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THORparts transfer case mods (part 1)....

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,156
Location
Tardville
I got another cool mod I wanted to share with fellow H4Or's.

Like many of you, I had a t-case failure (42,000 miles) and like so many other parts on the H3...I am starting to see a "pattern" of failures. There are certain parts on the H3 fail in a predictable and repeatable manner, and you don't really notice them individually...unless you work on a bunch of them. I work on a bunch of them!...and my latest discovery has to do with the H3 transfer case. Many of us complain about "chain slap", and we typically replace a stretched chain with a new one, and we're good for another (pray) 30,000 miles or so. But some of us have other issues, and I want to talk about a part inside the BW3393/3394 called the "snubber".

This part is a small rectangular aluminum platform with a nylon rub pad bonded to it. It is supposed to quench the chain slap that occurs when you get on & off the throttle. It gets bolted to the inside of the case via two horrendously under-sized bolts. I've noticed that when I disassemble a t-case...the snubber is loose inside the case and flopping around everywhere...destroying the internal parts. Here's the one out of mine (left) and the identical part out of 08H3's (right)...
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The big question I have is: HOW ARE THESE GETTING LOOSE INSIDE THE T-CASE? Well, the answer has to do with the small M6 fasteners that thread into two bosses inside the housing. On both occasions, the screws had pulled out of the threaded holes which releases the snubber into the whirling chaos inside the t-case. There are two small towers that the snubber bolts to, and the holes are often stripped. Once the snubber is loose, it gets munched up by the other parts...its soft aluminum, so there is usually no other damage. The loose snubber often gets sucked into the sprocket/chain assembly, and this immediately stretches the chain in a split second. So...my theory is that sometimes, a loose snubber is what stretches the chain. To combat this, I drill & tap the towers and install much larger 1/4"-20 studs into them. Then I attach a new snubber with larger 1/4"-20 nylon lock-nuts.
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I start by drilling the original holes with a .201" bit. Then I begin tapping with a standard tapered cut (makes a better cut). Once I hit the bottom, I switch to a bottoming tap and this cleans up the threads and makes them good & tight all the way down. Then I install some grade-8 1/4"-20 studs with high-temp loc-tite. Use set screws if you can find em. If not, just use standard bolts and run em in tight, then cut-off the excess after you're done...
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Obviously, you want to protect the bearings while doing all this, and blow out all the metal shavings with compressed air when you get done. I'm limited to ten pics, so check part two for the continuation.
 

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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,156
Location
Tardville
THORparts transfer case mods (part 2)...

...Once you get the studs installed. Dress the ends of them with a hand file, to make starting the nuts easier. Then plop your new snubber into place and tighten everything down (with more high-temp loc-tite). You might have to enlarge the holes on the snubber. It looks like this when you get done. Much improved over the old one! Finish off the rebuild with a new chain...
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Now...a couple comments about chain damage. If the snubber decided to break free, it will destroy the chain. Not only that...it grind away at the towers, which are normally protected by the snubber's rub plate. Sometimes the grinding is so bad...there is only half of towers remaining. If this is the case...break out the J-B Weld and build-up the missing part of the towers. Like this..
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Its hard to say which happens first....the snubber breaking free, or the chain getting stretched. Regardless...the snubber mounting bolts are a joke, and the new 1/4"-20 studs will keep it in place, and hopefully make things last a tad longer.

Happy Wrenching!
 

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SedonaBound

Well-Known Member
Messages
743
Location
N AZ
Outstanding idea. Since we don't have "stickies" you should post a link to this in the Tech Section.
 

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
Nice! Something I've found that helps when cutting a threaded fastener is to first put a nut on it. Then cut it, and then thread the nut off of it. This works great to open up the threads after cutting it.
 

H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
Fun fact, the 06 adventure T-case does not have this part. I just happen to have my case open, and there are no mounting holes in the back half of the case for this part.
 
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08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,219
Location
United States
So do you think the snubber being free range in the transfer case has any potential to cause any more damage beyond a stretched chain? Makes me wonder whether I should have you do the stud mod on my new T-Case at 50K or so as insurance. If both of us have had identical issues, it really makes me wonder how many other H3s have the snubber floating around in there and have just been lucky enough not to have it gobbled up by the chain/sprocket yet.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,156
Location
Tardville
Both of these t-cases are 08-AP versions. It would not surprise me that the snubber was an afterthought on 07-later cases.

08H3...absolutely. I'm not sure I would tear apart a brand new one but, certainly if I had it out for inspection or servicing...I would do the stud upgrade before the snubber gets loose and does more damage. After hearing from H3Slate...it makes me wonder if its even worth having the snubber? After all...if there is no snubber....then there is no chance of it getting loose!
 

Guerrero

Well-Known Member
Messages
121
Location
Spain
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but is super interesting the discover from 4speedfunk

I have a 2008 H3 alpha (non adventure TCase) with 147000 miles, I use it a lot in offroad and I am noticing a slap in transfer case each time I depress and press the throttle. I want to replace the chain inside the Tcase and saw some years ago about this Snubber plate.

My H3 alpha maybe doesnt have the snubber plate, is that something that I need to check when I'll open it soon...my question is:

-Snubber plate part number is discontinued, no more longer avaliable for purchase, so what options we have now? Better remove the snubber plate and leave it as 2006 H3s transfer cases?

-Do it really do any difference having the snubber plate or not?

-About the mod of mounting bigger studs...what happen between the Magnesium material of the case and the steel material of the stud? They cant be mixed, right?


Hope this helps for others in my situation after the snubber plate being discontinued

Thanks! Guerrero
 

lfootmatt

Well-Known Member
Messages
81
Location
AZ
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but is super interesting the discover from 4speedfunk

I have a 2008 H3 alpha (non adventure TCase) with 147000 miles, I use it a lot in offroad and I am noticing a slap in transfer case each time I depress and press the throttle. I want to replace the chain inside the Tcase and saw some years ago about this Snubber plate.

My H3 alpha maybe doesnt have the snubber plate, is that something that I need to check when I'll open it soon...my question is:

-Snubber plate part number is discontinued, no more longer avaliable for purchase, so what options we have now? Better remove the snubber plate and leave it as 2006 H3s transfer cases?

-Do it really do any difference having the snubber plate or not?

-About the mod of mounting bigger studs...what happen between the Magnesium material of the case and the steel material of the stud? They cant be mixed, right?


Hope this helps for others in my situation after the snubber plate being discontinued

Thanks! Guerrero
Hey all,

I also have an 08 H3 Alpha, 125,000 miles with an unexplained knocking/clunking from the start or slow roll with acceleration. Described as thunk think thunk thunk... Described as sounding exactly like a bad CV joint.
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What does said T-Case slap sound like. We've ruled out everything north of the transfer case.

That said, noise went away with the front driveshaft removed.

My son has it in Lawrence, Kansas. I'm flying back Saturday and driving it to Phoenix, AZ.

He got a brand new truck after winning a Natty! So he's giving this H3 to his little brother.

Thanks,

Matt
 
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