• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Anyone Running 1" Wheel Spacers?

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
761
Location
Illinois
Anyone here running 1in wheel spacers? Yeah I know wheel spacers aren't the greatest thing, but my new toyo 38x13.50x18s rub against the upper control arm w/no spacer so I need to space them out. Already have 1.25in spacers on the H3 since my 295 nitto terra grapperlers were rubbing on the control arms too but they don't work quite work for the big 38s. The problem begins when you turn the steering wheel. The 38 begins to rub up against the inside of the wheel well / fender w/ the 1.25 spacer and you can't turn the wheel all the way. I will include pics below of this. So that leads me to my question... anyone running 1" spacers? I am hoping that by gaining that 0.25" will give it just enough to clear. I did some searching and they don't seem to be a common choice for H3s. I know you can can just buy any old 6x5.5 spacer, but I want to make sure the orignal wheel studs do not stick out and hit the wheel when the spacer is on. If anyone can confirm they fit, what do you guys think of BORA spacers? Thinking of going with them since they actually sell a 1in spacer. I think this is my final option to make these fit before having to break out the sawzall. The H3 already has the rancho + daystar body lift so I don't think I can lift it any more without doing soa+sas.


Turning the wheel to the left w/ 1.25 spacer.
i-sWPWpjg-X4.jpg


i-CB676vq-X4.jpg
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
2 inch body lift may solve it

From the looks of it 1" spacer wont fix it, the point of contact os still very close. Its either raise the body more or start trimming that fender.
 
Last edited:

kilroy

Well-Known Member
Messages
110
Location
Owosso MI
A wheel spacer is only going to push the wheel further out and that edge of the tire will hit the fender hard from the looks of your pic.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
It's not going to do any good. It makes contact now sitting still, what happens when your suspension cycles? If it's just a trail rig then cut the fender, trim and pinch seam back, otherwise without more lift those tires are simply too big.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Just curious what that wheel tire combo weighs per corner? I know those 38 MT's are around 92-95lbs just for the tire. If it was me I would just go straight to the sas, you will need the stronger diff with that setup unless you enjoy replacing cv's and differentials.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
761
Location
Illinois
2 inch body lift may solve it

From the looks of it 1" spacer wont fix it, the point of contact os still very close. Its either raise the body more or start trimming that fender.

I did do some research into a 2in body lift, but I just don’t like the idea. For one, you have to find and buy all the materials yourself, then see if they work. I know that isn’t that bad, but what I am really concerned about is possibility putting too much tension on wires or components of the truck that are now split farther apart then they were ever designed too. Pretty sure if I did a 2in body lift I would have to fix/readjust/modify something, weather it be the steering wheel, gear shifter, engine lines, or just wires. What I really like about the daystar kit is that everything is already done for you. The kit tells you all the components that will be affected, which is only the fan shroud and gives you all the parts you need to bolt on. I will update my build thread soon with pics from my install.


A wheel spacer is only going to push the wheel further out and that edge of the tire will hit the fender hard from the looks of your pic.

Yes I am aware. I have 1.25in spacers now and they just barely clear with some rub as you can see from the pics.

It's not going to do any good. It makes contact now sitting still, what happens when your suspension cycles? If it's just a trail rig then cut the fender, trim and pinch seam back, otherwise without more lift those tires are simply too big.

Yeah that was going to be my next problem. To be honest I don’t have a lot of upwards travel with the IFS. Since I have rancho, part of the lift kit includes extended bumpstops which are already hitting the lower A-Arm so upwards travel is very limited. Also yes, my Alpha is just a trail rig that I some times driving to work when its not torn apart in my garage. I don’t mind doing some cutting, but I don’t want this thing to look getto. Also will be going with a SAS soon, so not even sure I will need that extra room.

I broke an outer CV crawling up a rock on 35's at idle last week.

38's are going to break axles/CV's up front if you look at them wrong.

Haha I am well aware that 38s with the IFS will suck. Already have a brand new pair of Cardones ready to go. I am also trying to find some rear axle shafts too. As of right now I don’t do any rock crawling since there are no where to go with a lot of rocks in Illinois. Check page 5 of my build thread and scroll down to “July Wheeling” to see the stuff I usually wheel in. Mostly slippery mud, dirt, easy hills, stuff like that. Hopefully will be doing a SAS soon.

Just curious what that wheel tire combo weighs per corner? I know those 38 MT's are around 92-95lbs just for the tire. If it was me I would just go straight to the sas, you will need the stronger diff with that setup unless you enjoy replacing cv's and differentials.

Each tire + wheel combo weights 127lbs.
Yep I am seriously looking into what I need to do a SAS. Kind of want to do what Panzer07 did with his rig since it its pretty easy to start with. Thinking of keeping the rear GM 10 bolt, maybe trussing it like the Aussie Rig and then getting a D44 for the front or something similar. Reason why is because I want to keep the 6x5.5 since that’s what pattern my trail ready beadlocks which on the toyo tires. If you missed my post on my build thread I got a hyper good deal on 5 of these wheel/tire combo from craigslist. I knew when I bought these that they were going to be a challenge to fit, but I am up for it! I would absolutely love to do the type of stuff that Chris (06H3) did to his H3 with beefy 8 lug axles but to be honest that would be out of my budget right now and experience level.
 

humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
If you’re worried about the consequences of all the other possible solutions, you can start chopping. Won’t cost you much.

008b984e469e0641ce97634aed481773.png






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
One member had this done before to clear 37s with rancho spec backspacedwheels. He only had a 1" body lift.
86aa63bd0944cd9cbdd0cbe51f1ea79d.jpg
39dff07759f7b4b6492973e0b1c7b0f7.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
761
Location
Illinois
One member had this done before to clear 37s with rancho spec backspacedwheels. He only had a 1" body lift.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Haha I know this rig. It's NCH3's Alpha. I think he just sold it. To be honest that dosen't look that bad. I didn't even notice it until now and I can usally tell if somethings been modifed on a H3.

NC H3.jpeg
 

humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
I’ll be wanting bigger tires soon as well, only have a 1” lift and slight crank. Let us know how it works out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top