Need exhaust manifold, which??

Also Posted on "Ask Mike"My catalytic converter separated from my exhaust manifold.(2006, H3, 140,00 miles, drove hard off rode) Think I know why. I raised my body 1 inch with hockey pucks. Realize now thisraises the exhaust manifold but NOT the exhaust tubing. Puts stress on themanifold at the seam of the catalytic converter which is all welded togetherwithin the manifold. (If you use a body lift you need to raise your exhausthangers!!) Thought I was going to get a new manifold immediately but my 10 yearold rode in the hummer and said, “Wow dad, this really sounds good. What didyou do?” I explained and he said I should just leave it this way. Well, knowlong term I can’t do that but thought I would spend more time researching andshare here. Doing a search found no posts on different brands. Did find a post with a pic on the excact thing that happened to me but no follow up on what he replaced with. My gut says to go with the Magnaflow

How does the exhaust manifold attach to the body?

I'm not seeing it.

Am guessing it doesn't, but it attaches to the exhaust which in turn attaches to the hangers which attach to the body. Ergo, lift the body, lengthen the hangers, otherwise it tweaks the exhaust putting pressure on the exhaust/ exhaust manifold joint?

About 6 inches after the lower joint there is a hanger that attaches to the frame. BUT Gunner, now you got me thinking. Raising the body does NOT raise the engine (manifold) and if the hangers are attached to the crossbeams (frame) then this should NOT be a problem.??? But in the pic the shinning can part is the catalytic converter. The sensor is on the backside. Mine separated at the lower can looking part and the pipe that just starts to bend. I tried to find the pic that already on the forum but now can't fine it. Tomorrow I will take pics and I am going to remove the lower connection and remove the lower portion of the manifold that has seperated. (Looking at the pic is a hole that looks like for the sensor. But I know the sensor is on the inside)

This may explain some of the weird rattles I am getting in my exhaust. Looks like a trip is in order to see my buddy and diagnose. My exhaust is all tweaked anyways from all the rocks that have hit it on the trails.

Exhaust shouldn't be affected from a body lift. Things that run from the body to frame will...such as wires and linkages.

The motor is mounted to the frame and so is every exhaust hanger. That means you can body lift the truck infinitely and exhaust should never be an issue. It may just be that the truck is getting old and if you wheel you could of tweaked something.

I will go under my 3 to confirm all hangers are welded to the frame. If so they it's not a body lift issue

Are these prices for an 06? I'm seeing higher prices, and less choices, when I go to autopartswarehouse.com

Well, since it's taken Chris 30 minutes to do this 60 second task , I thought I'd post up and confirm that the hangars are welded to the frame and not the body.

alrock said:

Well, since it's taken Chris 30 minutes to do this 60 second task , I thought I'd post up and confirm that the hangars are welded to the frame and not the body.

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He probably had to grab the grease gun first. You know how that goes

alrock said:

Are these prices for an 06? I'm seeing higher prices, and less choices, when I go to autopartswarehouse.com

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Yes try catalytic converter. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...hgroup=UGS&tahrank=95363608&tahscore=5.872155

I'd try the magnaflow, looks like a tube header with cat for OBDII

telemike said:

I'd try the magnaflow, looks like a tube header with cat for OBDII

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I agree, if i ever need a new manifold ill be going with the magnaflow. I use their products on my mustang.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

alrock said:

Well, since it's taken Chris 30 minutes to do this 60 second task , I thought I'd post up and confirm that the hangars are welded to the frame and not the body.

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Zach said:

He probably had to grab the grease gun first. You know how that goes

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sorry guys, got so carried away with the grease gun I forgot to write back...

06 H3 said:

sorry guys, got so carried away with the grease gun I forgot to write back...

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Damn! It's been a day! How many tubes did you go through. The little soldier must be tired of raw. Lmao

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_COL-headers-Shorty_5-Cyl.html

Good to see other options. That one solves the catalytic converter expense by dumping it altogether. Find this interesting too: On the 2007 and newer trucks (with the 3.7 engine), the header requires lengthening wires to both Oxygen sensors, and welding the bung for the second Oxygen sensor behind the second catalytic converter. At this time, we don't know if this will prevent the check engine light from coming on.

I'm not ready to mess with emissions like that. One of y'all can gamble the $350

cbetts said:

This may explain some of the weird rattles I am getting in my exhaust. Looks like a trip is in order to see my buddy and diagnose. My exhaust is all tweaked anyways from all the rocks that have hit it on the trails.

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I have recently got some weird rattles in my exhaust../Do you think it may be the cat starting to go out?

I'm hoping to afford the OTT header as it's 304SS and not mild steel.

http://www.ottperformance.com/store/pc/I5-Colorado-Canyon-Stock-Replacement-Header-298p1361.htm

http://www.mesablackworks.com/hummer,h3,headers

I never heard any noise at all from my exhaust. then all of a sudden it just made a knocking noise and i lost all back pressure and it was loud as hell. no warning signs at least for me. I got under the hood and could see straight down into my CAT. It took a second to comprehend what just happened. After pulling the old header out i also found a 270 degree crack around the back part of the header that comes out of the engine. (sorry for the lack of knowledge on what that part is called)

alrock said:

Good to see other options. That one solves the catalytic converter expense by dumping it altogether. Find this interesting too: On the 2007 and newer trucks (with the 3.7 engine), the header requires lengthening wires to both Oxygen sensors, and welding the bung for the second Oxygen sensor behind the second catalytic converter. At this time, we don't know if this will prevent the check engine light from coming on.

I'm not ready to mess with emissions like that. One of y'all can gamble the $350

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To avoid the CEL a "non fouler" can do the trick.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-to-Remove-CEL-for-Test-Pipe-or-High-Flow-Cat

http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-performance-maintenance/20061-how-2nd-cat-delete-under-25-a.html

I am having o2 sensor issues right now. I had my original in for 8 years about 110k miles. I get a P0141 which is the 2nd o2 sensor. I change it with one from orielly. Code is gone everything is good, 3 months later the POS goes out and I get a P0141 yet again. I contact Zach telling him what happened and told me he wasnt surprised. So I get an OEM one to his recommendation as they will last years to come. I go to pull it out expecting a 5min swap like the OEM 8 year old one but nope. Its stuck on there only after a few months. I used anti seize on it but am not sure if the antiseize provided was crap. Heat it up, etc it wont come off. Now it strips, Its still on...Now I will have to pull the whole pipe out (the mid pipe) I hope its easy, 2 flanges and its off but im sure something will interfere. So while I have it out I was gonna ditch the 2nd cat and try to move the o2 sensor. I came across the "non fouler mod" during research.

Now I hear a little rattle in my exhaust. I wonder if the cat is starting to go out. At this point I am ready to ditch both cats, put in non foulers on the o2 sensors. No CELs and no issues but read the 3.5 loses some low end and gains mid to high power ditching the second cat. Offroaders dont want that!!!

Anyways, long rant on the "non fouler" but anyone looking to get those headers can add one to avoid the CEL.