Canadian h3t Alpha build

[Traxx]

Did you go with the 35 or 55 watt? I need to move that ballast upgrade closer to the top of the to do list.

 

[RamRod]

I did the 55 watt kit, it's hella bright but I don't know how much more than the 35 watt setup

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

So maybe I have been watching too many Hoonigan videos but I am starting a project that to my knowledge has never been done on a Hummer and in my opinion is going to be a blast when it's done, even thought I know there are some that are going to think it's a dumb idea.... the picture is a hint, I think you can figure it out for here"

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Acer4LO]

So maybe I have been watching too many Hoonigan videos but I am starting a project that to my knowledge has never been done on a Hummer and in my opinion is going to be a blast when it's done, even thought I know there are some that are going to think it's a dumb idea.... the picture is a hint, I think you can figure it out for here"

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

I like where this is going... Lol if I didn't have to focus on UCP / suspension mods I would also be doing some "experimental" mods

 

[RamRod]

This weekends project is to mount the Hydro in position so I can measure up the brake lines needed. It will end up going somewhere right around here:

Then tint the front LED side marker lights, as you can see in the pic above with the new head lights and fog lights they look very blingy and stand out. I will be using some tinting vinyl for that job so I can peel it off at any time if I choose to do so in the future.

I will also install and test out the P/N GM 15153958 bump stops on the front end as they appear to still be a progressive "spring" but are 0.5" taller than the OEM "spring"

Also, I just got notification that the re-splined 6L80E output shaft will be shipping out on Jan 26th - So now I have to start looking for a unit to rebuild and start collecting the other parts required for a 6 speed trans swap with tap up tap down enabled (I have a plan for that one using a pro-touring companies part).

Speaking of future projects, I just tracked down a set of heated leather front bucket seats & center console in a wrecked H3 for $370 for the set!! So I will be picking those up in 2 weeks when I pass through the town they are in.... However the seats wont get installed until sometime mid/late summer so don't hold your breath for that to come right away

 

[Alpha X]

This weekends project is to mount the Hydro in position so I can measure up the brake lines needed. It will end up going somewhere right around here:

Please tell me you'll be making a Hummer version of Terrakhana!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33A0zZ5qb1Y

 

[RamRod]

Please tell me you'll be making a Hummer version of Terrakhana!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33A0zZ5qb1Y

Haha we'll have to see how good it works first!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

So I pick up a set of those 15153958 bump stops mentioned in a separate thread.

They popped right in and are in fact 1/2" taller then stock.

One thing I noticed right away is that the rubber is softer (I believe the term is durometer) yet it has less of a "spring" design then our OEM units

I took it for a drive around the block and noticed that the truck seemed to feel more stable in the turns and it feels like there is less nose dive when braking.

I will update this once I get more miles done but so far I think this might be a worth while option for some.

Ps- I have a Rancho lift just for future reference

Pics:

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

Since my LED turn signals looked too blingy after I installed the dark STARR HID's I picked up some vinyl tint and darkened them a smidge.

I am very happy with the result! It only took about 15 min total

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

Put the rear diff cover back on today, getting prepped to head to Moab

The started building the Trans skid that I have put off for 4.5 years!

Added come 2x1" c channel (22" long for anyone wanting to make this in the future)
Then welded it to the Rancho aft bars. This week I will pick up a 1/4" thick plate of steel and weld it onto the bars to finish it off.. progress pics of that project:


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

Picked up the steel plate I need to finish off the trans skid, I will work on it in the evenings when there is still daylight and get it completed by the weekend hopefully.

This evening I mounted a case to my roof rack. It's Plano's version of the Pelican gun case.

But the yellow handles stood out like a sore thumb so I took care of that first:


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

Now that the handles were taken car of it was time to line things up, the case, drill some holes and finish things up!

The mounting hardware I used:
1/4" 20 carriage bolt (5)
Rubber washer (5)
1/4" Fender washers (5)
1/4" 20 nylock nut (5)

This is why I chose to make my roof rack with aluminum extrusions:

The carriage bolt slides into the t slot and allows you to cleanly mount anything along the length of the track.

Once all the holes were drilled and bolts inserted into the cross bars it was as simple as mounting in order:


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

The final look:

One thing that attracts me to this setup is the locks that are built into the latches



Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Acer4LO]

Nice job! Watch kind of stuff will you be putting in there? Reason I ask is because I need some ideas of what stuff I should put in the pelican case that I have on the rear of my gobi. Recovery gear?

 

[RamRod]

Nice job! Watch kind of stuff will you be putting in there? Reason I ask is because I need some ideas of what stuff I should put in the pelican case that I have on the rear of my gobi. Recovery gear?

I plan of carrying recovery gear & some of the lighter tools and spares up there... I will be loading it up tomorrow so I will try and grab a pick before it too dark out.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Traxx]

I have that exact same case except it has the pluck foam and a scout rifle stuck in it. It's a good solid case, I've never tested it against water leakage but still a heckuva lot cheaper than a Pellican.

 

[RamRod]

Finished the Rancho compatible Trans skid today here are some progress pics:

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Traxx]

The thing I like about your racks is that they are open and you can still wash the roof. Is the bed rack the same length as the roof? I've been pondering ordering a shorty Gobi for an H3 and fab up some mounts for the tracks on the roll cover.

 

[RamRod]

The thing I like about your racks is that they are open and you can still wash the roof. Is the bed rack the same length as the roof? I've been pondering ordering a shorty Gobi for an H3 and fab up some mounts for the tracks on the roll cover.

The total length of the bed rack is 62" (which I believe is 2.6" longer then the interior length of the box)
The total length of the roof rack is 67" (which needed the extra few inches to get the 50" LED bar far enough ahead)

I might do a production run of the racks, let me know if you are interested

 

[Hummer4ever]

The total length of the bed rack is 62" (which I believe is 2.6" longer then the interior length of the box)
The total length of the roof rack is 67" (which needed the extra few inches to get the 50" LED bar far enough ahead)

I might do a production run of the racks, let me know if you are interested

Dear, really i am so interested with your modification on your H3T. it's awesome.

by the way i have my own H3T but still it's basic i am just get an ideas from you. i am in Saudi Arabia and i try to find the Top Tent Roof "CVT" but i did not found it. but i will keep searching...

Have a good day and enjoy your time with your T

 

[RamRod]

Alright so I briefly thought about selling my T, had some offers but st the end of the day I couldn't bring myself to sell it.

So that being said the Mods will continue!!!

Then plan is to take it up to Alaska for summer 2019 and down to Baja winter 2019.

So with that in mind there are some things that will be done to make sure it's up to the task!

First things first the trans cooler will be separated from the radiator via a Mishimoto HD cooler with electric fan. I will have a temp switch on order as well, it turns on at 180°F and turns off at 160°F.

Next will be a custom tcase skid (loose the OEM skid I have currently to gain some clearance)

Then it's going to be a full upgrade to the sleeping quarters.... I sold my RTT and I have plans for something much greater.... but likely I will put that into it's own thread when the time is right....

The main thing to take away is that this build is not over!!!!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[RamRod]

So here is the big question! should I SAS my T?

I have no choice but to replace the front e-locker as I noticed some damage to the "ramp" part of the locker.

Once that is replaced I could either:

1- Rebuild the front and rear axels with 4.56's and keep on keeping on as is
2- Sell the rebuilt CI front Diff, sell the Rancho and install a solid axle

The issue with option #1 is that I have put a bunch of money into the front end already and I have surpassed the cost of doing a SAS....
The issue with Option #2 is that this would be all new to me, I can get past that, but with the 37's and the supercharged v8 I think i would need to go with an axle larger then the D44

My wife and I plan to take a trip up to Alsaka this summer, then down to Baja in the winter..... I would love to have the SAS done for piece of mind, but that is also a lot of pavement miles.... I am slightly worried about loosing the confort that the truck currently has.

I would love to hear some thoughts as I mull around the two options!

 

[SlcHummer]

For starters I have no experience here but I'll comment because 1) you're asking, 2) love your rig and kept it on my radar in case it had it was still for sale in 4-6 months and 3) I want to SAS my rig in the future as well...at least I think I do lol.

I vote for a modified version of option #2, which is SAS it and sell the CI front diff and rancho for dirt cheap to me lol. For real though, SAS it and part out the IFS stuff to re-coupe costs of the SAS. The rancho I think you could sell for $2k+, probably even $3K because people are desperate out there for a bolt on H3 lift. I too worry that SAS will lessen the ride quality, at least not without dumping alot more money into it.

Couple of questions....

1. Do you intend on doing the SAS yourself or having a shop do it?
2. Any idea what rig you'll pull the solid front axle from? I imagine that depends on if you end up needing a D44 or D60
3. What width for the front SAS do you plan on going with, stock to match rear?
4. Will it be leaf spring or multi-link? For future upgrades and increased comfort/cost I think you'd want to go with multi-link?

 

[amrg]

My brother has a 2wd Jk with 2.5" lift and it drives like any H3 on the road (minus the road noise). Offroad on the desert not as good though
My friend has a 3.5" lift and his ride is horrible.
It really narrows down to what shock/spring/swaybar combo you endup going with for ride quality. Too soft and you endup comfy but maybe allover the place, too harsh and you get alot of control but horrible ride.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[4speedfunk]

Having done several H3 SAS’s (and helping out on another dozen or so)...the SAS is definitely a total re-do. It changes the truck drastically, and you will have to compromise in a few areas. The SAS can be tuned for a wide range of use but I prefer to keep them on the mild side. Highway manners, braking, and handling remain very good, even with 5.13s and 37”s. Turning radius is less. Ride height is more. It feels more like an “80s truck”. Best of all...it does not break. When I had the IFS, I was always holding back on some of the more challenging off-road maneuvers. What the solid axle lacks in refinement, it makes up for in durability. Regardless...two constants still remain:

1. Everything is a compromise.
2. Anything can be broken.

Unless you are doing serious off-roading, it’s hard to justify the SAS. Here's an example of what I'm talking about (don't try this with an IFS)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEi78C9QJVM&feature=youtu.be