bolts are torqued to 90 ft/lbs. We put a long pipe through the carrier to hold it in place while the bolts were torqued.
The carrier was reinserted into the diff housing with the original shims and spacers and measured for backlash. The backlash actually came out at 0.0", below the spec for new gears (according to an older GM 8.6" manual) of .004 to .009. We purchased a new shim pack from the dealer, with two new spacers ($100 and $13 respectively!) and reinstalled the carrier. The new backlash came out at .012 and we were happy with that final figure.
Once we had a good setup it was time to drill a 1/2" hole into the diff cover for the Eaton locker. The hole will be sealed with the OEM gasket.
The new gears were lubed and the carrier was reassembled
The internals and the locking mechanism were installed into the carrier. Note the piece with the six oval grooves. That is the part that the locking pins insert into. A new locker has very square edged pins and receiving holes. An abused or worn locker has rounded pins and holes (there is a rounded pin in this picture at the top of the wrenches)
The bolts were torqued to 60 ft/lbs
New axle seals were installed for good measure
The axles were reinstalled, c-clips inserted and the diff cover was put back on after it was cleaned and the outside was repainted. The gasket is reusable and it was reused after cleaning. Oil was put in until it began overflowing, approx. 2.5 qts. You can see the wiring at the top of the diff.
I put a switch into one of the blanks in the lower part of the dash, ahead of the shifter, and wired it through a relay under the hood. The ground for the locker is the same ground used by another item (fuel management?) about 2' behind the rear axle. The line for the power ran from the firewall, under the truck along the driver's side, over the fuel tank and is secured wherever possible. It is also in a wire loom for protection.
I'm in the process of redoing the accessory wiring under the hood and the first step was setting up this Blue Sea Systems fuseblock (thanks for the recommendation, Hunner). It has a common ground and power point with space for six accessories, each with their own fuse.
We did a thorough testing of the locker - turned it on, tried to turn on asphalt and the rear tires chirped. Success!
Eaton selectable locker (source: his former 10 bolt front locker)
2 - Timken bearings LM603012 wheeling bearings
2 - Timken races 603049
2 - AC Delco 291-315 rear axle seals
3 quarts - Red Line 75W-90 full synthetic gear oil
Naturally the first step was to remove the diff cover (and Purple Cranium, in my case) and drain the oil into a pan. The oil and casing were inspected for metal pieces (none) and shavings (nominal) so after 98,000 miles the rear diff was still holding up well.
Here's the stock, unlocked setup
The backlash was measured and it was determined I was at .016", a bit high but not worrisome due to the miles. That could just be wear and tear on the bearings and races
After the backlash was measured the carrier was removed from the housing. To remove the carrier we had to pull the axles. The axles are held on by C-clips and they did not want to easily come out. The C-clips were made accessible by using a pry bar inside the diff housing to pull the axle and clip inward, allowing the clip to be removed and the axles to be pulled out. Here is the original carrier on the bench with the Eaton carrier right next to it, waiting for its home
These bolts are machined the opposite of standard bolts, meaning "righty-loosey", "lefty-tightie". They are being removed here with an impact wrench
The ring gear is then removed from the carrier with the assistance of the plastic hammer.
The ring gear is inspected for damage or excessive wear; neither is present
The empty diff housing
The ring gear is put onto the Eaton carrier with assembly lube on each bolt. The bolts are torqued to 90 ft/lbs. We put a long pipe through the carrier to hold it in place while the bolts were torqued.
The carrier was reinserted into the diff housing with the original shims and spacers and measured for backlash. The backlash actually came out at 0.0", below the spec for new gears (according to an older GM 8.6" manual) of .004 to .009. We purchased a new shim pack from the dealer, with two new spacers ($100 and $13 respectively!) and reinstalled the carrier. The new backlash came out at .012 and we were happy with that final figure.
Once we had a good setup it was time to drill a 1/2" hole into the diff cover for the Eaton locker. The hole will be sealed with the OEM gasket.
The new gears were lubed and the carrier was reassembled
The internals and the locking mechanism were installed into the carrier. Note the piece with the six oval grooves. That is the part that the locking pins insert into. A new locker has very square edged pins and receiving holes. An abused or worn locker has rounded pins and holes (there is a rounded pin in this picture at the top of the wrenches)
The bolts were torqued to 60 ft/lbs
New axle seals were installed for good measure
The axles were reinstalled, c-clips inserted and the diff cover was put back on after it was cleaned and the outside was repainted. The gasket is reusable and it was reused after cleaning. Oil was put in until it began overflowing, approx. 2.5 qts. You can see the wiring at the top of the diff.
I put a switch into one of the blanks in the lower part of the dash, ahead of the shifter, and wired it through a relay under the hood. The ground for the locker is the same ground used by another item (fuel management?) about 2' behind the rear axle. The line for the power ran from the firewall, under the truck along the driver's side, over the fuel tank and is secured wherever possible. It is also in a wire loom for protection.
I'm in the process of redoing the accessory wiring under the hood and the first step was setting up this Blue Sea Systems fuseblock (thanks for the recommendation, Hunner). It has a common ground and power point with space for six accessories, each with their own fuse.
We did a thorough testing of the locker - turned it on, tried to turn on asphalt and the rear tires chirped. Success!