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bolt it up, then connect the electrical plugs and linkage (or shifter).

well, it's been a year since the viscosity swap (Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic). it burns more now than it was during my last post. bought the truck in Nov '19 with 103k, and from then until a couple years ago (at 140k miles), it only burned a normal quart of 5w30 (usually a high-mileage syn...

our Russell speed bleeders have been good for the last 2-1/2 years.

PS: you have to blow from the engine bay forward... otherwise, you're just lodging everything further into the fins.

i'd try cleaning first. used my air compressor & extendo wand to blow this out of ours last week - likely over a decade's worth of crap between the radiator & condensor. clutch fan works a lot less now.

PS: Am I the only one who don't see the point of these aftermarket 3.5" or 4" intake tubes? Everything I've found on the market still necks down to the stock 2.5" MAF tube... so you still end up with the same bottleneck. Sure, changing the MAF tube size requires recalibration... but most...

Mucho apologize-o if I misunderstood the original comments Exodus made about engine appearance. Rather than referencing minor differences in fluid tanks, airbox, etc... it appeared as if he was saying this 2006 3.5 looks drastically different than this 2008 3.7 (...neither of which look like...

i think the point was that with the heavier wheel/tire setup, you'd be better off & have more usable power by keeping 4.56s.

vibrations from the wind speed (worse with a headwind). our 09 does it, too

valid points - except that auto or manual doesn't matter. unlocking the torque converter is just a precursor to downshifting if the vehicle has an auto. what i meant about how downshifting is not an accurate measure of power is that both my car and truck make plenty more power than necessary...

the biggest difference is that an automatic WILL downshift when it needs to whether you ask it to or not. also, this whole side-bar was simply meant to show that there are more reasons to downshift than just because you ain't got enough power. H3s ain't got enough power - that's true... but...

apologies if references to "downshifting to 4th" didn't solidify that ours is a 5speed... of which, there were no 5speed automatics. and H3s did have a higher percentage of manuals than most other models, so i wouldn't consider it that rare (except H3Ts... those were pretty rare). either way...

we reminded ourselves how much the H3 hates climbing hills with a trailer. wife & i were helping some of her friends move across town, and she wanted another practice session to get comfortable towing. did alright until we got home & she tried backing it into our driveway / trailer pad around...

i just installed some bilstein 4600s (blue/yellow... also called HD) and am happy enough with them. if we've still got the truck by the time these wear out, i'd do 5100s instead. they're nearly the same but valved slightly stiffer to give the same effective rates as the 4600s (stock suspension)...

ain't sure... i understand the guy might've had an account on here at one point, but the most info i've found regarding his build/process is a handful of youtube & facebook comments. i ain't got an account on either of those (and am unwilling to fork over the mountains of personal data they...

oh dang... decisions, decisions. aside from the wiring (which is obviously important), that's tempting because we'd also want to swap to Alpha torsion bars & maybe snag a handful of other miscellaneous body/interior touch-up items. all depends on how committed the wife is to keeping her 180k...

ps (to circle back to the OP's topic): a cold air intake and/or resonator box delete won't create enough of a power bump to alleviate the need to downshift up a significant hill... which is what started the whole side-track.

downshifting (and the reasons to do it) apply to both automatics and manuals. the only difference is in how that action is accomplished. i ain't so retarded as to conflate the AR5 and the 4L60 - both of which were factory-installed in H3s.

^^hmm... i'm trying to get hired for a position in omaha within the next year. i might have to hit you up & see if you've still got that LH8. that is, if we don't sell the H3 here (better market in the black hills than down there).

dang. i'm still on the fence about trying to be the #2 v8 manual H3... but the LH8 is the only motor we're interested in for many of them reasons: nose weight, DoD/AFM, and not having to separately find the LH8 exhaust/oil pan being the biggest ones.